Jump to content

mints53

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About mints53

Recent Profile Visitors

112 profile views
  1. Hi All: I've finished this head gasket change now and been out for a test run today, everything looks good. The head was skimmed valves lapped in etc. The engine is running much sweeter, exhaust is clean. I'll get a few miles on it and recheck the head stud torques, but touch wood it's good. Thanks for all the advice
  2. I've just got back from dropping the head off for a skim, I agree with all your comments, it is a no brainer really. And the less distinct gasket impression is indeed between 3 & 4 so hopefully it should be all good. Cheers
  3. Hi all: I've checked the head for flatness now, the worst case is a depression of 0.04mm between cyls 3 & 4. I can't get a 0.03mm feeler (my thinnest) in anywhere around the liner seal area. Is this OK or do I need it skimming? Thanks for any info on this Mints53
  4. Hi Roger: That's my thinking as well, I can't see any obvious cause of a head gasket failure - only on one cylinder a less distinct ring where it sat on the liner. Interestingly the head has had inserts for the exhaust valve seats fitted so it has been off before. Not in my time and not by the previous owner, that would be no later than yr 2000. Mints53 P.S the names Andy and I am located in north Bucks
  5. Hi all. It's good to know that the new heads from Moss have been around a while, I'm impressed they have sold 700 of them. That is certainly an option for me then. I have got my head home now, they detected a crack around no 4 spark plug, actually I could have told them that. There has always been a bit of coolant seapage there since I bought the car 12 years ago, never enough to result in any noticable coolant loss though. In a way I am encouraged that no other cracks were found. I've cleaned the area up now including inside the combustion chamber, no cracks are visible, but maybe they are too small or open up when hot. The dilemma I now have is, whether to put the head back on with a new gasket etc and hope that will fix the coolant pressurising problem and the crack issue was just a red herring, or get a new one from Moss. Thanks again for all the advice Mints53
  6. Hi All: Thanks for all your replies. The head has been condemned by a TR specialist, I've not used them before but have no reason to doubt their verdict. I'm picking it up tomorrow and will have a good look when I get it back, I'll certainly be investigating a repair in the first instance indeed, Fraser Brown Engineering will probably be my first port of call. I've checked the liner heights and they look pretty good to me, although I've only used a straight edge and feeler gauge, I am measuring about 0.0035 ( a tight 4 thou and loose 3 thou) all round and across all 4 cylinders. How does that sound? It's good to know there is at least a solution with a new one from Moss although at considerable cost. I have even been looking at their aluminium ones, having done my back in lifting the old one off, a lighter version looks attractive. Thanks again. Mints 53
  7. Hi all I've taken the head off now and taken it to be checked, just had the bad news, it's cracked and been scrapped. I haven't seen it myself so don't know where the crack is but is there any experience out there of a possible repair? I'm currently also looking into alternatives, either a second hand good one (anyone got one for sale?) or one of the new ones that Moss sell ( does anyone have experience of these?) All suggestions are welcome Mints53
  8. It looks like I am going to have to pull the head off. I've tried the retorqueing process and retested with similar results. This is what I did Drained the coolant Went over the head nuts starting from the inside and working out, backing off about 1/8 turn and pulling down to 105lbft. There might have been some additional movement but it was small Refill with fresh coolant and retest. Can anyone see a flaw in my method? The next question is what does the forum recommend for a head gasket. Thanks
  9. Thanks for the replies I must say I am pleased that there maybe a fix not involving taking the head off. I don't have a lot of time at the moment and was hoping to be driving the car across for a trip to France in March. I'll let the Forum know how I get on. Mints 53
  10. Some advice is needed. The last couple of times I have been out in my 4A (about a 20 mile run) I got back and found foam coming out of the expansion bottle with some coolant loss when checked after it had cooled down. Other than that there are no other symptoms - overheating, foam in the oil etc. A worrying sign of possible head gasket problems I thought. I bought a test kit - the type with the fluid that changes colour and have just done a test that shows clearly the presence of combustion products in the radiator. So how likely is it that I will get away with just a head gasket job, possibly skimming the head. Naturally I'd refurb the head at the same time. I am concerned about disturbing the liners are there any special measures I need to take? Also when I have done this job on other cars I get the head dipped to clean it up, is this OK on a TR head? Should I also fit new valves and springs or is it best to stick with what Triumph fitted given the questionable quality of some modern replacement parts. I'm expecting a battle to remove the head any tips to help this would be appreciated Of course everything depends on what I find when I get the head off Thanks for any advice before I start this job.
  11. Hi All I have recently arrived home after a couple of thousand mile trip in my 4a. All went well but a couple of improvements were revealed as desirable. The dynamo output is only marginal. It struggled when I was stuck in traffic in the rain at night and then the kenlow cut in. I would like to convert to an alternator; any tips and words of advice in doing this? I suffer with a whining diff which on short trips with the top down is not a problem. It becomes somewhat tiring after a couple of hrs cruising at 70mph. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to go to get it rebuilt or replaced with an exchange unit. I am based in the UK (Bucks) Thanks Andy
  12. Hi Glynn: I'll be there also we have been going now for many years I always enjoy it although it has got very busy in recent years. I get to Angouleme on Thursday evening - the whole build up to the event as cars start to arrive is great. At the moment I am planning to drive from the UK in my TR4 I just have to get a working handbrake. We've also done the Saturday rally a number of times in my Vitesse (the comfy wagon when my Mrs is with me) or the TR (when I'm alone). I'm in the cathedral grandstand as well, look out for me I'll be wearing a red Grand Prix de Bressuire base ball cap - have you ever done that event it's totally insane but good fun, no MSA rules there. Cheers Andy
  13. mints53

    TR GOLD

    I would like to say at the outset that I support the idea for a quality certification scheme; I have personal experience of problems resulting from poor quality parts. Indeed I would willingly pay a considerable premium to be sure that I will not have to pay the cost of a breakdown or early failure. However I have some comments and suggestions on what is being proposed. The Platinum, Gold and Silver levels strike me as over complicated. I can see some difficulties making judgements especially at the margins e.g. when does a silver get promoted to gold? Better, I think in the first instance to stay with a single Gold category indicating that a component is at least as good as the original. Some sort of policy will be needed regarding the old question of originality. To what degree will it be permissible to ‘improve’ on the original design in order to enhance the reliability or function of a part but still be able to enter it for classification? Careful consideration needs to be given to the degree that the Register is endorsing a component. I am sure that liability in the event of failure of a safety critical part in not something that the Register wants. How will acceptability of a part be judged? Perhaps one of the requirements for certification should be the submission of a technical document for the part. This would give details of the application of the component, material used, manufacturing method, heat treatment etc. The idea being to focus the mind a little on the engineering of the component rather than it just looking somewhat similar to the original. That said, we should avoid this becoming an onerous activity I certainly do not envisage it being akin to an aerospace like traceability process, in the end we need the support of the supplier base for this to work. It’s a matter of finding a balance. I hope this is a useful input to the debate Andy
  14. I've finished this job now - magic, the engine runs sweetly and quietly, no oil leaks yet apparent. I wonder now how many other niggling issues could be down to this. For example I seemed to be forever having to muck around with the ignition timing, I would think I had got it spot on and then a few days later find that it seemed to be different. I guess this would have a knock on effect to the general running and especially the idling which now is much smoother, I have been searching for air leaks on the induction side and and looking at carb adjustments to improve this aspect for ages. Thanks for all the advice Andy
  15. I've got a seal,and tensioner on order from Moss and am also taking the plunge and converting to the narrow belt, alloy pulley kit from them as well. Any tips and advice when I come to fit this? Thanks Andy
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.