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  1. Just north of Birmingham in Sutton Coldfield, if anyone is willing to help it would be most appreciated! Plus would be nice to get to know some Triumph owners in the area as I often see a couple rolling round. And yes I believe it is the throttle butterflies as they were ultrasonic cleaned so they have lost all the coke that sealed them before. I might plug up the plenum, and then use the idle bleed to set the rpm just for the tuning purposes as I believe the butterflies could be interfering.
  2. I also suspect a leak in the induction path. Tomorrow I will start it up and put my hand over the intake plenum thingymajig to see if it will idle properly, I reckon the butterflies might be letting in some excess air so if I can cut off everything before the bleed screw that should confirm suspicions.
  3. Hi Chris, Since the cam was fitted it has run properly with one exception, that it idled very fast. How would you suggest checking valve timing, is it a rocker off, and hand turn the crank and check what angle a valve opens at? If so I'm sure I can manage that. As for the fuel pump, I have no idea how I would test the pressure at higher revs, is there an agreed upon way to do this? Sam
  4. AH YES! I knew I had forgotten something. Right, it's the Injection Model bit more: Standard Injection Chassis Code begins with CR17 Lucas Distributor 41501 B Fast Road Cam (supposed to give 180bhp, hilarious!) All else is pretty bone stock
  5. Hi all, So I have made a weekend trip back home and my dad asked me to take a look at his 6 as it wasn't starting properly. He had adjusted the timing just so the car would start so he could get it back in the garage before the winter hit and since then not much has happened. It has recently had a rebuild but immediately after that it was idling high (around 1600rpm) and I think that is too high even with a fast road camshaft (is that correct?). I took it for a drive today and took my trusty timing strobe gun and my backup light bulb with two bits of wire to try and sort the timing
  6. If it is done by CTM, for the hour or two it would take me to cut some appropriate sized inch box and weld it in, I will do it.
  7. I haven't, but the chassis is still semi separate from the body so I might do that if anyone else thinks it is a worthy addition.
  8. Hi everyone, Right, after lifting the rear off the floors, it was clear the B post was being pressed upwards. What had happened is that the sill was a different shape from the original. Having fixed that, the body now lines up pretty well. Thank you all for the help, Sam.
  9. I am, I will be there Friday evening to Sunday morning. I am pretty certain the chassis is straight, I rebuilt it a few months ago and made sure it was square and matched the measurements on the diagram. I also left the body alone whilst doing the chassis and it slotted back onto it pretty neatly without too much fiddling. Also, Len, I thank you in advance for any help you give. Sam
  10. Thank you very much Len, this matches what the TR4A gave too, it appears my B posts have been moved. Further inspection shows that there is alot of patched over panels near the B posts which could explain it! I would hate to be a burden so if this is not possible please say so, but would it be possible to ask you for further measurements if I need them? This would help me a lot in terms of alignment as it does appear my body has been twisted about a bit. Sam
  11. I understand this is a difficult subject, however this bit should be easy! If anyone has a TR6 that they consider to have 'decent' body alignment, would it be possible to get a measurement between the very top of the B post (technically the front of the deck) such as shown in the two photos? I have compared them to my fathers TR4A and mine are about 1cm out, but that might be a model difference. Going from the inner face to inner face my measurement (as seen in the photo) is 1124mm Hopefully someone can give me something completely different so I can be certain this is wr
  12. Hi all. This will likely be a lengthy post, so here is a quick scope of the post before I start to ramble on: I am restoring my TR6, and have panels temporarily held in place by screws (no permanent welds as of yet). I am here to ask for your opinions, experiences and warnings when it comes to making sure the body is aligned before I start welding. This post will have pictures to explain my questions and I will be checking this every 10 minutes or so whilst working on the car, if you need more information please ask as I have the car next to me and can easily take measurements, picture
  13. Right! It appears the problem must have been the jets! I swapped them straight out, sucked some fuel through with a few cranks and it started first time! For an engine that old that has been locked in a barn for years I was shocked at how well it ran! I will now start tuning using the advice from you guys. Thanks, Sam.
  14. Hi Rob, For the purposes of starting I am manually controlling the choke from the engine bay so I can see the jets are both able to go fully down and fully up. I will then tune the choke appropriately when the car is running nicely. Sam.
  15. I have driven to David Manners and they were very kind to exchange the jets for the correct part number. The only visible difference was a slight ring cut near the top of the jet. The carbs are AUD209 so the jets now fit the carb as they should. And I agree with 4 ° BTDC for static timing. Thanks, Sam.
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