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About BarryC

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  1. Worth also giving Gary at TR Bitz a call -near to you, Warrington.
  2. Why not phone Darryl Uprichard at Racetorations. Details on website etc
  3. I had this issue also. Also check the following. I thought it was the spring loaded bush as it was inserted 'upside down' - corrected but the problem continued. Found that that the Boss of the Moto Lita wheel (when a slight side movement/ pressure occurred) touched the brass ring creating an unintended circuit. Cured (as Roger's observation) by removing the (s/wheel &) Boss and carefully filing the base of the (alloy) Boss to fractionally reduce the depth (the reduction is still not visible at the switch cowling/ cover) gradually until no contact occurs. Before removal of the Boss, mark th
  4. Thanks Blue ..............very useful information. I have tried the 'countersunk screw' flare version on a spare grommet - and hex bolt (to full compression) (off the bonnet). Looks good so will follow that version - in situ. Any advise on Item 1. ? For general info. I am located in the northern East Midlands. Thanks again.
  5. One of the 'Half Grommets' on the DZUS bonnet locks on my 3A has disintigrated. Bonnet in-situ. Would you please advise the best procedure (and to avoid adjacent paint damage) to :- 1. Remove the (now) flat/ compressed (old) Securing Washer - to enable the fastner & remains of the half grommet to fall away, 2. Compress [how ?] the new (aluminium ?) Half Grommet - in-situ with the 'wobbly' (held only by the 'stay') bonnet. I assume the open/ lower end of the half grommet requires to be initially 'flared' to avoid 'folding' prior to/ during compressing, 3. Compress the
  6. Apologies for the delay. Solution eventually tracked down and rectified. I read somewhere that sometimes Moto- Lita wheel hub can occasionally touch the horn ring, thus creating a circuit. This was the case with mine. Solution, as advised, was to file a small amount off the base of the 'hub. Now works without involuntary interruption - brass down on the 'pencil bush'. Thanks again for your interest.
  7. Apologies for the delay in replying. Thanks for all your responses and assistance. After much circuit testing, bi-passing cables, switch etc., trying new flasher unit, always came back to front nearside area. Notwithstanding much cleaning of connections again, a piece of the 'live' (green /red) bullet multi connection fell out !!!. Badly corroded between the rear (hidden) face of the metal retainer and plastic surround, and partly fell apart. New connector cured the issue. Changed all others to new.
  8. The following issue has occurred with the indicators ('73 CR PI)). Indicators worked correctly a few days ago. Now .... 1. When operated, Indicator (column) switch to left, I noticed the nearside (left) indicators (front, side & back) stayed on - not flashing. with the switch then to right the offside (right) indicators flashed correctly. Dash turn indicator light stayed illuminated (lit but not flashing) 2. I checked both (sides) of the front (inner bonnet/ hood) wiring connections that none were loose etc. , especially as i had done other work in both that area - and
  9. Thanks for the response John & Mike. The 'pencil' has an outer plastic sleeve insulator. On fitting I need to check that there is not much side movement when in spring compression (with the ring and horn push connector arm) since there is no other insulator in the wheel hub hole for the 'pencil; and the hole diameter is a bit larger. If so, may be worth my adding additional insulation to the hole itself as a matter of course, and to limit potential side movement of the pencil connector. Graphite grease tip noted.
  10. Thanks Bob. Fully understood and K&N's otherwise as mine . Great help.
  11. Thanks Bob for your early response, 1. The retaining of the air box is very interesting - the PO included the original air box & plenum in the 'bits & bobs package so I can refurb & use the box. Am I correct in assuming the air passing through the 'box' with the filter installed exits directly into the open engine bay. - the arrangement principal function to effectively create 'resistance'. 2. Thanks for your thoughts - good idea - will experiment at some point. Thanks again.
  12. 1. The PO on rebuild fitted the 3 x (paired) K&N filters in place of the plenum/ air box arrangement. However the planum/ air box type radiator cowl has been retained as an open void- presumably to allow a greater amount of cool air to the filters. However I am concerned thus that too much air is not being directed to the radiator/ not enough through the radiator. An electric 'pusher' fan is fitted, and consequentially the fan is also maybe needing to work more than necessary I am considering replacing the retained cowl with the 'carburettor' (enclosed) version , with a void cut and cov
  13. 1. I am replacing the horn button 'pencil' insulated connection (to the horn ring), on the TR6, as the soldered dome end is worn flat. Both the MOSS and Rimmer illustrations indicate the longer 'brass' end downwards i.e running on the horn ring.; the Workshop Manual does not show but states 'spring end downwards - which I assume is the longer brass end. = brass running on brass. Mine came out the other way round - possible why the soldered dome was worn flat. The steering wheel hub is a Moto-Lita type. (1) Can you please advise which way is the correct way (and to maintain avoidance of
  14. Thanks all for your observations/ comments. Given me confidence.
  15. Thanks Tom, very useful, Just to clarify, does your '3' have wire wheels, as opposed to solid wheels to which your comments refer. Barry C.
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