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grumpy2

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Posts posted by grumpy2

  1. Now I’m starting to use my TR7 more and expected niggles are coming to light. Latest of which is a dimly glowing ignition light. Off when ignition off, on brightly whilst starting the glows dimly when running. New/recon/repaired alternator time I think. Haven’t tested voltage yet but expect under 13v…

  2. OK. Forgive me but I'm new to all this. 

    My handbook says adjust the clock with the knob under the dash - OK, can do. It also says reset the trip with the knob under the dash - ?? same knob as the clock?, does nothing.

     

    How do I fit the bulb in the main beam tell-tale light on the dash - does the instrument cluster come away - how?

     

    thanks

     

    G

     

     

  3. well theres' nothing like consensus is there?

     

    thanks for the opinions above, everything from just use them to bin them! Mind you, Alan, I'm not sure which you are recommending I put in the bin or why.

     

    Roger, you are of course correct I don't know the provenance of my 'spare' hubs any more than I know the provenance of the hubs on my car. I do know the ones on the car are well worn and need replacing though.

     

    Nigel, I think your option 1 looks favourite. At least if they are not suitable then I can buy recon or new ones at a later date. I guess I'll just bung them on with the grease they contain

     

    Thanks for the advice all

     

    Gary

  4. well I think its time to do the rear hubs as I can feel the play and theres about 2mm movement at the rims.

     

    I've got a couple of good used hubs as replacements but I'd like to open them up and re-grease the bearings before fitting. I guess I need a fancy hub puller

     

    (which I've not got) but other than that is there anything else I should think about?

     

    I may do UJs at the same time and I'll probably do both sides.

     

    ps anyone local have a hub puller I can borrow please?

     

    thanks

     

    Gary

  5. heres what I did....

     

    set the throttle cable to give an idle speed of around 1500rpm. then use the airflow meter tao give the same reading across all three sets of butterflies by adjusting the throttle linkages. this is fiddly and took me about half an hour. hot work and lots of cross checking as adjusting one effects the others. once i had the same airflow at 1500rpm I reset the throttle cable to allow the butterflies to fully close and adjusted the idle speed to 8oorpm with the air bled screw

     

    made a huge difference and totally eliminated the rough running i was experiencing a low speed and light throttle openings.

     

    Gary

  6. checked the new and old one visually and by measurement. looks identical and measurements within 0.5 mm

     

    I'm happy with that so I'll fit it and see what happens then

  7. I've got the pin out and the pin isn't worn but the hole is

     

    Tried repining mg hinges with some success. Over bore the hole and turn a pin to match. Blob of weld and away.

     

    What do you think?

  8. Well I've got droopy door and a worn hinge. The door rises and falls about half an inch at the handle end. Door off easily enough and it's the bottom hinge that's very worn.

     

    Is it worth trying to re-pin it or just buy a new one

     

    Thanks

  9. I part own one (shared the outlay with a pal) and yes it's great. Much bigger than it looks in the pics so make sure you have somewhere to keep it when not in use. Also you'll need a decent drill to get it to lift with a car on. Your simple battery type will not do, my dewalt li-ion isn't up to the task.

  10. Mine takes quite a bit of cranking before it fires if it's been standing more than a couple of days. I put it down to the injectors leaking back and having to crank the metering unit to send fuel back to the injectors. I find using a slight touch on the accelerator pedal helps a little.

     

    If you're really struggling try a squirt of easy start into the plenum before cranking. Use sparingly and only to check the car actually runs ok once started.

     

    Gary

  11. Two, maybe 3 problems. The rear flexi pipe was blocked, root cause of problem. Changed the pipe, flexi and slave just in case. Attempting to bleed the air out clearly damaged the MC. Changing the MC allowed more air in front and rear which 'mechanic' managed to remove enough to pass MOT after changing the rear shoes.

     

    The 'trapped' air was in the front not the rear.

     

     

  12. Graeme

     

    spent the second half of the afternoon doing just that. Hadn't used my easibleed as the MC lid is too big. So I adapted the one from the old MC and decided to pump a litre of fresh fluid through the system. No bubbles came out of the rear cylinders BUT....... after about 15 seconds a single huge bubble came from the front near side, then nothing more. No bubbles from the offside.

     

    The pedal now is strong and biting point where it should be, travel nice and short.

     

    Result

     

    thanks for all the advice and pointers, ready for 'drive it day' next weekend now, phew.

     

    Gary

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