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About AWM

  1. I have gone with Cibie H4 headlights (if you can find them in RHD), Osram Nightbreaker bulbs and relays (the latter optional I agree but a better electrical design). I find this set up optimal on a couple of classics I own that use 7" round headlights. It gives a significant beam pattern and brightness upgrade that is still based on the original set up and without any legal baggage. Andrew
  2. Pardon me if I've missed this information somewhere but is CTM back in business (albeit in France)? I'd like to try their version of the Type 2. Andrew
  3. People routinely put over large carbs or throttle bodies on and actually destroy horsepower and/or flexibility. 40 mm is plenty unless you've got a real road burner. So if going for an EFI conversion, there's lot's of alternatives out there that are based on that diam. I've got some that are EFI versions of 40 DCOE's. I think they were originally intended for a BMW 6 conversion. Regards Andrew
  4. AWM

    Alfin Drums

    I had a look for 240Z finned drums before going for the Bastuck TR variety, as I couldn't find (what I considered) good 240Z ones in Europe. Maybe it's worth another look as the design appears to be superior. Andrew
  5. AWM

    Alfin Drums

    Not too sure about the loss of energy, quite hard to measure I can say, having spent many hours at Lucas Girling as a graduate trainee on the dyno experimenting with various disc brake cooling designs. We only focused on cooling efficiency and noise, as there was no significant kW absorbed power difference measured on the drive motor. However it's surprisingly easy to overheat drum brakes, and once they get hot braking capability is severely impacted and it's hard to lose that heat without stopping and letting them cool down (if you can of course). Apart from work on the dyno, I'd previous
  6. For the CTM conversion the Koni ref. is 80-2119. They are quite short. I'm not sure if they would fit any other suppliers's conversions. Andrew
  7. Yes, I have a set of the larger diam. Morgan brake cylinders to fit and I also got a set of Bastuck finned drums to help with fade at the back, so I'm hoping that will do the trick. Otherwise, it's disks for the rear as well. Have to see how the new set up performs in the real world first. Andrew
  8. You could consider an alloy caliper conversion using either the AP calipers or the American stuff available through the various tuning specialists. I've got a set to fit on my 6 and they are way lighter, plus they are four pot calipers and the disks are vented. I'm hoping it will brake like a modern (except for the ABS of course). Even if you stay with CI it's definitely very much worth going from drums to disks on the front for any performance application, as once you've experienced drum brake fade in an emergency braking situation, you never want to repeat it... Andrew
  9. I've only heard good things about the County pistons but don't have direct experience of them in a TR6 engine. One thing mentioned here that I want to repeat, is that whatever pistons you buy you should get them first and provide to the machine shop so that they can bore the block to suit. It's surprising how the different makes vary and you need to get the right clearances. I've seen that this is an important issue on several classic engines that I've rebuilt. Andrew
  10. You'll probably find you local bearing stockist can help you if they are still being made. They are to be found in most UK towns and certainly cities, and while they are focused on industrial customers, they will sell to anyone. They will have branded makes as well as cheaper alternatives, so you need to be clear what you are looking for. Alternatively, I've had a lot of success with eBay for hard to find original bearings. Especially if you have equivalent numbers to include in your searches. Good manufacturers are; Timken, SKF, INA, NSK and FAG. I'm talking NOS here of course, not modern
  11. Defo, O/D for originality, performance, practical and financial reasons. I've had/got a few Rover products with the LT77 and it's not robust and parts for some versions are now hard to get, some even unobtainable. If you want to go this way, then use the later R380 - a much better prospect. I don't know much about the Sierra box but I will imagine parts for that aren't common place nowadays either. We sometimes forget how long these items have been out of production and if there's no enthusiast market (as there is for the standard TR box and O/D set-up) then parts become unobtainium v. qui
  12. I got the Four Seasons (part no. 74648) branded version from the US and avoided the dreaded taxes/handling fee for once, so very pleased. There's no comparison between this valve and the aftermarket stuff available from the usual suspects here. Recommended. Andrew
  13. AWM

    Dash pads

    Plus 1 on this.
  14. I got some good quality repro's from Limora that were advertised on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Umrandung-Lufterduse-Schwarz-Triumph-TR4-TR6-Demister-Escutcheon-610181-/310766199152?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item485b1be170 Presumably SC Parts also have them therefore. Andrew
  15. AWM

    Side repeaters

    Welcome. I'm a bit disappointed with that blown up version, as I say, it looks much better on the car/ Andrew
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