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About Kevin76

  • Birthday July 24

Profile Information

  • Location
    East China, Michigan USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1976 Triumph TR6

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  • Yahoo
  1. Hi, I am gradually getting my 1976 TR6 in shape and one of the last things to tackle is ( what looks like to me) excessive negative camber on the rear wheels. They are not cambered the same either. I have read about shims and shimming combinations and was going to get into that when I saw in one of my catalogs that a company offers an adjustable rear training arm bracket. It sounds good in the blurb, but it is pretty pricey so I was wondering if anyone has used them and if they work before I plunk down the money. I do plan on re-bushing the rear trailing arms and possibly new springs too. Thanks, Kevin
  2. The odometer seems to be reading the mileage accurately. I have not lubed the cable, but can give it a try. Kevin
  3. Hello, My 1976 TR6 has a speedometer that has the needle jumping and/or reading much faster than the car is travelling. Occasionally it will work steadily & accuarately. There seems to be no predicting when it will work right, but it only does so once in awhile. Mostly it is jumpng and very fast. Any help woul dbe greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
  4. Thanks, Peter. I re-assembled the points per your drawing and it fired up. Spent yesterday breaking in the new cam. Good to be on the road again. Thanks to all for your responses. Kevin
  5. Thanks for your suggestions, this will give me a direction to go on tomorrow. I'll post back with the results. I greatly appreciate your advice. Kevin
  6. I recently had an entire engine re-build at a shop and have spent the last week re-installing the engine into the car. When I tried to start it, it would turn over but not start. I pulled a spark plug and no spark arced to ground. I have 12 volts going into the coil at the wire lead into the + side, but on the coil terminal it goes to 9V. On the negative side, with the terminal lead to the distributor off, I read 9V at the tab. As soon as I put the wire end on the tab, the voltage goes to zero. The positive side has also has a lead to what looks like a ballast resistor, which I grounded to the block. The points, condenser & rotor in the distributor are new, and I carefully gapped the points. I have read about bad-out-of-the-box rotors, so can change that out; I kept the old one that worked. I live in south east Michigan, USA. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
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