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Dtype53

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  1. Thank you all..........job done.and reassembled..........and it works. Would;not like to do that again..there is a place reserved in hell for the designer of this part. I was lucky as l had a long piece of cable running from the stator tube.and could never have done it without the photographs. I am waiting for a long sunny period in which to road test.......not soon then. thanks Scott
  2. Wonderfull.......will let you know how I get on. thanks, Scott
  3. Hi just one last thing......I hope. When I removed the two very long brass screws holding the horn push springs to the mechanism found they were floating loose and could not be tightened.......they appear to disappear into a void on the other side of the disc. Any answers. Sorry to bother you again. You may not even remember what lurks there. best wishes and thanks. scott
  4. Thanks chaps. Looks like the best way forward is to replace the broken the control head and wiring Possibly with an aftermarket or second hand unit. Then refurbish the steering box as necessary. BTW, should the short length of metal tube which passes through the steering wheel be connected to the disks or simply be loose where the wires pass through? Pics attached. Thanks again, Scott
  5. Hi, Johannes and the other guys, I have got down to level 2 on the control head.......and all is not well. Some pieces of Bakelite are broken off and missing and probably more of the mechanism. The wiring is shot and will need replacing. In any event the steering is as heavy as the titanic and as loose as you can get. Rimer appear to do an aftermarket replacement for both the control head and the steering box.......has anyone experience of these or any other views? I want to retain my original brown bakelite horn push cover. PS I had to dismantle the control head as the indicator lever had broken off and fallen out. sorry to trouble you yet again. kind regards, Scott
  6. Very many thanks to all. I am constantly amazed by the kindness and generosity of other Register members. I will get to work on Monday. Kind regards, Scott
  7. Have been trying to remove the steering control head to repair the indicator lever which came off in my hand. I have managed to remove the 3 grub screws in the head but can’t actually open the control head and need to get inside in order to fix the chromed indicator lever back in place. Can’t find any detail in manufacturers manual or Moss catalogue on how to get the head apart. Has anyone done this before and could talk me through it as I’m reluctant to put too much pressure on control unit to prise it apart. The lever is presumably held in place by a small screw which has again, presumably, fallen out and is inside the steering head. Thanks.
  8. Hello Rod, No twin housing. Thank you for a very full and helpful reply, I’ve added 2 x ‘x’ just to give me the choice. Once I’ve recovered from the ordering process, I’ll let you know if I need more help - thank you. Scott
  9. Morning Roger - that’s all really helpful. Presumably it’s the standard thermostat for UK? Scott, by the way!
  10. Rob - i’m obviously feeling my age which is older than my car - I’ve been studying the Moss catalogue and website for 2 days and still can’t work it out!
  11. Could anyone tell me what gaskets and thermostat I need to buy on my tr2, commission no TS6421. (1956).
  12. Hello.........she goes! Fitted new points, condenser and rotor arm, took her up to 195 degrees and no problem re-starting. Tried starting from hot three times and each time she fired-up with one turn of the crank. It could well have been the condenser at fault. I think we are very fortunate in the register that we can consult such a knowledgeable group of individuals. I don't know how I will fill my days now. Thanks to all, Scott
  13. Thanks for the info. chaps. Easy tip about the bonnet catches and HT leads. have checked the polarity wiring and it seems ok for battery and distributor.........but have yet to do the pencil test. HT leads checked out ok. New condenser (from the DD) arrived yesterday and, wife's gardening mania notwithstanding, hope to get it fitted today........will keep you all informed. Best wishes, Scott
  14. Hi. Thank you Colin. Replies sound very hopeful. I notice that in my car the copper fuel pipe between the carbs. is routed fairly near the exhaust manifold. Also noticed that there is a brown, oily substance leaking from the connection where the vacuum advance pipe joins the front carburettor. Course of action?..........Replace coil, condenser and points and insulate the fuel line. Also sort out the intake manifold connection. Best wishes All.........sorry about poor quality of engine bay photo. Scott
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