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Daz

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Posts posted by Daz

  1. Thanks for the above replies, I don't want a bullshit bar, I want one to save my neck and the wife's and the dog come to think of it. Having owned many soft top cars I want to free myself of that nagging doubt in the back of my mind when applying the beans on my favourite A roads.

    Looking at revington and a kind offer from a fellow member

  2. I am looking for a roll over bar, the only one I can find at rimmers has almost straight legs down behind the seats, I have seen others with angled bars to the rear ( parcel Shelf ? ) towards the petrol tank, anyone know where these are sold

     

    Thanks

  3. Really you don't want to be thinking about welding,

    if you don't know what you are doing, VERY Dangerous

     

    John.

    Ditto that, please don't weld a fuel tank... A & E are overwhelmed as it is, I know an experienced welder who tried it he is now scared for life but lucky to be alive

  4. So at 2000 rpm in 4th O/D just how fast am I going ? Its a 1975 standard car, standard tyres. No need to go into great detail about gear ratios tyres sizes and stuff, just give or take a few mph, how fast am I going? I need to fit a fag lighter then I could plug in Bat Nav.

     

    Thanks

  5. Dear Forum,

     

    Brief update. Today the gearbox was pulled and the workshop investigated the sticky clutch issue. I had provided them with the sticky clutch information from www.buckeyetriumphs.org. They found that the movement of the release bearing carrier on the front cover was not really smooth. With even the slightest tilt, the release bearing carrier would stick. The front cover surface was not smooth and [even though very recently replaced] the bronze release bearing carrier had markings on the inside. The free play was very minimal (0.05...0.1 mm was mentioned). The front cover was polished and the carrier honed. Free play now quoted around 0.2...0.25mm. All other (hydraulic) clutch components were OK (and replaced recently).

     

    Once it is put together again, I will make a longer test drive :-)

    Will update you in a couple of weeks.

     

    So how is it now?

  6. I had the same problem changed just about everything external, slave, master, pipework and finaly after advise from TR Bitz I change the transit, sorry Borg and Beck clutch for the proper Laycock item and I now have a perfectly smoth and light clutch. Laycock may be expensive but it has transformed the car. Borg and Beck don't make a TR6 clutch they make a clutch that will fit a TR6 which is far to heavy IMHO. Take the plunge, fit the proper OE Laycock clutch and feel what a TR6 clutch can be like.

     

    Good Luck

  7. Hi Guy, Thank you for replying, please would you clarify, When you say the front of the mc feeds the rear brakes, I have the outlet nearest the servo unit feeding the front brakes and the outlet furthest away from the servo feeding the rear, is this the correct way round?

     

    Regards

     

    Peter

    Yes Peter, you have your pipes the correct way round.

  8. My wheels had been restored by PO but then he fitted ring, I don't like the rings but they have marked the otherwise lovely rims. I am going to get the wheels redone but what colour should the rims be please?

  9. I give up so I will have to show my stupidity and lack of experience again.

    I removed the injectors (1975 TR6) and found that the insulator blocks are all ways round ! some are flat end out with O ring at the top some are stepped end out O ring at the top one has the O ring at the bottom.

    I have read the brown book and am still confused.

    The blocks have one end which is flat and the other end is stepped. The O ring can be fitted in either grove, one has square sided one has tapered sides so which way round should they be and which grove does the O ring sit in ? Should the correct assembly give a tight fit ?

     

    Thanks

    Darren

  10. My method was the try and start the engine. Which it did after about about 20 seconds, ok on less than 6 cylinders. Then feel the fuel lines and find the ones that are not pulsing. Pull out one of the non pulsing injectors and then you have 3 choices.

    1 place in a jar and pull the tip of the injector so it opens until the fuel flows consistently. Let go of the tip if the injector and hopefully you will be rewarded by a lovely cone of fuel. If not repeat.

    2 crack the union between the fuel pipe and the injector and bleed from there.

    3 hold the injector upsidedown and bleed as in 1 (this method is more dangerous as it is hard to contain the petrol so any spark and WOOF.

    You may need to do this a few times as bubbles can take a while to get through the system.

    Leaving the pump on for 30 mins is ok if you have mucked about with the supply before the mu but is unlikely to help after the mu.

    Cheers

    Tim

    Thanks Tim I used the jam jar method, had to do it a number of times with 1 and 3 for some reason, but all sweet now.

    Thanks everyone

    Darren

  11. Thanks all, I have spoken to Speedy Cables and they don’t do a TR6 speedo, lots of standard Smiths instruments but not one with the high beam, indicator lights. :(

    So I shall refurb my own, how hard can it be? :blink: I have a few old smiths speedos in a box somewhere I shall dig them out and have a go.

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