Jump to content

Dave Smith

Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Dave Smith

  • Birthday 11/16/1953

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 & Rover P4

Recent Profile Visitors

207 profile views
  1. Thanks for your replies. Perhaps investing in some thread gauges will confirm the new M/C spec. I'm surprised that neither the supplier or manufacturer states what thread its female thread is? Especially if Triumph changed to metric during TR6 production. I did buy a 10mm male union yesterday from a local motor factor, and that is far too loose. The male union on the pipe measures .438 (major diameter) with a micrometer, which confirm its 7/16 inch. I think I will have the existing M/C resleeved as its a Girling, most likely the original. I'm happy that replacing the seal on the slave cylinder is ok, the bore is in A1 condition, the dust cap in good condition and was still attached etc. I don't think its that old it has 2009 stamped on it, although 10 years ago but its mileage is very low in this period.
  2. Hi Following on from above, just fitting a new clutch master cylinder, i'm not convinced the thread for the male pipe fitting is correct. I'm sure the existing male union thread is 7/16 UNF, which is not fitting into the new MC. Could the MC have a metric thread. MC is from Rimmers TRW PMC133, cannot find anywhere where the type of thread is specified.
  3. Thanks Waldi, have now removed the old seal and replaced it with a new one. Used a thin pair of pliers to lift it and small snippers to cut it. New one went on very easy with brake grease. Bore of the cylinder is in good condition.
  4. Hi Just wondering how to separate the piston from the filler block. See photo. Started to change the fluid in the Clutch realised there was loads of crud in the master reservoir, replacing the master and stripped the slave to see if any had found its way down, but none had. Slave cylinder looks like its been replaced at some stage.
  5. Dave Smith

    Seat Foam

    I'm just going to replace the two back side strips of the seats, which had totally disintegrated. See above photo. Looking at WJGCO link to any foam, this originally looks like their reconstituted foam, which is very dense and firm. I am tempted to use their firm foam for this, to avoid the possible disintegration of the recon foam. These side panels do need to very firm foam. Also not sure how easy to cut the recon foam. The base looks ok and the main foam on the back looks ok, the TR6 is fairly low mileage, hence not much wear over the last 40 yrs, so decided to do a minimium job for now. Anyone brought foam yet and which type. These side pieces are about 2 inch thick at main part of back and rises to about 3.5 inch at its edge at the base, also decreases with height. Will go for 4 inch thick foam.
  6. Dave Smith

    Bad form

    I assume Ebay do not think its illegal, which is probably correct. Not defending the seller. Need to pose as a buyer (undercover) and find the whole commission number and then report to DVLA as its from a scrap car.
  7. Dave Smith

    Seat Foam

    I started this last night, which worked out how the cover is attached and how to remove. So this morning started the removal but the vertical (back) part of seat on the front face the cover, is held by a piece of the fabric built into the seat, at half height, cannot work out how to free it. Currently a dreadful mess. From the photo, I have put a red line along where its held down. Update: Soon as posted original realised the material was held around base of upright with one clip, material different colour foolled me at first. See photo of this and with seat cover removed.
  8. Not joining the debate about to fit it or not. But I have some experience with the servo you are referring to. Rover P4 owners have for some time been fitting the locheed servo instead of the girling Mk 2 servos. The Locheed servo are considered to be very reliable. I brought mine from Chic Doig (through ebay). The one SOS fitted to the Dart, looks the same to me. The genuine ones are made by the descendants of the original Leamington Spa company Locheed, AP, Caparo and currently 920 Engineering. Not to be confused with Locheed type at much cheaper prices.
  9. This cable would had been cooked years ago when it fed the fuel pump, which I think was changed to a seperate system / relay a long time ago. Strange how it functioned for so long until I disturbed it, which in some ways its good I found it now. Edit Never jump to conclusions with old cars - the cooked cable was the auxilliary cable from the ignition switch, the clue was that someone had wrapped its end in insulating tape.
  10. Yes it is Stuart. Just looking at new harness! How much soldering is involved? Anyway thanks to everyone who's took te trouble to reply
  11. After tracking along the cable, this looks like the problem, see attached photo. I could not peel back the black covering, but it looks like a white wire has split with exposed wire. By the way the test bulb indicated very lttle power to light up the bulb, although the meter suggested 12V, before uncovering the above. Update: The white in the photo is part of the cable covering and not the cable as I first thought, managed to have a better look at there appears to be one burnt out white cable.
  12. Thanks for all your replies #2 - Peter - For test 1 and 3 no connection to battery except for multi meter. Test 2 - I just put the earth connection on. #3 - Rob - Before I did these test I, with everything connected as should be, I checked with multi meter power to both sides of fuse box, which had no power. The voltmeter and the warning lights did work, coming off the same connection on the ignition switch. I obtained the correct wiring diagram from Matt after reading other threads on this forum, after I realised I had a problem. #5 - Peter - Battery was not connected, I hot wired to the lucar connection of the white feed at the ignition switch and then put the multimeter between the earth strap and neg terminal to use was the current going into the body. #6 and #7 - I did electrics as part of my first year of my degree, it was a nightmare for me back then, somehow it clicked in time for the exams at end of year, and now long forgotten. #9 - ok test bulb will be next plan of attack. I have had the car for three years with no problem with the electrical side except for the failure of the Clear Hooters light switch, on my first night drive. Going behind the speedo should not really touched this particular circuit, except for the voltage stabiliser , so I am baffled why it stopped working. I have noticed various alterations that looks to be made, I will try to work out what these are for, but looks like Hazard lights and fuel pump etc.
  13. I'm after some help / ideas After removing and refitting the speedo on my 73 - CR car, the "green" electric circuit stopped working So I isolated the white wire from the ignition switch and and at the fuse box and battery totally disconnected Put 12V down the wire and checked with multi meter - 12V See attached diagram But if I put the earth connection onto the battery - 0V Then lastly I checked the voltage between the car body and the neg battery terminal - 12V Did not quite isolate the white wire from the ignition as there were two wires running to the same lucar connection, the other white wire goes to ignition / oil warning lights, volt gauge and coil / solenoid - see attached diagram. It looks hot on I have a live wire shorting against the body somewhere, is this the general concensus? Next move?
  14. Ok the wiring was hiding behind the ventilation pipe!!
  15. I have been behind my dash, to tighten the two bolts of the steering column clamp to the fascia. I have removed the speedo, but the tacho would not budge. I also wanted to test the Voltage stabiliser to see if its output is 10v, I then realised I have no power/voltage to all the "green" circuits. No voltage at the fuse box for that circuit, either side of the fuse. Looking at the wiring diagram ('73 CR) - there is a white wire running from the ignition switch to the fuse box for that circuit, I presume I have disturbed something. Question: Is the ignition switch wiring all enclosed, so almost impossible to disturb the wiring, I cannot see much from underneath. If I did manage to remove the tacho, would it be any help to see the wiring going into the ignition switch? Second part, would the white wire likley to go straight to the switch or would there be a connection somewhere. I have tried to check the wiring as much as possible, for any loose connections but to no avail.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.