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Dave Smith

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About Dave Smith

  • Birthday 11/16/1953

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 & Rover P4

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  1. Dave Smith

    Seat Foam

    I'm just going to replace the two back side strips of the seats, which had totally disintegrated. See above photo. Looking at WJGCO link to any foam, this originally looks like their reconstituted foam, which is very dense and firm. I am tempted to use their firm foam for this, to avoid the possible disintegration of the recon foam. These side panels do need to very firm foam. Also not sure how easy to cut the recon foam. The base looks ok and the main foam on the back looks ok, the TR6 is fairly low mileage, hence not much wear over the last 40 yrs, so decided to do a minimium job for now. Anyone brought foam yet and which type. These side pieces are about 2 inch thick at main part of back and rises to about 3.5 inch at its edge at the base, also decreases with height. Will go for 4 inch thick foam.
  2. Dave Smith

    Bad form

    I assume Ebay do not think its illegal, which is probably correct. Not defending the seller. Need to pose as a buyer (undercover) and find the whole commission number and then report to DVLA as its from a scrap car.
  3. Dave Smith

    Seat Foam

    I started this last night, which worked out how the cover is attached and how to remove. So this morning started the removal but the vertical (back) part of seat on the front face the cover, is held by a piece of the fabric built into the seat, at half height, cannot work out how to free it. Currently a dreadful mess. From the photo, I have put a red line along where its held down. Update: Soon as posted original realised the material was held around base of upright with one clip, material different colour foolled me at first. See photo of this and with seat cover removed.
  4. Not joining the debate about to fit it or not. But I have some experience with the servo you are referring to. Rover P4 owners have for some time been fitting the locheed servo instead of the girling Mk 2 servos. The Locheed servo are considered to be very reliable. I brought mine from Chic Doig (through ebay). The one SOS fitted to the Dart, looks the same to me. The genuine ones are made by the descendants of the original Leamington Spa company Locheed, AP, Caparo and currently 920 Engineering. Not to be confused with Locheed type at much cheaper prices.
  5. This cable would had been cooked years ago when it fed the fuel pump, which I think was changed to a seperate system / relay a long time ago. Strange how it functioned for so long until I disturbed it, which in some ways its good I found it now. Edit Never jump to conclusions with old cars - the cooked cable was the auxilliary cable from the ignition switch, the clue was that someone had wrapped its end in insulating tape.
  6. Yes it is Stuart. Just looking at new harness! How much soldering is involved? Anyway thanks to everyone who's took te trouble to reply
  7. After tracking along the cable, this looks like the problem, see attached photo. I could not peel back the black covering, but it looks like a white wire has split with exposed wire. By the way the test bulb indicated very lttle power to light up the bulb, although the meter suggested 12V, before uncovering the above. Update: The white in the photo is part of the cable covering and not the cable as I first thought, managed to have a better look at there appears to be one burnt out white cable.
  8. Thanks for all your replies #2 - Peter - For test 1 and 3 no connection to battery except for multi meter. Test 2 - I just put the earth connection on. #3 - Rob - Before I did these test I, with everything connected as should be, I checked with multi meter power to both sides of fuse box, which had no power. The voltmeter and the warning lights did work, coming off the same connection on the ignition switch. I obtained the correct wiring diagram from Matt after reading other threads on this forum, after I realised I had a problem. #5 - Peter - Battery was not connected, I hot wired to the lucar connection of the white feed at the ignition switch and then put the multimeter between the earth strap and neg terminal to use was the current going into the body. #6 and #7 - I did electrics as part of my first year of my degree, it was a nightmare for me back then, somehow it clicked in time for the exams at end of year, and now long forgotten. #9 - ok test bulb will be next plan of attack. I have had the car for three years with no problem with the electrical side except for the failure of the Clear Hooters light switch, on my first night drive. Going behind the speedo should not really touched this particular circuit, except for the voltage stabiliser , so I am baffled why it stopped working. I have noticed various alterations that looks to be made, I will try to work out what these are for, but looks like Hazard lights and fuel pump etc.
  9. I'm after some help / ideas After removing and refitting the speedo on my 73 - CR car, the "green" electric circuit stopped working So I isolated the white wire from the ignition switch and and at the fuse box and battery totally disconnected Put 12V down the wire and checked with multi meter - 12V See attached diagram But if I put the earth connection onto the battery - 0V Then lastly I checked the voltage between the car body and the neg battery terminal - 12V Did not quite isolate the white wire from the ignition as there were two wires running to the same lucar connection, the other white wire goes to ignition / oil warning lights, volt gauge and coil / solenoid - see attached diagram. It looks hot on I have a live wire shorting against the body somewhere, is this the general concensus? Next move?
  10. Ok the wiring was hiding behind the ventilation pipe!!
  11. I have been behind my dash, to tighten the two bolts of the steering column clamp to the fascia. I have removed the speedo, but the tacho would not budge. I also wanted to test the Voltage stabiliser to see if its output is 10v, I then realised I have no power/voltage to all the "green" circuits. No voltage at the fuse box for that circuit, either side of the fuse. Looking at the wiring diagram ('73 CR) - there is a white wire running from the ignition switch to the fuse box for that circuit, I presume I have disturbed something. Question: Is the ignition switch wiring all enclosed, so almost impossible to disturb the wiring, I cannot see much from underneath. If I did manage to remove the tacho, would it be any help to see the wiring going into the ignition switch? Second part, would the white wire likley to go straight to the switch or would there be a connection somewhere. I have tried to check the wiring as much as possible, for any loose connections but to no avail.
  12. Great to hear of a stolen classic being recovered, I understand the chances are very slim, but the power of social media won. Reading through the thread, it does seem that it maybe a opportunistic theft probably by a inexperienced thief. Don tip was right in that it could be left close by awaiting to see if its recovered through a tracker. I wonder did he take it to a place near him, maybe his garage, phoned a mate to boast what he done, who reminded him what if it has tracker fitted, who then suggested he take it and hide it near to where it was stolen, which may account for the movement of the car tracked through the APR camera's.
  13. My 73 TR6, just looking at photographs when my car was nearly new, the original reflective style plates had a stainless steel edging around them, I think this was quite common in the '70's. If you going for true / correct originality for a '73 car.
  14. Yes you not far from Coventry at Stratford. If you were thinking of visiting the site of the Canley plant you maybe disappointed, its now a series of retail / industrial units, but with road names such as Herald, Dolemite, Renown and Spitfire etc. The only surviving building is the Sports and Social Club off Tile Hill Lane. The main frontage of the works were on Canley Road. A few miles towards Birmingham along the A45, is an Art Deco building which was the Standard Triumph Service Dept but also housed the Competitions Dept, this used to be very prominent building from the A45, but it seems to be now disappearing behind a large hedgerow along the highway boundary. Your drive from London to Stratford could take in the Cotswolds, such as a route through Chipping Norton, Moreton in the Marsh and Broadway and then take a "B...." road to Stratford (old A46). On the way back you could take in the Heritage Motor Museum at Gydon. Enjoy your visit. A Coventry Kid.
  15. You could speak to John Cowley at Blakedown Sports Cars 07976 427248, he is based near Kidderminster, which is very close to Stourbridge and knows TR's very well.
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