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About Jomac

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    'Trusty' TR5
  1. Here is another one up for grabs - I thought these were rare?? http://www.trbitz.com/detail?vid=288126 Peter
  2. The 6" was 'in the way' when I had to change the clutch slave cylinder - but it was possible Peter
  3. The oil filter on my car is a spin on Fram PH 4883 which is about 6" long. I have renewed with the same Fram filter type during my ownership as one was fitted when I purchased the car 4 years ago. At the time of purchase, in with all the bits and pieces, there was a Fram PH 2964 which is about 3" long. My question is, in what circumstances would you fit a 6" filter or a 3" filter? Peter
  4. Many thanks for the replies and Kev in particular. It makes me wonder if the reason why a breakdown occurs is the shear weight of spares and tools being transported just in case of a 'breakdown'! On another topic how does one load 'TR register member' in blue with the logo beneath ones name? Peter
  5. tr register member

  6. Everything is as it should be on my car with no worries, but what spares would you take on a tour or what spares proved to be invaluable for you on a tour? Peter
  7. I was wondering what the views are on the frequency of oil (engine) and filter changes especially if the car is not used a great deal. Mine for example does around 1000 miles a year and I change the oil every 2 years. Is this too long? too short? Whilst on the subject any views on gearbox and diff oil?
  8. Jomac

    Battery talk

    Thanks John I actually 'inherited' that very model but called a Mastech in amongst my fathers garage stuff when I cleared his house. Never been sure how to use it but I have now located instructions on line - but might be beyond me! Thanks again
  9. Jomac

    Battery talk

    LED update - The malfunctioning LED indicators was down to a 'knackered battery'. With the old battery on 'hi' charge everything worked normally. With a new battery everything works normally. Forgive me as I am not too technical but apparently the lead inside batteries get a sulfide coating and with age this is sufficient to affect the out put even though the battery is still able to turn the engine over. Apparently LEDs are very voltage sensitive and this was my problem. A big thank you to Gil from Bettercarlighting who helped me sort it out.
  10. Jomac

    Battery talk

    The flasher unit came from Gil (who is extremely helpful) at Bettercarlighting
  11. Jomac

    Battery talk

    Thanks RobH - It is a two terminal flasher unit
  12. Jomac

    Battery talk

    Many thanks for the suggestions and explanations. Unfortunately I do not have an ammeter. More information: The original indicator problem, dependent on the position of the indicator stalk, meant that the left indicators were just 'on' - not flashing. In the right position I had hazard warning lights flashing (all four corners flashing) but it has not got hazard lights fitted! In neutral position the green dash light glowed. In an attempt to test the flasher unit I managed to 'blow it up' due to a poorly improvised bulb holder - don't ask! Since then, put the battery on charge for 24 hours, fitted a new LED flasher unit and the character of the fault has now changed to either left or right indicators are just 'on' - not flashing. Hazard flashing has disappeared. Bulb holders are in good, some like new, condition. Thanks for the battery information. Is the energy draw (type of draw) from a battery for indicators 'and the like' different to say the starter motor? In other words is there an element of the battery that could be, to use a technical phrase, knackered, but is still OK for other requirements - this has been suggested to me hence my initial questions about batteries. Thanks again
  13. Jomac

    Battery talk

    I believe I may need a new battery. I have been told that low voltage (possibly a knackered battery) is causing my LED indicators/flasher unit to malfunction yet there is sufficient to crank the engine over and start up after the winter lay up? How can this be? The battery has been kept on a trickle charger all winter. My current battery is a 'Type 069 - 68AH - 505amps SAE' It may be silly but what do these numbers mean? If I do need a new battery is there any advantage/disadvantage in upping or downing the AH and Amps? Which of these numbers is vital? What would be the best AH/Amps to go for?
  14. Hi Roger Impossible to say how long it was defective. It is not a well used car and there appeared to be an accumulation of 'sludge', caused by gravity, on the outside of the piston - it may have been letting by for a while and then gave up big time. Should the rod passing through the rubber seal be lubricated? I am going to put some silicone grease on it as it appears to be 'dragging' the rubber seal out with the in/out motion. Peter
  15. Just clocking in to say new OEM slave fitted and all is well once more! By way of interest I dismantled the old one and is there meant to be a seal, rather like a piston ring, in the groove in the piston? If so it was not there! The inside of the cylinder felt a bit rough and there seemed to be bits of grit in remains of the fluid in the cylinder - perhaps the old seal? Many thanks again Peter
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