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david c

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Everything posted by david c

  1. + 1 for Autopaints Brighton.
  2. Excellent, thanks Rob connected the yellow wire to the tang on A1 as you suggested, via a fuse. and hat presto now when I restart the car the radio / usb player does not go back to track one, perhaps now I will get further than track 15! Having poked about behind the "H" frame and the radio, I am now firmly of the opinion that I must tidy up the rats nest of wires. Kind regards David
  3. Hi Rob Had a look at the voltage regulator this afternoon, The "A" terminal is used for the ammeter via a brown and white wire, as there is no spare spade on the A terminal I assume I must cut this wire and splice in the yellow from radio, or is there a better way? Thanks David
  4. That' interesting, will have a poke about and let you know how I get on, Thanks again David
  5. Thanks Rob, clear and simple......just what I need /needed
  6. I know it's not a huge problem but, Every time I switch the ignition off it cuts all power to the stereo this causes the memory to shut down so every time I restart the car the stereo goes back to the start / 1st track There must be some way to avoid this safely . Any ideas please? Sorry should have said it's a TR4a Thankyou David
  7. Thanks Steve, really useful. Have to be honest here, my initial reaction to my skill as a paint sprayer may have been a little over optimistic or it may may have been influenced by the thinners. Any way turns out though mostly very shiny also rather orange pealy and bits of over spray, so out with the 1200 grit and that knocked the orange peal off Just received a pack of very fine grit papers right up to 5000 grit as Pete and Andy suggested and this video has confirmed so will have a go at getting at least a semi pro finish , when I have finished....if I am at least reasonably satisf
  8. Steve that sounds like just what i'm looking for.......how do I find it please?
  9. Nigel would love to have another shot at it, who knows straight from the gun finish....... ....I wish, but i'm self isolating in the shed, well that's what I tell the boss. I will take a few pics tomorrow. Will certainly be leaving it for a good few days, in this rubbish weather it's not like I can put it out in the hot sun for a day or two. I will have a look on the web for ultra fine grit paper. Thanks, David
  10. Having spent the last few months revisiting my Spitfire the last few days I have been respraying it, nothing clever just "quick" blow over, really quite pleased with the result. Before I got my TR4a some 4 years ago the Spitfire was my first proper restoration, I did all the spannery bits then the TR presented it's self. Obviously the TR took precedence and the Spitfire got put to one side so the cosmetics had to wait. On reflection and with the benefit of hindsight I should have finished the Spitfire first. Without the pressure of having to finish the proper car. working on the Spitfire
  11. I had this problem too. I really enjoy listening to music (proper music late 50's to early 70's). After much fafing about I bought a quite simple Pioneer that fitted into the "H" frame, light on features but quite big on volume. I use mine with a mico "thumb" usb drive, it holds over 300 tracks all on something as the name suggests no bigger than your thumbnail, never bothered to fit a aerial. What I haven't yet worked out is as Roger says is where to site a pair of half decent speakers, at the moment they sit in the footwells stuffed right the back, not ideal but the best I can th
  12. That's a nice way to look at it. Must say I have only driven it up and down the lane but it does seem to go very well for little Spit. Will look at Rimmers (got them on "speed click"
  13. Evening all. This is an odd request for which I am sorry. Having got my TR sorted to a point, well I'm happy with it, I have turned my attention to my Spitfire which I actually bought before the TR and sort of lost interest in when the TR arrived. Well I have learned a lot about "restoring" old Triumphs and one thing I have learned is that it is important to know what you have! to that end I have been trying to find out just what I have bought. This is where I am getting a little confused, I thought I had bought a mk4 but now I am not so sure, the very battered vin plate lo
  14. Used to use this on the teak work on my boat, can't see a use for it on TRs. David
  15. david c

    Doors

    Thanks Mick that makes sense.
  16. david c

    Doors

    Back to bare metal inside and out, but not painted in epoxy primer, just standard grey primer..........like they used in the factory? reasoning the original primer would not have been epoxy (would it?) and that lasted 50 years, was planing on giving the top and bottom inside a spray over with some sort of underseal" as its quite clear that's where the rust strikes.
  17. david c

    Doors

    I have spent the last few weeks repairing / restoring a pair of TR 4 / 4A / 5 doors my guess is 4A as the original colour is / was Wedgewood blue,.its been interesting and really quite enjoyable even if in this weather and with the short cold days it has take rather longer than I expected. Anyway cut to the chase, now they are in a fine shade of battleship grey primer but I understand this is not good from a storage point of view, also I think a coat of gloss would show up any defects in my handiwork. Any suggestions as to what colour I should paint them to make it easier for any potentia
  18. Right I have taken Robs advise and tried to run this fan without the relay ie straight from the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the pos. line. Result just the same, less than a second running and the fuse pops. Conclusion the fan is useless, I should dump it. I started this mini project because I had this fan laying about in a box and thought why not, nothing much better to do. Now I have nice shiny new wiring in place and no fan, I think what I'll do is keep an eye open for another more up to date fan. Can't win 'em all, thanks for all your help. Kind regards Dav
  19. Okay that makes sense.......even to me, probably explains why the numbers are printed so small that you can't read them, or is that just me? As for the 5 pin relay that just makes my brain hurt.
  20. Graham, Tom and Tony thank you all for your wiring diagrams, I am really very grateful for your help and interest. ( I note some disagreement on terminal 85?) I am sure if I knew more about the subject there would be a perfectly rational explanation. I confess I had the day off today, the sun was shining and I had a good use for all the old cans of used engine oil, the tractor shed now looks a treat. Back on the case tomorrow. I intend to try a simple test first as suggested by Rob. Thanks again David
  21. Good plan I'll try that in the morning, thank you David
  22. Thanks Rob I'ts very kind of you to take the time, I'll make a little shopping list and order a couple of those and some normal blade fuses to replace the ones I've blown +a little stock. Rather more sensible than using the wiring as a fuse. I wish I understood more about electrics. Kind regards david
  23. Okay i'll skip that option then
  24. Hmmm not as easy as I thought, I cant find a "T" type fuse in the bladed format. a little easier to find in the ceramic cartridge "tube" type fuse as Rob has suggested, but I note the one with the link is rated 240 volt is that important or is it just the amps I need to get right? I expect the motor once had a little silver sticker on it with details of "stuff" but I think that has long gone. As it was once on the car I can only assume it has worked at some time in the past. Now for a very silly question whats the worst thing that is likely to happen if I don't use a fuse?...........
  25. Hello Rob Thankyou for your comments, the fan is a rather old warrior and I don't have any documentation for it. When I reassembled it I tested it in a very crude way simply touched one wire to pos. and the other to neg. of a spare battery, It worked a treat! I will have a look on the interweb for surge resistant fuses. Thanks again David
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