ed_h
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Posts posted by ed_h
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On 2/8/2024 at 3:32 AM, RogerH said:
Hi Ed,
how do you suppress radio interference with your leads. Is it with the 'R' suffix plugs.
Roger
Roger--
I don't run a radio in the TR, so the issue never came up.
I have put a radio in the GT, but haven't started it yet, so I don't know if it's a problem. The wire I used is not copper cored, so the extra impedance should limit interference. If there is still interference, there are still a few things to try, like resistor plugs.
Ed
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3 hours ago, Waldi said:
Hi Ed,
I like the neat lay-out of your ignition leads.
I looked at your website for more info about the home made leads, but could not find it.
Can you share a bit of info:
Which make caps and wire have you used?Thanks,
WaldiHi, Waldi.
The wire I used is Belden brand, and NAPA here in the States sells it by the foot. The contacts and boots all came from Amazon.
The TR6 page with this info is about halfway don the page: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-117/TR6-117.html
A little more info on this GT6 page, again about halfway down: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-129/GT6-129.html
I also found on Amazon a simple crimping tool that is used in a vise. It worked fine, but for the GT6, I bought a proper crimper.
Ed
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I've always been skeptical about high end "designer" HT wires, and the comparison to some audiophile silliness is an apt one.
I make my leads to fit, using good quality name brand wire. It's easy, and I get a custom fit, all for essentially the price of a standard aftermarket set. Five years later, all is good.
Ed
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Some of the Internet recipies do work on some plastics, especially the concentrated hydrogen peroxide (the 3% stuff from the drug store won't do much) and UV light formulas.
They can only really cure surface conditions on certain opaque plastics though. Translucent plastics like the washer bottles have chemical changes in the bulk material that surface treatments won't be able th reach.
Ed
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These are the locations of internal frame blockages in a 74 TR6:
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I've got it for a TR6. Is it similar?
Ed
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9 hours ago, stillp said:
I'm sure I remember from my mis-spent youth that dipping steel objects into a strong solution of copper sulphate would result in a very thin layer of copper being deposited on the steel. I wonder if that thin layer would be sufficient to prevent rusting, if applied to a rust-free tank interior.
Pete
The electro-less copper from that process is VERY thin, and adhesion isn't great, so it won't offer much lasting protection.
Ed
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Instead of putting the tank in acid, you could put acid in the tank. It's worked pretty well for me a few times. Here's one:
http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-63/TR6-63.html
Ed
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Love your methodical, Engineering-based approach! And your ability to make such clear videos under such challenging conditions!
Keep 'em coming!
Ed
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4 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Market them with ’dynamic’ or ‘ultra’ in the wording and you can add 1000% to the buying price……..
Right. Work in "AI" somehow, and another 1000%.
Ed
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WOW, how scary and exciting, Toby! Here's wishing you great success!
Ed
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Instead of stripper brand names, look at the ingredients. If you can find one with methylene chloride, it will work well. Anything else may work, but slower.
Ed
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On 8/14/2023 at 4:32 AM, stillp said:
I didn't find it to work very well. Cellulose thinners did.
Pete
Hi, Pete--
The problem with commercial niche products like Carb Cleaner and Cellulose Thinner is that they are mixtures of various ingredients, with no specific recipe, so formulas vary from brand to brand (and over time too, I've found). They both typically contain common solvents like acetone, toluene, and xylene, but minor ingredients can vary widely. Some minor components are likely just impurities, and not really intentional active ingredients.
So if someone has found a specific brand of either description that works well for a specific task, they should stick with it.
Ed
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Yes, why wouldn't you try, you know, Carb Cleaner? It's a mix of solvents designed for just that job.
Ed
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2 hours ago, Malbaby said:
Can anyone please advise on what type and thread size for this hole.... it's for the adaptor insert into the block to take the switch ..
3/4-16.
Ed
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4 hours ago, stuart said:
No Ed we havent had Landaus over here since the twenties
Stuart.
Understood. They lasted into the 90s here, but there is still a good aftermarket industry.
Ed
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This is popular in the US. Don't know if it's available in UK.
It says spray grade, but I typically brush it.
Ed
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1 hour ago, BaulyCars said:
Thanks, Andy, ok this sounds like a must do, but haven't done so before - any good refs for learning and setting this up? (there's probably some YouTube videos no doubt).
Just like many other topics, YouTube can be a good source of information, but unfortunately, for home plating at least, the good ones are vastly outnumbered by ones that offer misguided or even outright bogus information. By far, most of the plating processes found on YouTube will yield inferior or inconsistent results. Cars are essentially an outdoor application, and plating needs to be more than just cosmetic, which is what you'll get by following most YT processes.
Unless you have a background in chemistry, the best way to get into hobby plating is through an outfit like Caswell. They supply kits that will yield good quality plating.
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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
How durable is Jax Black gun bluing liquid? It is frequently mentioned and used in the model engineering and making world.
The bluing or blacking solutions do offer some protection against corrosion, but won't stand up to outdoor conditions for long.
Ed
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Hi, Toby.
Most factory hardware was cadmium or zinc plated to protect it from rusting. So if you see rust on a fastener, it means the protective plating has been breeched. Cleaning in just about any acid (including vinegar) will also remove the plating. Evaporust works by a different chemistry, and does not bother the plating. Any areas where the plating is gone will be more subject to rusting than the original part was.
New hardware is a good option, but that's sometimes not possible. Alternatively, some sort of new protective coating can be applied. Black oxide is one possibility, but an actual re-plate is way more protective. Lots of outfits will do zinc (or other metal) plating of small parts for reasonable cost. Home replating is also within reach of many hobbyists who want to try it.
Ed
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I think that's correct. Seam toward the rear of the car.
Ed
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6 hours ago, BaulyCars said:
Hi Ed,
Thank you, much appreciated.
JBW's are a great wheel - they spec a 67.1mm centrebore, which is very near to fitting!
Drop me a PM or email and on which GT6 logo you're thinking of (the mk1 GT6 with the 6 below the GT or the mk2 'GT6')
Kind Regards
Toby
PM sent.
Ed
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These look great!
I'm putting a set of Minilite clones from JBW on my GT6. I'd consider a set of these with a GT6 logo if they would fit.
Ed
Waterless engine Coolant
in TR6 Forum
Posted
1. It has lower heat carrying capacity than either water or 50/50 mix.
2. It's flammable.
3. It is just straight glycols--no reason for it to cost what it does.
It's a gimmicky product aimed at people who think that more expensive means better.