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carbidave

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  1. carbidave

    Tyres

    Thanks again for all the inputs - i think I will go with original size and steer clear of the Dimax . I guess you get what you pay for and there is a considerable safety issue here. You never regret buying quality! Thanks all Dave
  2. carbidave

    Tyres

    Thanks all for your input, it is so useful to have information from people who have actual experience. I have always been a bit anti far-eastern tyres but I guess this is just prejudice - I see that many major tyre manufacturers now have plants in China. The next problem is size ! Any opinions on 185/70 both for appearance and rolling circumference? Thanks again Dave
  3. carbidave

    Tyres

    Hi , I am coming to the end of a rebuild on my 4A and I am trying to make a choice of tyres both size and make. Does anyone have experience of the Dimax Radar Classic? I like the appearance of them but would like to know if they are any good. Thank you
  4. Thanks for the info on the bonnet Stuart , that may well get me out of trouble - any idea on cost? I bought the car in 1975 and did 70,000 miles including a trip to Poland and then the crank broke and generally life got in the way of repair work and the car languished under a sheet for the next thirty years.I am not looking for concours just a sound driveable car - it has a lot of sentimental attachment. Thanks again all for the advice. Dave
  5. Thanks all for your input- the chassis is strengthened and painted so I can now fit and level the body. When the body repairs are finished I can then lift it off again - how do you feel about inverting the shell ? Does this put it under undue stress? The bonnet is in a poor state at the front , particularly the box section strengthener that the hinges mount to - this does not look easy to fabricate and I have tried the usual sources but I don't think any one is re-making them. (love your garage/ workshop Graeme!) Dave
  6. It is good to know there are people out there willing to give advice and moral support. Thanks guys! I know how to proceed now. Until the next problem ........ Dave
  7. I am restoring a 1965 4a , the body is off the chassis and is supported on trestles and timber. I would welcome any advice about the way to proceed. The door openings are braced and I have fitted a new floor , sills ,strengthened the B post and fitted new inner front wings. I have the Roger Williams book which says do one side at a time ,which I am doing, but he also stresses that the body must be built up on the chassis. I don't want to fit the body to the chassis until I have painted the underside and I would also like to turn the tub upside down to properly weld the floor and paint. I have
  8. Thanks all for the useful information- it's nice to know there are people out there that you rely on for information. Dave
  9. Hi Richard Look forward to receiving that information Thanks. Dave
  10. Can anyone give me the dimension from the floor to the centre of the seat belt anchor eyebolt on the B post . Corrosion means both B posts need replacement and the seat belt anchors have been professionally? repaired in the past at different heights. Your help will give my motivation a boost. Thanks
  11. Am just about to repair the cracks you mention now! Thanks all for the valuable information. Dave
  12. Hi Stuart and Alan, Thanks for the info - I suspect the rear section of the chassis has collapsed. I have another chassis to transfer the body onto, but hoped to strengthen the body before attempting to lift it off. I can now get on- Thanks again Dave
  13. Hi I am trying to fit new floor pans and have found that the floor won't come down to fit the existing sill edge properly. Have discovered that the rear section of the body has sagged such that the inboard rear wheel arch is sitting on the diff bridge and has been distorted by it. Can anybody advise on what sort of clearance to expect between the diff bridge and the body? Any advice much appreciated. Dave
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