Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral


  • Birthday 02/09/1949

Profile Information

  • Location
    Monroe, Connecticut USA

Recent Profile Visitors

226 profile views
  1. Success! The tool works very well. I did have a problem initially because I pushed down too hard and had to develop a technique. It took a bit of time to get back to the starting point (I pushed the main seal until it released from both the top and the window) but with care, all went well. Thanks all. Dave
  2. One picture is worth much more than a thousand words. I have ordered that tool. It is really helpful to see it at work. Many thanks. Dave
  3. Thanks again, Hamish. That tool is available here from Moss. Is that the type of tool you used or was it something similar? Do you remember which tip you used? Dave
  4. Thanks All, With my brother's help and using the Hamish method, we installed the rear window in about ten minutes. That was much easier than expected. However, after more than an hour, we could only install about 16 inches of the filler piece. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Dave
  5. Hi All, I have searched and found many hardtop related files but little on installing the rear window. Hamish suggested (from his first hand experience) that the top be on the car to keep it from moving. He also suggests the seal be installed into the top, then the window be positioned at the bottom of the opening and carefully levering the rest of the seal over the window. That sounds good to me. Do others who have installed the hardtop rear window have any additional suggestions? What is the best way to fit the seal filler piece? A special tool for the filler was mentioned. Can it be installed without that special tool? Thank you. Dave
  6. Hamish, Over the past 40 years I have had a great deal of success using a piece of light duty chain. Bolt one end (with a washer) to a clutch cover securing bolt hole in the flywheel and the other end (or one of the links. It does not have to be the end) to one of the transmission to engine securing bolt holes. It can be used also for torquing. Dave
  7. Hi All, Purchased my '57 TR-3 on March 7, 1968 in Lowell, Mass for $110.00. I was attending what was then called Lowell Tech (now UMass Lowell) and saw the car on a used car lot while we were walking to the local package (liquor) store. The car was built on January 1, 1957. Last year, its 60th birth year, I finished its restoration. It was a fun car for a college student and a fun car 50 years later. Dave
  8. Thank you Peter, Niall, and Qim. I will be testing the piston drop per your suggestion. The video is quite helpful. Dave
  9. Hi All, TS14998L is back on the road. As with Jonny Lu's car it has been off the road for 35 years.Its last trip in 1982 was memorable because I drove off with the hood (bonnet) not fastened which left me with a sore head and broken windshield. After several drives this week, I checked the mixture and checked the level of the fluid in the dash pots. After topping up the front carb, I noticed that the damper piston on the front carb seemed to slide into place with less resistance than the rear carb. While trying to diag the problem I noted that one damper piston was longer than the other (2.850 inch to 3.085 inch. However, switching their position (front to rear) did not cause the difference in resistance to change position. Further examination found that the tube on the needle piston( where the damper piston enters) on one carb had a consistent diameter from top down where the other had a larger diameter opening at the top which stepped down. Both needle pistons had the same part number. I believe the one with the stepped down tube was later production designed to allow the damper piston to slide into place more easily. From my supply of parts, I reassembled the system with matching parts using a short damper piston and stepped needle piston as found in most of my spare carburetors. The damper pistons now have the same resistance in both carbs. Overall, this probably has no affect on the engine operation but it kept me busy for a few hours. Does anyone have any ideas as to why the damper pistons and needle pistons have these differences? Dave
  10. Tom, The top hole on the clutch lever may solve your clutch issue. Although it will require more force on the pedal, it will move the TO bearing further for each pedal stroke. Dave
  11. Roger, Those are the only two Circlips in there. Repeated failures could indicate a problem with the thrust ring assembly or the end of the clutch where the second circlip fastens. The first holds the bearing into the thrust ring. The second secures the bearing to the clutch. Having rebuilt over 300 A-types, I have never seen the failure of those circlips. Dave
  12. Hello All, I am about to install the carpets in my 1957 TR-3.The biggest mystery is how the five pieces that make up the gearbox cover carpet were attached by the factory (TR-2 and 3 are very different from later cars). I would like to duplicate the factory method. I am sure some pieces were glued and some held with either screws or snaps. There are few holes in the gearbox cover to indicate placement of screws or snaps. That cover is original to the car and is in good condition.I have owned this car since 1968 and started the restoration last year. Also, was the slant back carpet glued in place by the factory? Thank you. Dave
  13. Stan, That is incredible, exactly what I need. Thank you. I will be off to Home Depot some 1/2 x 1/8. The holes for in the car for mounting the bridge pieces seem to be pre drilled so I can check to see if there needs to be a difference in the spacing for the back three. Staurt, Thanks for the tip on the mounting bolts. This is a tremendous help, and so quick. Thank you. Dave
  14. Hi All, I would like to fabricate some bridge pieces to mount my hardtop. It does not make sense for me to buy one of the kits that are available as I already have the windshield frame mounts and the capping plates.  In order to make the bridge pieces I need some dimensions such as: width of the metal thickness of the metal The height of the offset (raised part). Did the originals have captive nuts or was the metal threaded? Were all five of the bridges the same or were the back three different from the two side bridges?,  I have tried searching but did not find the information I need. Can anyone help? Thank you Dave
  15. Thanks for all the replies. The solution was a combination of suggestions. The extension would not fit in place without the hose . it was too long so it was shortened. Maybe my new felts were too thick. As suggested, I took several cuts off of the hose. It still needed To be shorter but I was worried about having enough material for the clamps so for the final solution I carefully used that 4x1 to give a little lift to the deck. In it went and all is good.Thanks again. The bypass hose on a MOPAR 225 was also a bitch! Dave
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.