AlexB
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Posts posted by AlexB
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Interested in people's techniques for starting their TR6PI when the engine is hot (i.e. been sat for 15 mins after a decent run) or been sat for a few hours on a hot day. I've had my car since 2013 and it's a very nice car in excellent condition. And it has the "underslung" throttle conversion from a well known source.
My car, a '73 PI, starts perfectly from cold with 3/4 choke most days and some light work with the throttle pedal. It's an excellent 'from cold' starter.
However... when warm, things get more interesting ....
1. After a 20 - 40 min run and say, after refuelling, it will start only (but reliably) with a quick and meaningful depression of the 'gas' pedal on turning the key. It won't start just by turning the key and a gentle nonchalant pressure of the gas pedal to the 1/3 or 1/2 mark. No. It needs to be "fired" back into life with a good squirt of fuel and will start robustly. Makes petrol station staff jump ! I quite like it (is that bad of me ?)
2. After a longish run, though, on a warm day, and after being sat there in the carpark for a few hours, the car definitely needs coaxing with a bit of choke and some exploration of the gas pedal.
It's been serviced religiously, and the PI set up and set up again and admittedly runs very well indeed, but come to starting on a warm/hot day and it is always interesting. Usually it is 3 - 4 goes to get the car running and it reluctantly starts despite good pressure, good alternator, plenty of battery power etc.
It's not a car that you can just relaxedly turn the key, apply a bit of gentle pressure and it bursts into life. Nothing like an MGB or any other comparable classic. Nope... the PI needs working to start when hot.
Judging by the MANY road tests I've read over the years, this seems to be the "devil in the detail" flaw cited by the car test reviewers with the PI, which most owners then and now experience(d) in some form or another.
Tough question, but is there a universal workable solution or is it the price we pay for owning the PI ?
ps: and don't say "carb conversion" unless you've done it and it changed things. I haven't driven it up any mountains either so that's an unknown too.
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I think a hard top really suits the car and gives it a distinctive profile. It's also very helpful for longer driving as it reduces the factors that can be tiring (e.g. wind noise, traffic noise, tyre noise) over distance. Yes, you lose the close-to-nature breeze-through-hair feeling, but you can take it off and replace it with your soft top at any time. It's a flexible adaptation.
I also like the idea of "preserving the original part" as this helps Triumph pasts remain alive and not end up in a skip.
As also mentioned, you do need to store it carefully as well as maintain it. I have become lazy and store it mainly on the car !
My soft top has an easy life wrapped up in the garage. 
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Mine was done with Ford Moondust Silver which came back very close to the TR6 colour originally supplied. I think it looks very nice indeed on the car. However, as a previous poster has indicated, Triumph probably went through various variants of the colour/shade over the years.
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Around 20 - 25 mpg. CR series/1973. Very consistent, too.
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I've always wondered how many of all TR6s produced were sold from the factory with a hardtop. Original Triumph factory hardtops seem to be harder and harder to find.
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Looks like the book is finally published and available from next week. It's being advertised on the internet currently.
Triumph TR6: The Complete Story Hardcover – April 25, 2016
by David Knowles (Author)
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Sorry...continuation...
but the question as to whether one must "apply" (in writing ?) to DVLA to change to black/white plates is a valid one. I don't know the answer to that.
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If when your annual road tax is due, the DVLA identify on your renewal form that the sum owing is "zero", then they have I believe already recorded/registered that the car is in the "historic" bracket.
It's also shown on Section 4 of your V5C where the words "Historic Vehicle" will be shown.
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If I read all these replies correctly (very interesting ones too
) a car registered after 1 Jan 1973 and before 1 Jan 1975 can be shod in whatever number plate combo the owner feels and could be according to the day of the week.... the DVLA document would appear to mean precisely that. How unusual and unexpected.This has been a very informative thread. I think that the mere fact that the rolling historic class permits the transition back to a black/silver plate (if the owner so wishes) does indicate that the government itself is trying to encourage a sense of "historic".
Thanks everyone who replied.... every opinion duly welcomed and advances knowledge/understanding which is itself the whole point of a forum I guess.
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Thanks gentlemen. It is that "old" end-of-1972 into early-1974 issue again which seems clear, then murky, then not quite so clear.
Les... I recall 1973 motorcycles with M reg being sent out from dealers with black/silver plates also.
An old friend (ex traffic police) advised me that many of the younger officers serving today weren't even born in 1973.
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Colleagues of the TR6 Collective...
I have a CR series TR6, 1973 (August). Have been tempted on occasion to fit the "olde" black/silver plates as opposed to the rather naff (in my view) white/yellow/black post Jan 1973 ones.
I have seen a reasonable number of "classic" M and N reg cars with such plates (nothing after that though).
Insurance advise that they have no issues with it in terms of affecting insurance.
Technically, it probably is "incorrect". I have seen modern cars with supremely "mangled" numbering (usually to spell initials or naughty words) none of which seem to attract much attention from the hard pressed constabulary.
So with that, is it "worth doing" or just not worth whatever residual risk it creates ? Is a classic car with the wrong colour numberplate (by 8 months) an "outlaw".
Would welcome what will probably be some very divergent views/opinions.
Thanks
Alex
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Hard top looks good all year round. It's a bit different. (Mine sitting at the Sparsholt Village Fete last Saturday where the organisers had "invited" the cars for the benefit/interest of the attendees.
Had a lot if interest from people in a certain "age range"
Hard top TR6s are pretty rare.
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Stuart. Is your implication that a rear bumper "worsens" the situation ?
I've read this thread with interest as I experience exactly the same symptoms as mentioned by all others here. I even changed all the rear light seals (for the boot) and replaced the original factory hardtop onto the car to see if that would improve things... gave a marginal improvement, as the TR6 is "leaky" to air and fumes anyway. I also placed 60 mm exhaust pipe extenders onto the exhaust pipes..again small improvement but really not enough.
I suspect that an even more extreme extension would do more but look very "interesting". I have to say that the current extenders make the car look unintentionally more "butch" but extending further might be boasting
Ah, yes, and put a much better rubber seal on the boot. Several TR6 "experts" have suggested putting weapons grade chunky rubber seals in place.There are others (dare I say) who have suggested that PIs run rich anyway and CO is an occupational hazard byproduct... and thus suggest "carbs" for driveability and PI for originality. Who can tell.
But a forum that keeps suggesting a discussion of possible solutions going is very welcome... keep the ideas coming.
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Hardtops are great, aren't they
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Thanks all. Looks like Jim has the very item I need and not too far away either.
Many thanks indeed to all who replied.
Alex
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One of my wheels (front near side) has shown up a very slight buckle and has had to be replaced by the spare wheel... (the buckled wheel now becoming the spare). Does anyone know either (a) where I could get the wheel repaired properly by a competent specialist, or (
where best to source a "new" TR6 wheel ?It's the "factory original" pepperpot style.
Many thanks.
Alex
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Well done, Andy. TR6 is a super car but the ownership experience is very much a rollercoaster of joy to despair and back to joy (hopefully). I call it "character building" in the old fashioned sense "
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Many thanks, chaps. All pointers and advice gratefully received and welcomed.
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Has anyone any experience of fitting an overhead linkage kit to improve balancing the throttle bodies on a 125 TR 6 ?
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Thanks Mike. I looked at their website and they do indeed appear to be Triumph specialists.
Thanks again.
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As per 97fm's request, anyone know whether there is a competent person or small business to do same in the Southampton/New Forest region ?
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Interesting.... in theory a downward pointing tailpipe still pushes out the waste aerosols but because of the aerodynamics of the particulate being deposited downwards, the car (at speed, at least) has a chance of going fast enough to be "just ahead" of the plume vortex. In town though, I suspect it's not as effective.
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I had a paper published in Atmospheric Environment many moons ago...... when I used to be a "real scientist" as opposed to an "administrative" one these days.
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Peter... yes, fully agree with your statement.
The "Rockshore" product looks interesting...... It has the downward pointing exhaust flange. Hmmm.
Starting a warm TR6 PI
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks for responses so far. All good sense advise and comments.
Graham...no, I have no stainless braided injector lines.