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About alaric

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  1. alaric


    No Slosh Seal. Never heard of it until now. Just Googled to find out what you were referring to. What is the link between Slosh and white gunge?
  2. My recent battle with the mysterious misfire was extended for a while when the bonnet was stuck in the closed position. Not caused by the usual cable problem. In my frustration with the misfire I allowed the bonnet to slam shut instead of lowering gently. It bit back and the pin and collar went beyond the tube on the underside of the latching mechanism, and stayed there. Fortunately TRGB's previous experience and expertise was able to spring it free again, much to my relief. I was at the point of believing that the only solution was the angle grinder! TRGB then fitted
  3. alaric


    Finally cured the misfire. It was a white gunge, consistency and appearance similar to silicon sealant. Not really sure what it was, but presume it was introduced in a bad batch of fuel? The bulk of the gunge was in the pipe between tank and carbs and because it was semi fluid it allowed only small quantities of fuel and compressed air to flow. After several attempts I believe I have finally got rid of it. Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.
  4. alaric


    RobH Reading those links has shattered my faith in German engineering! Externally, both my Bosch rotors look OK. RogerH Yes. Wilko's best 20-50.
  5. alaric


    To AlanR Yes, at first I thought it was an ignition problem, but the car has been fitted with a 123 electronic distributor for many years. No condenser. The 123 is built in a Bosch body and uses Bosch cap and rotor arm, original and recent replacement. Have never heard of Bosch producing duff stuff. To Dave No loss of power before misfire problem so I doubt worn cam (I had that with a fast road cam about 10 years ago, now running a standard TR4A profile). I will measure valve lift next time I take the cover off. Thanks to both
  6. alaric


    TR4 Misfire I have owned wetliner TRs since 1962 , my present TR4 since 1984 and thought I knew the engine fairly well. But I have a problem and have run out of ideas for fixing it. The car has always run well on SUs and a Facet fuel pump, and for the last 10 years or so with an electronic 123 distributor, but recently it has started to misfire badly. Starts promptly hot or cold, idles well and revs freely. Seems to run normally on very light throttle and will maintain 50mph on the level, but as soon as the throttle is opened to increase speed or climb a hill the misfire cuts in
  7. Although I am a long term wet liner owner, having bought my first TR3A in January 1963, and have been a Register member since 1984 for some odd reason I have never given the forum more than the occasional glance. However, since starting this topic just a couple of days ago I have been pleased and impressed with the volume and quality of the response it has had. Unfortunately, so far it has not so far pin pointed the source of the noise but #8 and #9 have been particularly helpful. The best description of the noise is in #8 'ball bearings' pinging around inside the manifold. Although I didn'
  8. Plastigage is a modern development of the traditional technique of 'Taking Leads', to measure clearance while scraping in a white metal bearing. Plastic replacing soft lead wire. As plastic is now seen as a major environmental hazard, should we revert to lead? Jason Wright demonstrated the 'new stuff' at the excellent Engine Seminar at TRGB last weekend as previously mentioned.
  9. Have run the engine this morning, with and without fan belt. Absolutely no difference in the noise. Will post a fuller reply later. Thanks for the interesting replies.
  10. Forgot to mention them, but changed the pistons/liners at the same time as the camshaft, about 10 years ago. Thanks for responses. Will run without fan belt in the morning. Dick
  11. My TR4 goes very well but for several years has suffered from a dreadful rattle/metallic knock/tinkle. At idle speed it sounds like a bag of bolts! The symptoms are ; Starting from cold, no noise. After 30-40 seconds the noise starts, long before the engine is hot. Increase the engine speed to 1300rpm and the noise stops. Restarting with a hot engine results in immediate idle noise. Engaging and disengaging the clutch does not alter the noise. I can't pin down the source of the noise by listening with a screwdriver and hose. A friend's acoustic device indicates that the noise is coming from
  12. I am not expecting modern car standards, but my wife in particular wants a bit more comfort that a hard sprung TR4 provides. Must start work on designing a pulley system in the garage roof for lifting, storing and lowering?
  13. Brain fade! Not sure why I got you and Ian mixed up in my mind, sorry about that. Thanks for the advice.
  14. Thanks Alec. I think a FHC with a glass sun roof that will stow in the boot may be the answer. Total change of subject, just to say how much I enjoyed your Works TR4 presentation at Baldock? a couple of years ago. Thank you again.
  15. Thanks Steve. Do not recall ever having seen on before, I must start taking a closer look at 7s. Any wind noise, negative issues? Regards
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