Andy Field
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Posts posted by Andy Field
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6 hours ago, Bfg said:
My first impression on reading this is that the wrong pulley (&/or pump) is fitted to your car. That of course can happen over 60 years of various owners. I've recently swapped mine because the pulley worked loose. Upon investigation I found there to be no woodruff key fitted. Fortunately my friend Rich happened to have just bought some to be refurbished and so we swapped the pulley, but the woodruff key was a different size. It got me home and then I swapped the pump to that from which the pulley came off. Here's a photo of that now fitted. . .
^ As you can see the pulley could not move back 5mm because it would foul the mounting studs. The belt I use is a 20 x 900 which I replaced for new last year.
I'm very fussy not to buy old-stock rubber parts and I'm sure this one is either from Continental or Gates. I presume by the fact that I had a choice of new rubber, means that this size is still used in other applications such as mobile generators or water pumps, &/or with factory machines. You can see how it fits into the Vee of the pulley.
^ this shows the dynamo adjuster on my car, happens to be rather too long. There's about 1/2" inward adjustment that allows the belt to come off and be refitted without prising ..albeit perhaps not very easily for those with slender hands. But you can also see the fit of the belt into the vee of that pulley.
One of the very great benefits of these wide belts is how slack they can be fitted ..without incurring slip. This in turn directly relates to less sideways loading on the bearings of either the dynamo and water pump. The belt's block-size means it doesn't flay around. I might only presume these belts proved to be adequately reliable and long lived in early TR competition.
Hope the photos help.
Pete
Hi Pete,
Thanks for the images. They will probably assist me in comparing pulley position with my own. I take it that your water pump pulley aligns with the other two? My belt will not come off without knocking off the water pump pulley and that cannot be right. Not sure whether the belt would even prise on/off even with the dynamo full slacked off. If you have a moment could you kindly measure the diameter of the dynamo and water pump pulleys so i can compare with my own - many thanks.
Cheers
Andy
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19 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Pulley position
Has the inside face of the pump that abuts the pump front bearing worn? Not uncommon if the pulley has run loose at some point and chattered on the shaft. Have a look inside the pulley to see what state the woodruff key slot is like. if worn replacement pulley may fix your issue. The pulley should not touch the end of the correct stud (3” long) that holds the pump to the pump housing on the engine.
Hi Peter,
I purchased the stud, to replace the bolt, from Moss so I presume it is the correct length and I did screw it into the block as far as it would go. The inside pulley will not not rub on the end of the stud when I position the pulley on the pump shaft in alignment with the other two pulleys. Only when I fully tighten the nut does the pulley move out of alignment (i.e. in towards the engine) and makes contact with the end of the stud. There was not an issue when the bolt was installed but I had not noticed the pulley mis-alignment then, however the inside of the pulley was making contact at the point where the shaft exits the pump (I dapped some white marker on the end of key slot). The woodruff key and slot are not worn and the pulley is tight on the shaft. Would the tension in the belt naturally align the pump pulley with the other two - otherwise how is the pulley aligned if there is no taper or shoulder on the pulley shaft? The pump and pulley appear to the correct items - it even has a grease nipple. I have purchased another pump and pulley but looking at it I am going to have the same issue (also came with no woodruff key)- so that's going back!
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19 hours ago, RobH said:
Yes mine is 965mm but I have an alternator with a custom- made smaller diameter pulley, so you may need something different.
Understood - thanks for the reply Rob
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54 minutes ago, RobH said:
I don't think you will find any direct alternatives to the 900mm x 20mm solid wide belt Andy. I use a 17mm BX section cogged belt - it sits a little deeper in the pulleys but is much more flexible than the standard one and they are available in a variety of lengths. e.g.:
Thanks for that Rob. Do you know length of belt you have fitted?
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33 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Ady
do you have the original thick bely or the modified thin belt??
The thin belt is easier to play with and there are many/various sizes. The thick belt less so
To get either belt on or off you sometimes need to use a lever to prise it over the pulley edge whilst rotating the pulley.
Before you swapped the bolt for a stud did everything fit. If so can't you simply reduce the stud length.
Is the pulley new??
What type of fitment does it have - taper shaft or straight shaft with a shoulder> If straight then can you space it out with a washer etc.
Roger
Hi Roger, the belt is the original 20mm wide version. The pump has a straight shaft with no shoulder so the inside part of the pump, where the keyway slot is, does appear to rub on the pump where the shaft exits the pump body when the nut is fully tightened. There seems to be a initial rubbing noise on starting the engine that I think comes from the metal to metal contact at that point. I have temporary fitted three fibre washers as a spacer to align the belt. This also clears the pulley from the stud. The spacer will need to be more substantial than the fibre washers I guess but I am wary of the metal to metal contact if I fit a steel spacer. I would have thought the pump shaft would have been tapered or shouldered. I had only noticed the belt misalignment when I was doing a winter strip down of the timing cover and crankshaft pulley etc for which I have another question about engine height in relation to the cross tube but that is for another day!
Thanks
Andy
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Apologies if this topic has been covered before. I have some issues concerning the water pump and belt on my 1962 TR4. To remove the belt, I have to knock of the water pump pulley as well as I cannot gain enough slack in the belt (20 x 900mm) to pull over any of the pulleys even with the dynamo in its closest position to the engine. If this is the norm is a longer belt available? I have also noticed that when I have fully tightened the pulley nut, the pulley is about 5mm inboard of the other two pulleys so the belt is angled inwards towards the engine on its route from the dynamo pulley to the water pump pulley. Should the pulley automatically locate in the correct position on the pump shaft? Also I have now replaced the bolt to the pump housing with a stud, however the inner face of the pulley will contact the end of the stud when the pulley nut is tightened fully. As far as I can make out, the pump, pulley, the dynamo mounting brackets etc all seem to be the correct items. Hope this makes sense! Ideas and solutions most welcome.
Many thanks
Andy
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6 minutes ago, Rob Salisbury said:
It's brutal but you have to carefully leaver the belt and turn the belt and all three pulleys to ease the belt off 1 of the pulleys (plugs out and use the blades of the fan), the next problem is getting the belt past the steering rack, loosen the engine mounts and jack up the front of the engine to gain clearance, reverse procedure to replace the belt.
Cheers Rob
Thanks Rob, I had wondered whether I had a bodged set up but from what you are saying it appears to be normal and brute force is required. I am sure I have changed the belt before and had no issue getting it past the steering rack, but having read many times that you need jack the engine up perhaps I have not. I have a spare so I will see if I can get it past.
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6 minutes ago, Z320 said:
Hi Andy,
yes, this is always a bit tight, but I never had to put the pulleys of.
The classic belt is a typ "20", 900 mm long, called so becauses 20 mm wide.
But this is not rocket technic and not every "20" is 20 mm wide, and 900 mm long is not always 900 mm long.
I own one "20", indeed 20 mm wide, another only 19 mm wide and easier to fit.
Look for another one, best a "Flennor 20X900", toothed and more flexible.
Ciao, Marco
Thanks Marco, I'll check the length of the belt and I have a look at the one you suggest.
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Hi,
My TR4 has the conventional set up of a wide fan belt and lucas dynamo. The dynamo cannot swing enough towards the engine to allow the belt to become clear of the dynamo pulley so as to remove and refit. Is this how it should be and the procedure then is to remove the dynamo pulley or water pump pulley to allow the removal/fitting of the belt?
Thanks
Andy
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Many thanks to everyone for your replies. From what you have said it I guess it is nothing to get really bent out shape about. I would think any future prospective buyer would understand the error once explained. As Michael stated 'enjoy driving the car'.
Regards
Andy
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Hi,
Following on from a MOT tester entering the wrong registration number into the system and having to sort that out, a possible problem has come to light regarding the Comm No. of my 1962 TR4. I believe that the Comm No. is 'CT9180 O'. However the VIN plate shows CT91380 which also stated on the V5C.
My questions are, how do I convince the DVLC to re-issue a V5C with the correct number without having to change the VIN plate stating that the 0 is in fact an O. Or would I have to get a new VIN plate showing 'CT9138 O'.
Would it be a problem if I left as is. Within the history file for the car CT91380 appears to have been referenced throughout.
Any advice welcome.
Thanks
Andy
Correction to post - I believe that the Comm No. is 'CT9138 O'.
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Hi,
Following on from a MOT tester entering the wrong registration number into the system and having to sort that out, a possible problem has come to light regarding the Comm No. of my 1962 TR4. I believe that the Comm No. is 'CT9180 O'. However the VIN plate shows CT91380 which also stated on the V5C.
My questions are, how do I convince the DVLC to re-issue a V5C with the correct number without having to change the VIN plate stating that the 0 is in fact an O. Or would I have to get a new VIN plate showing 'CT9138 O'.
Would it be a problem if I left as is. Within the history file for the car CT91380 appears to have been referenced throughout.
Any advice welcome.
Thanks
Andy
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Thanks for the pointers. I'll give them look at.
Andy
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Hi,
The TR4 has past the MOT with just one advisory which was a nearside track rod end with some slight play. Can anyone recommend a quality replacement fitted with a grease nipple.
Thanks
Andy
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Hi Andy,
have a look in the shop http://www.tr-registershop.co.uk/outdoor-half-cover-xs-size-ca-9884-p.asp
Roger
Hi Roger,
Thanks for that. I guess the shop would not offer it if did not fit a TR.
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Hi,
I noticed in the last edition of TR magazine that were images showing some TR4/5s with a rain/shower cover that fitted over the rear backlight and windscreen. Does anyone know whether tailor made ones for TRs are available or have adapted/used other off the shelf items.
Thanks
Andy
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Hi Andy,
I have the same situation with the passenger door handle on my TR4 and it turns out that a right door handle has been fitted to the passenger door which effectively means the door handle is upside down. By removing the link assembly I could open the passenger door from the outside.
Hope this sheds some light.
Regards
Andy
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Did some more measurements at the weekend and the screen needs to swing forward only about 5mm to allow the roof panel to fit. Once achieved this will also permit the windows to wind up fully without clashing with the edge of windscreen capping.
Thanks for all the information.
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If you alter the angle of the screen-frame the gap between the leading edge of the glass and the frame will be affected.
Possibly this is at present too small at the top?Lots of them are. If so correcting the gap and making the top fit is good.
Hi Alan,
Come to think about it, I seem to remember that the door window, when fully wound up, touches the top of windscreen frame. i will check at the weekend.
Thanks for the information.
Andy
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Hi,
I have acquired a 'surrey' steel roof panel and prior to any restoration work, I offered up it up for fitting. For it to fit, the top of the windscreen needs to swing forward about 10mm. My question is can the angle of the windscreen be altered and then fixed to allow fitting and removal of the roof panel without slackening the windscreen fixings every time?
Thanks Andy
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Andy,
I have found one of the plates.
If you send me a PM with an e-mail address I can forward a dimensioned sketch.
Regards, Richard
Hi Richard, I have sent you a PM
Thanks
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With not much luck, I have been trying to acquire the brackets to mount the Lucas 9H Windtone horns in my 1962 TR4. Therefore I have decided to make my own. With that in mind, would anyone be able to supply me with the dimensions of one. I know it would be easy just to knock something similar up, however I would like to get close to an original one in size and appearance. The bracket I am referring to appears to be 'stepped' in profile and is triangular in shape. In the Moss parts & accessories catalogue, the part is listed as GGE113.
Thanks
Regards, Andy
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Hi all,
Badfrog - Thanks for clearing up the 4lb/7lb pressure cap contradiction. At least I now know which is the correct one to fit.
Roger - I checked over the 7Ib pressure cap in so much I could press the spring. Perhaps I should purchase another one just to be sure. I have run the engine with the cap removed and could not see any bubbles. There does not appear to be any trace of oil in the coolant either. I have also done a compression test and all four readings were close on identical - not sure whether that confirms that the head gasket is OK.
Ian - Prior to this problem, I had renewed the hoses and swopped out my hose clips for T-bar ones. I first thought that they were not gripping enough when the hose first blew off at the point the engine inlet hose joins the vertical rigid pipe from the radiator. I reverted back to the original style wire clips, doubled up to be sure, then the hose blew off where the hose joins the radiator. The clip there is as tight as it can be.
As far as replacing the head gasket, there must be many makes on the market. Presume I am OK going with the normal suppliers like Moss & Revington. Also I have read that the wet liners can lift once the head is removed. Is there a recommended procedure to avoid this?
Regards
Andy
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Hi Badfrog,
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately with the 7lb pressure cap fitted, the coolant hose blows off. I decided to fit a 4lb pressure cap which is the rating specified in my workshop manual (which seems to contradict what you have stated). This change stopped the coolant hose blowing off. But as I have run the car for 5 years with a 7lb pressure cap with no problems there must be an underlying reason why the cooling system is being over pressurised.
Regards
Andy
TR4 Water Pump & Belt
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Thanks for the info Pete - very much appreciated.