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Andy Field

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Posts posted by Andy Field


  1. 6 minutes ago, Rob Salisbury said:

    It's brutal but you have to carefully leaver the belt and turn the belt and all three pulleys to ease the belt off 1 of the pulleys (plugs out and use the blades of the fan), the next problem is getting the belt past the steering rack, loosen the engine mounts and jack up the front of the engine to gain clearance, reverse procedure to replace the belt.

    Cheers Rob

    Thanks Rob, I had wondered whether I had a bodged set up but from what you are saying it appears to be normal and brute force is required. I am sure I have changed the belt before and had no issue getting it past the steering rack, but having read many times that you need jack the engine up perhaps I have not.  I have a spare so I will see if I can get it past.


  2. 6 minutes ago, Z320 said:

    Hi Andy,

    yes, this is always a bit tight, but I never had to put the pulleys of.

    The classic belt is a typ "20", 900 mm long, called so becauses 20 mm wide.

    But this is not rocket technic and not every "20" is 20 mm wide, and 900 mm long is not always 900 mm long.

    I own one "20", indeed 20 mm wide, another only 19 mm wide and easier to fit.

    Look for another one, best a "Flennor 20X900", toothed and more flexible.

    Ciao, Marco

    Thanks Marco, I'll check the length of the belt and I have a look at the one you suggest.


  3. Hi,

    My TR4 has the conventional set up of a wide fan belt and lucas dynamo. The dynamo cannot swing enough towards the engine to allow the belt to become clear of the dynamo pulley so as to remove and refit. Is this how it should be and the procedure then is to remove the dynamo pulley or water pump pulley to allow the removal/fitting of the belt? 

    Thanks

    Andy


  4. Many thanks to everyone for your replies. From what you have said it I guess it is nothing to get really bent out shape about. I would think any future prospective buyer would understand the error once explained. As Michael stated 'enjoy driving the car'.

     

    Regards

     

    Andy


  5. Hi,

     

    Following on from a MOT tester entering the wrong registration number into the system and having to sort that out, a possible problem has come to light regarding the Comm No. of my 1962 TR4. I believe that the Comm No. is 'CT9180 O'. However the VIN plate shows CT91380 which also stated on the V5C.

     

    My questions are, how do I convince the DVLC to re-issue a V5C with the correct number without having to change the VIN plate stating that the 0 is in fact an O. Or would I have to get a new VIN plate showing 'CT9138 O'.

     

    Would it be a problem if I left as is. Within the history file for the car CT91380 appears to have been referenced throughout.

     

    Any advice welcome.

     

    Thanks

     

    Andy

     

     

    Correction to post - I believe that the Comm No. is 'CT9138 O'.

     

     


  6. Hi,

     

    Following on from a MOT tester entering the wrong registration number into the system and having to sort that out, a possible problem has come to light regarding the Comm No. of my 1962 TR4. I believe that the Comm No. is 'CT9180 O'. However the VIN plate shows CT91380 which also stated on the V5C.

     

    My questions are, how do I convince the DVLC to re-issue a V5C with the correct number without having to change the VIN plate stating that the 0 is in fact an O. Or would I have to get a new VIN plate showing 'CT9138 O'.

     

    Would it be a problem if I left as is. Within the history file for the car CT91380 appears to have been referenced throughout.

     

    Any advice welcome.

     

    Thanks

     

    Andy

     

     

     

     

     

     

    post-12297-0-26949600-1533670822_thumb.jpeg


  7. Hi,

     

    I noticed in the last edition of TR magazine that were images showing some TR4/5s with a rain/shower cover that fitted over the rear backlight and windscreen. Does anyone know whether tailor made ones for TRs are available or have adapted/used other off the shelf items.

     

    Thanks

     

    Andy


  8. Hi Andy,

     

    I have the same situation with the passenger door handle on my TR4 and it turns out that a right door handle has been fitted to the passenger door which effectively means the door handle is upside down. By removing the link assembly I could open the passenger door from the outside.

     

    Hope this sheds some light.

     

    Regards

     

    Andy


  9. Did some more measurements at the weekend and the screen needs to swing forward only about 5mm to allow the roof panel to fit. Once achieved this will also permit the windows to wind up fully without clashing with the edge of windscreen capping.

     

    Thanks for all the information.


  10. If you alter the angle of the screen-frame the gap between the leading edge of the glass and the frame will be affected.

     

    Possibly this is at present too small at the top?Lots of them are. If so correcting the gap and making the top fit is good.

     

    Hi Alan,

     

    Come to think about it, I seem to remember that the door window, when fully wound up, touches the top of windscreen frame. i will check at the weekend.

     

    Thanks for the information.

     

    Andy


  11. Hi,

     

    I have acquired a 'surrey' steel roof panel and prior to any restoration work, I offered up it up for fitting. For it to fit, the top of the windscreen needs to swing forward about 10mm. My question is can the angle of the windscreen be altered and then fixed to allow fitting and removal of the roof panel without slackening the windscreen fixings every time?

     

    Thanks Andy


  12. With not much luck, I have been trying to acquire the brackets to mount the Lucas 9H Windtone horns in my 1962 TR4. Therefore I have decided to make my own. With that in mind, would anyone be able to supply me with the dimensions of one. I know it would be easy just to knock something similar up, however I would like to get close to an original one in size and appearance. The bracket I am referring to appears to be 'stepped' in profile and is triangular in shape. In the Moss parts & accessories catalogue, the part is listed as GGE113.

     

    Thanks

     

    Regards, Andy


  13. Hi all,

     

    Badfrog - Thanks for clearing up the 4lb/7lb pressure cap contradiction. At least I now know which is the correct one to fit.

     

    Roger - I checked over the 7Ib pressure cap in so much I could press the spring. Perhaps I should purchase another one just to be sure. I have run the engine with the cap removed and could not see any bubbles. There does not appear to be any trace of oil in the coolant either. I have also done a compression test and all four readings were close on identical - not sure whether that confirms that the head gasket is OK.

     

    Ian - Prior to this problem, I had renewed the hoses and swopped out my hose clips for T-bar ones. I first thought that they were not gripping enough when the hose first blew off at the point the engine inlet hose joins the vertical rigid pipe from the radiator. I reverted back to the original style wire clips, doubled up to be sure, then the hose blew off where the hose joins the radiator. The clip there is as tight as it can be.

     

    As far as replacing the head gasket, there must be many makes on the market. Presume I am OK going with the normal suppliers like Moss & Revington. Also I have read that the wet liners can lift once the head is removed. Is there a recommended procedure to avoid this?

     

    Regards

     

    Andy


  14. Hi Badfrog,

     

    Thanks for the response. Unfortunately with the 7lb pressure cap fitted, the coolant hose blows off. I decided to fit a 4lb pressure cap which is the rating specified in my workshop manual (which seems to contradict what you have stated). This change stopped the coolant hose blowing off. But as I have run the car for 5 years with a 7lb pressure cap with no problems there must be an underlying reason why the cooling system is being over pressurised.

     

    Regards

     

    Andy


  15. Hi,

     

    After about a mile of driving my 1962 TR4, the coolant hose from the engine block to the radiator was blowing off and subsequently all the coolant was dumped. I did notice that the pressure cap was rated at 7lbs. I changed it for one rated for 4lb, as per the cars specification, and the hose no longer blew off. However the 7lb rated cap has been on the car since I purchased it in 2008 and I have never had this problem before. Also the 4lb cap is lifting and dumping coolant via the overflow pipe. I have replaced the thermostat and carried out a compression test - all four cylinders have identical readings. The car does not overheat and there does not appear to be signs of oil in the coolant. After the latest long run I removed the spark plugs and noticed what appears to be rust deposits covering the plug ends which you could wipe off with your finger. There was previously, the classic 'mayonnaise' on the inside of the rocker cover but I put that down to the short runs I had while the hose was blowing off. There were no signs of the 'mayonnaise'

    after the latest long run.

     

    Any pointers to where the problem may lay would be very much appreciated.

     

    Thanks

     

    Andy


  16. Thanks Guy,

     

    A switch for a boot light crossed my mind but i dismissed it because the boot has external hinges. However looking at the image you supplied appears to confirm what you suggest. Perhaps new fuel tank mounting brackets were fitted when the car was restored in the early 80s and they were from a TR6.

     

    Andy


  17. Hi,

     

    I wonder if anyone can enlighten me to what this fitting is on my 1962 TR4. It is located on the right hand side fuel tank mount (viewed looking forward). The fitting is visible adjacent to fuel tank mounting bolt shown in the attached image. There is not one on the left hand side however there is provision to mount the fitting. I cannot see it listed in any of the parts catalogues I have.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Andy

    post-12297-0-78406500-1374599920_thumb.jpg

    post-12297-0-78406500-1374599920_thumb.jpg

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