PaulAA
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Posts posted by PaulAA
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Niall, maybe it should have been in 2017 as that would have been the 50th anniversary of the first TR6 styling prototype? Seriously the introduction to the public is the anniversary that the TR Register has always recognised as the one to use for all of the TR models and no reason to change it now.
cheers
Derek
"one window good, three windows bad"
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Dave, That may be so but I'm thinking specifically about an event in the UK, where the TR6 was first shown to the media on 10th January 1969 and officially announced on the 14th January 1969. The car was first available to the public from April 1969. So in my view, here in the UK, I'm taking 1969 as the anniversary year.
Perhaps you could encourage the TRR to celebrate with a set of these:
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Super, Steve - much appreciated.
Thanks
Paul
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Hi Steve
Now that sounds like a solution rather than a bodge.
You wouldn't happen to have a link, would you?
Cheers
Paul
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Chaps
As part of the winter project dash refreshment, I'm replacing the old 789 lamps with LEDs. However, I see that the lamp holders' threading amounts to two pressed 'creases', one on either side. I also see that the edison screw on the (reputable-source) LEDs is fractionally shallower than the outgoing 789s and the ferocious spring loading is simply pushing the lamps past the holder thread.
Are there any natty tricks for increasing the 'crease' grip on the lamp, without having to remove each and every holder? I've tried pinching the holder onto the lamp thread and have so far ruined one lamp holder and one led lamp.
Thanks
Paul
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edit
Neil
Why have you removed the two images you posted?
Paul
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Richard
No problem - hope it helps.
Paul
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Richard
Side-by-side comparison with a 219019 casting. This one is skimmed and measured at just over 9:1 (the crease in the combustion chamber touches the face approx 2/3 across the water way - red line). Shape looks pretty similar, though.
Paul
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Thank you, Peter C & MESteve (various posts between #38 & #53) - a lot learnt!
Cheers
Paul
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Steve, Charlie
Many thanks - will try both and let you know if I have any success.
Cheers
Paul
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Chaps
A bit more advice, if you can.
A previous owner had evidently fiddled with both of the big dials. It seems that the warning light lenses had broken away from their stubs, which are still buried in the rubber light hoods, and glued them messily to the dial face itself. The gluing has made quite a mess of the contact faces and I would like to replace them, but I cannot find a source.
Any ideas where I might be able to buy all four (main beam, turn, ignition & oil pressure) in the right colours? I've sent an enquiry to Caerbont Automotive, but I think they sell complete instruments rather than parts, no?
Cheers
Paul
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Hi Alec!
I have to agree with you with what you have said above! Regarding cam shafts: unfortunately many fellow TRers went down the route of regrinds on camshafts which is not going to give long service as the regrinding takes away the hardness layer and these camshafts were not reheat treated. This is why they failed and there is no oil that would stop that. Moss do not offer this type anymore but have gone to new chilled cast iron blanks only, I wonder why?
Bruce.
Hi Bruce
In a similar vein... Leonard Renkenberger's ancient 6-TECH document on 74tr6.com concludes with the advice not to pull the choke out immediately on a cold car, but to let the engine do a few turns on the starter and get the oil circulating before ignition.
Much to be said for that.
Cheers
Paul
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Paul -- you haven't mentioned that your dial already has kph indicators inside the mph outer scale. What's wrong with just focusing on those rather than the headache of making stickers?True, Don, but the figures are small and I'm finding that dodgy eyesight (excellent long distance, but slow to re-focus on near objects) is a hindrance. That and a touch of pedantry, not easily assuaged by the gainsayer my post attracted.
Cheers
Paul
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This is more than a vulgar sticker if you read the explanations, and for 60 EUR i wouldn't bother, really.
Erm......... am I being chastised?
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Interesting... neither Gulf Classic nor Castrol Classic give any data in their literature about ZDDP. Foolishly, I bought 5litres of Gulf Classic 20W50 last month without inspecting the tin properly.
Gulf do not provide a figure on their website. Not do they offer a data sheet for this particular oil.
Castrol offers a data sheet, but there is no mention of the ZDDP content. It seems that both companies may be marketing their oils on the basis of reduced detergents and a nefarious reference to 'anti-wear additives' qualifying them as 'classic' oils.
Cheers
Paul
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Paul. I can see your point at 60 Euro, who was that from?
Bruce.
The one that Stef identified:
http://www.heiler-tachodesign.de/Triumph-TR-5/6
Paul
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Hi Paul
I think it's demi. What you have to remember is that this was done pre digital so the quality won't be as good as you will get now. Also the process they used will have had an effect on the final finish. There will have been some loss of sharpness when the artwork was processed and it was probably screen printed so again some loss there. You may have to play around with the font to get it to look as bold as the original clock.
Rog
Thanks Rog - that's the beast! I'll knock up a vector file and anybody else who wants to convert their ex-US 3.7 diff speedo to KPH will just need to get the file printed locally.
Edit: thinking further, I will need to identify just the right shade of 'slightly nicotined white' to match the aged digits on the tachometer...
Cheers
Paul
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Hi Paul,
Speak directly to the Technical Dept. of Caerbont Automotive Instruments who have all the original Smiths Instruments Drawings and Tooling as they produce exact copies of the originals Phone Number 01639 732200. Good Luck,
Bruce.
Hi Bruce
I looked at their website, but I think creating the graphic is an interesting challenge and will avoid the risk of removing the pointer and scratching the japanned screwheads. And bang next door to my office is an excellent print shop, who will undoubtedly rise to the challenge. The trick would appear to be the type of vinyl it is printed on, so that it doesn't lift off the slightly dished speedo face.
This was the inspiration for having a go myself - Euro 60.00 for a replacement sticker is a little rich, methinks.
Paul
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Roger, Ed
Thanks for this. Do you happen to know which Eurostile weight/compression it is? BQ appears to be right for the TR6 logo, but it looks too bold/extended for the speedo, as below.
Cheers
Paul
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Chaps
Since it has turned rather cold and nasty and the forecast is more of the same, I've started on one of my winter projects, to refurbish the dashboard dials.
Being a US model, the speedometer is measured in mph and I intend to knock together a graphic for the outer ring of the face, denominated in kph, and have it printed on self-adhesive vinyl.
To achieve authenticity, does anybody know what font is used for the numerals?
Cheers
Paul
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Hi
On YouTube I follow some great classic car enthusiasts who are generous with their time and knowledge by posting how to videos and resto jobs start to finish
Some are members here cheftush etc
But I have been following Elin doing an overdrive overhaul following a previous bodge job by others.
This is the first and there are about 9 -10 others.
In 10 to 20 minute instalments.
Many of you will know all this but I found them really good.
I understand cheftush and Elin are in Canada so the new updates are there ready and waiting in the mornings
My only connection is that I follow their channels so I expand my knowledge ( and see what the weather is doing over there)
H
Hamish
Agreed - I stumbled upon Elin's on-going series about six months ago and they are most enlightening (and engaging) for an armchair engineer like me.
Cheers
Paul
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Hi Lancerman
There are various companies that will supply you with a kit such as Andrew Turner or Burlen fuel systems. It is an easy job to do providing you have a fairly standard engine speciation,.
Having said that I did my car 20 years ago and was never 100% happy with the results, last year I realised my new SU carburetors were worn out (no surprise really after 2 decades). So I rebuilt my old Strombergs which was quite successful, since then I found a pair of new Strombergs and would not go back to SUs on the TR6
George
It's also an easy job if you have digressed from a fairly standard engine specification. It's getting it right that takes time and effort.
Balancing between appropriate needle, correct tuning and best ignition profile seems to be far more of a challenge... but a rewarding voyage of discovery for a dope like me.
Paul
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Hi Dennis,
have a look in the buyers guide http://www.tr-register.co.uk/tr-buyers-guides/triumph-tr6
Roger
Hahaha! I'd not noticed how apposite the choice of the second picture is. I'm glad my wife didn't see the 'deep water' sign before I clicked on the 'send money' button!
Paul
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Possibly the biggest advantage of the SUs is the very wide range of needle availability, making it more possible to get the right match on a modified engine.
Nick
Nick
It's a double-edged sword... the very size of the range is the real challenge to making the best choice, no?
Paul
Any Legal Lads or Lasses out there? Or Sailors.
in General TR Technical
Posted
Saggy
That looks remarkably like a Dragon class. A very pretty boat. And I am now depressed...
Paul