keith1948
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Posts posted by keith1948
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Adding fuses is not the answer. The problem lies in the fact that the full power to the headlights goes through the lighting switch and the wiring runs up under the steering column. If you fit the Moss headlamp relay kit then less power goes through the light switch wiring. It also makes the headlamps brighter. (Standard sealed beams). Here are links to the 4A wiring diagram and the Moss kit instructions.
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/pdf/117-515_instructions.pdf
I have fitted this kit on my 4A some years ago and it has worked fine for some years. The car also has the original loom from 1965. I think the wires used then were slightly larger cross section than the modern looms but I stand to be corrected. Little bits of the wiring have been replaced as and when required.
Keith
p.s. I have never been a fan of wrapping all the wires together in a loom. As you have discovered one faulty wire becomes several when a fault develops. I live with it on the TR.
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We have a Franco Belge Montfort (made in UK). It is rated 5kW and comes in different colours.
With regard to your smoke problem, do you have an air brick because to allow smoke up the chimney you need fresh air to enter the room. Maybe trickle vents in the windows? Below 5kW you don't have to have an air brick. Above 5kW you do. You need to size the stove according to the size of the room. We have a small living room and up to 5kW is plenty. You must have a smoke and Carbon monoxide alarm. The hearth should extend 12 inches in front of stove. There are also other regulations regarding proximity and construction of surroundings. Worth checking you still comply with latest info.
Franco Belge brochure
http://www.countywoodburningcentre.co.uk/stove-brochures/franco-belge-stove-brochure.pdf
We also got a stove top fan that sits on the flat top and propels air into the room. We were sceptical this would work but it does. There are several types available. We got a Valiant. It helps circulate the warm air into the room.
Our old brick chimney was lined with the pumice pipe system. If the chimney is too wide you won't get as good draw of air up it.
Hope this helps
Keith
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I recently got a speedo where the rubber seal and instrument to dash gasket were missing or disintegrated. I found this supplier https://speedoheads.co.uk that supply all kinds of classic car stuff. Check out their website.
The 5 inch instrument to dash gasket is part number SH05SQ. It is square section.
The Bezel to glass seal is 4mm diameter and part number SH04SP and there is enough to do 2 dials. It comes as a length. To make the circle you can just superglue the ends together or even just butt them together at the bottom.
Take care if you need to bend the tabs a bit to remove and replace the bezel to glass seal.
Keith
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The capping strips were covered in topic "Surrey top fixing hooks" Nov 16th 2018. I attached photos of the different capping strips in one of my replies.
Sorry I can't see how to link directly to the topic from here
Keith
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Hi Chris
Note that from a safety point of view the TR4A seats do not lock down onto the runners. I replaced mine for TR6 seats which both recline and lock in place.
Keith
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On the face of it a good idea to compare suppliers parts but to do proper testing requires a large enough sample of each item for a statistically valid comparison. Sampling is a complicated process as anyone in quality control in a production environment will tell you. We also tend to report items that are sub standard but under report good items
I like the idea that George suggested in post before mine of a list of bits from other cars that will fit a TR. I can start that list off with a couple of items. Across Europe there are many old tractors with Lucas dynamos that will fit a TR. Just swap over the closed end plates for vented ones. Also an older Massey Ferguson top hose will fit a TR. Some agricultural machines use the thick fan belts. Many cars from the 1960's/70's have headlamps, bulbs, relays, that fit TR's. I have a Stanpart TR4A parts catalogue (ISBN 0 907 073 956) that lists several old vehicles that used TR parts. What would be useful would be parts from more modern cars that would fit but I think the list might be small. I have enough trouble finding parts to fit a 20 year old Mini one and a 25 year old MK4 Ford Fiesta. These days it is the fashion for parts to be unique to a particular model and year of vehicle. Back in the day you could use bits from many marques that were interchangeable.
Keith
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Check the diff mounts at the top to see if they have cracks or splits. Also check the damper mounting bolts are secure.
Keith
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If the vent is closed when this happens there should not be water in the plenum. My guess would be the windscreen seal leaking near the corner. Just get a jug of water and pour it on the windscreen and see what happens. It could also be the screen assembly to body seal.
Keith
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Interesting points but my vision is fine without specs for long and short vision, I don't have glaucoma or cataracts. Only the LED headlamps cause me an issue and the yellow tinted specs help reduce the glare of those by reducing the intensity of the spike in the blue end of the spectrum.
People with glaucoma and/or cataracts would have problems with all headlights, not just LED's. And I agree that these conditions should be dealt with by a decent optometrist.
Since retiring and doing far less computer work my eyesight has improved considerably, particularly my long sight. Driving at night is not an issue except for LED glare. 'Ordinary' headlamps don't cause me a problem.
So I shall continue with the yellow tinted specs since they seem to work. Each to their own.
Keith
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There has been a Government response to the online petition.
https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/653793
Don't expect too much (or anything).
Meanwhile still using the yellow anti glare specs. I think they help. It is interesting that they show which cars have LED's and which don't from the colour of the headlights.
Keith
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I guess with modern car electrics it is not possible to fit a battery isolator switch as on a TR because the on-board computer requires power at all times. There is the option of fitting 'ordinary' old fashioned key operated locks to all doors but that would require drilling holes in the doors. A steering wheel lock might deter them. Some cars have fibre optic cables now so fitting a manual switch into the circuitry would be a challenge.
Maybe on an electric car there could be an option to use the extra battery power to rig up an electric shock device?
Not sure if a tracking device would help because you would be able to see your car disappear across Europe or Africa but do little about it.
It is almost as if the manufacturers have designed in the ease of theft so they can sell more cars?
Oh for the 'old days' when your car key would often fit other cars!
Keith
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Note that there are two different cappings. The narrower one is for the drop head top only. For the Surrey and hard top the capping is wider so that the front of the Surrey can tuck underneath. You may well have to ease up the front lip of a new capping so that the front of the Surrey soft top can tuck underneath fully. The wider capping can also be used for the drop head top. They do get marked and scratched over time but yours does look a bit 'tired' at the ends.
Keith
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I have a cigarette lighter socket under the dash on my TR into which I can plug a USB socket. I have a tyre inflater that can plug into the cigarette lighter socket and a phone that can plug into the USB. Obviously could not plug both in at same time but unlikely to want to do that. Retaining the cigarette lighter socket allows me both options.
Keith
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I have found it helps to put the coil of trim in a bucket of hot water. Put some washing up liquid on your finger and rub it along the rubber. Then with trim warmed up it should fit easily.
Keith
p.s. assuming you have correct trim!
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21 hours ago, phil Dean said:
Do you mean as arrowed here in yellow not red see both pics.
Hi Phil
Referring to your top photo, the central disc arrowed in yellow should have a 1.5mm hole in it approx 10mm from centre and 20mm from the edge. It looks like a new centre on yours held in place by the R clip. Mine is original held in place by a star lock washer. The hole is there as a breather hole. A 1.5mm hole drilled anywhere on the inner raised part would suffice.
Keith
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Hi Phil
There is a rubber anti-rattle ring on the fuel level float but that is O-ring shape without a groove. Is it the remains of a seal to the fuel cap? The gasket seal to the sender is flat so wrong shape. I think Stuart and Mike might be right. The seal between the filler neck and the deck although profile not quite as I remember.
Keith
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Take relay off car. Put power across W1 and W2 and you should hear the relay click on and off if it is working. You could just put the meter across C1 and C2 to check that power across W1 and W2 switches C1 to C2. If you tell us what numbers and letters are stamped on the relay then we can identify what you have. If it works on the bench then refit to car and check wiring. Your relay should be the 'normally open' type. 6RA is simply a generic number for a range of relays. The numbers starting 33 or SRB identify which is which.
Keith
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Hello Phil
Use a length of clear plastic hose, put your finger over one end. Insert the other end into the fuel tank and find the 'slug'. Release your finger and petrol will come up the pipe. Put your finger over the end and hopefully you will be able to get the pipe out of the tank before the 'slug' escapes. If your pipe is long enough you could suck the petrol up but don't get it in your mouth. There are gadgets you can buy for siphoning petrol but a length of tube should be enough.
It may be something from the garage fuel pump/tank rather than something from the gasket.
From your description it sounds like you have the Cohline tube all the way from the tank to the engine bay or is it just from under the bulkhead. If you have metal pipe between tank and front of car then usually there is a rubber connection where the pipe runs along the nearside chassis almost above where the nearside drive shaft is located. Is that ok and also Cohline?
Keith
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Heater vent?
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If the problem is still there with the second master cylinder then (assuming that is ok) it must be something related to the new wheel cylinders. Check that the brake pipes are secured properly to the wheel cylinders. Bleed the cylinders but push the pistons right back so less chance of air being trapped inside. Make sure the bleed screws are tight. My guess is that one of the connections or a bleed screw is allowing air back into the system when the brake pedal is released. It is easier for air to leak into the system than fluid to leak out so you may not see a fluid leak. I use an Eezibleed rather than having someone pumping the foot pedal to bleed the brakes.
Keith
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I would try penetrating oil and try to turn it one way then the other a few times. Then more oil, leave it a few hours and repeat the process. Once you get it to turn a bit continue with the oil and turn backwards and forwards, gradually easing it out. Then retap the hole as others have said. It should move unless the other end has been damaged.
Good luck
Keith
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Just in case anyone was wondering I am back off the roof now. Nice sunny day and no wind to speak of. I was only 20 feet or so off the ground.
Here is Fred Dibnah erecting a chimney scaffold at 200 feet above the ground.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3ma9iYx4rg
Somewhere I remember finding a video of him putting up the ladders to get over an overhang.
As a teenager I once worked as a scaffolder and that scared me to death at times especially when it was wet and windy. No safety ropes but just a hard hat so I would be ok if I fell off head first.
Keith
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Oh well - I am just about to get the extending ladder out to go up on the roof and fix a leak. 15 minute job.
For those with a nervous disposition here is Fred Dibnah showing how to climb a chimney. Don't suppose he got many Elf n Safety bods up there to tell him what he should be doing!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R3-YwDZrzg
Keith
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One big problem that can occur when re-assembling these yolks is one or more of the needle rollers falling over as you push the central part into the cap. It is then impossible to push them completely home and you have to take them apart again. You need decent circlip pliers as well. I use a smear of WD40 on the caps and push them home using a bench vice but a suitable sized G clamp can also work. Make sure there are no burrs on the yolk. They should slide together reasonably easy but not so loose that they spin. It is one of those jobs that should be straightforward and often isn't. I never reuse UJ's after taking them apart because I usually end up damaging them.
Keith
anti-glare night driving glasses
in General TR Technical
Posted
Latest on this issue in the news. Research into causes of dazzle to be set up
https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/government-to-launch-study-to-find-out-why-drivers-are-increasingly-being-dazzled-by-headlights/ar-AA1nDJFW?ocid=mailsignout&pc=U591&cvid=7fe48f5d11324c1985ca3a0ef3a247bf&ei=58
Keith