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Lebro

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Everything posted by Lebro

  1. Agree the ratchet teeth look ok, you probably need to remove the pawl from the lever & re-shape it to give a better lock into the ratchet. It does come out. Have you removed the pin that the pawl pivots on ? with that out you should be able to detach the button from the rod. Don't know what the hole is for ! Bob
  2. Hazard warning. This is easily achieved once you have LED flashers, & compatible flasher unit. All you need is a 3 pole change over switch, here are two types of different sizes to choose from. I use the small one, & it is hidden under the dash. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264269001947?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131898614717?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 And a small amount of wiring: This is my wiring, I think your "indicator warning lamp" is wired diff
  3. You pays you money etc. I bought a hood stick cover from Moss, it was not wide enough to be fitted. I got a refund, bought a Rimmers one it fitted ok. I have bought quite a few things from Rimmers over the years, generaly they have been ok. TR shop is still my 1st port of call. Bob
  4. I see what you mean, maybe it does not go right into the chassis, but is attached to the plate through a third hole. & secured with the nut. Been a while since I had mine off ! Bob
  5. The big bolt (item 22 in diagram) goes right into the chassis, & will need to be undone. Bob https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/hand-brake/handbrake-tr2-4-1953-65.html
  6. An LED compatible flasher unit, being electronic, will have a constant flash rate regardless of the load. They will also be more reliable than an ancient bimetalic type with pitted / rusted contacts ! & yes, the resistor is just wasting power. My recommendations: LED compatible flasher unit https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/indicator-relays-electronic/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-classic-car-with-oe-click-x-l-p-2-3-pin Headlamp conversion kit to H4 LED https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/sb7014-sealed-beam
  7. Pete. Sounds like you will have a bespoke wiring loom when you are finished. Regarding LED bulbs, I can certainly advise on the best ones to use (in my opinion), I do not make any of them myself, I only to the rear bulbs for sidescreen cars. You don't need the resistors over your front indicators if you use an LED compatible flasher unit. I will put together a list of suggested bulbs, & post on here. Bob
  8. Most shoe repairers also cut keys, & some (Timspsons etc ) have got some fancy kit to copy the RFID chip code. Having said that they failed to copy the code in my my Fiat Sceicento key. Bob
  9. Just seen this - hope you are having a good one Andrew Bob
  10. I can get to mine from the engine side with a cranked ring spanner Bob
  11. Decided not to make the specials to fit TS2's (now modified to take other LED bulbs) rear tail lamps for the following reason: Roughly half way down the red glass lens of the repro units (which I belive TS2 is fitted with) is a moulded magnifying lens, which is on the same horizontal plane as the filament in the original bulb position (sloping downwards). Phil has re-positioned the bulb holder to be nearer the top (I assume) & now horizontal. Thus the bulb filament (or LED cluster) will now not be in line with the magnifying lens. With this setup any bulb I make will perform no bett
  12. Spoken to Phil. Ironically TS2 was fitted with repro rear lamps, with the angled down bulb holder, but he has altered them to be horizontal in order to fit the bulbs he had been given to use, as they were no good as they were. ! So I now will make another pair to fit the modified repro lamp. Ahrrrrrrrrr ! Never mind, the others can go into stock. Bob
  13. Seems the repro L471's are different to the originals. Question is what does TS2 currently have fitted ??? Can't raise Phil to find out, so will try later. Bob
  14. I happen to know from a friends E type, fitted with Opus ignition, that there were some serious ballast resistors used with it, the coil actually ran on considerably less than 12 volts, so I don't think this one would be suitable Bob.
  15. That's odd, talking to Phil today He was saying the opposite ? maybe I miss heard. I have (I believe) the same lights ( L471) on my Hillman, they are at the same angle as the later L549 lamps. If you are right Peter I would have to make a couple of specials, but that would be OK. They would look similar to the center stop / number plate bulb, but not have any white LED's, & would have the extra circuitry to include the brake light feature. Bob
  16. Perhaps the balls are small to start with, but swell up when in contact with oil ? Bob
  17. Those 1st two should read 8.0 ohm not 0.8. A 0.8 ohm coil would destroy the unit instantly ! The 3 ohm one could well have damaged the accuspark electronics Bob
  18. Not wishing to get involved in the politics but - Speaking to Phil this morning, he said that he had no say in the choice, he was told what to fit. (I don't know who by) Bob
  19. There may be hope yet. Had a (very) long chat with Phil this morning, he is trying to fit the already purchased bulbs to TS2 and is not that happy with them. I am going to send him a set of mine, & he will take it from there (politics permitting !) Bob
  20. "Normal" (as in original to tr's) flasher unit relies on a bimetalic strip heating up as a result of current passing through it. The more current the hotter it gets, & so the flash rate slows down, as it takes longer to recover. Fitting one filament bulb & one LED type will result in a flash rate a bit faster than usual, but probably acceptable. two LED bulbs would make it flash even faster, or not at all. I would always recommend a modern led compatible unit as the flash rate is constant. https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/indicator-relays-electronic/products/12v
  21. Me too, I run an 88°C stat all year round with no problems, gauge comes up to just under 185°F unless in traffic, fan kicks in at 92°C if I don't switch it on myself (which I usually do)
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