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Lebro

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Posts posted by Lebro

  1. Hi Steve.

    It's not possible for synchro to work going up, but not going down, what is happening is the synchro is worn, & not working very well, going up through the gears is much less demanding of the synchromesh, as when the clutch is down the input shaft (& laygear) slow down naturaly towards the speed required to mesh nicely in the next higher gear. When you change down the opposite is true, the input shaft needs to speed up.

    It does sound as if your box is a TR box as the saloon boxes did not have overdrive on 2nd gear.

    I would look into having your gearbox overhauled rather than buying another (unknown ) box.

    Bob

  2. It's only free if you spend £30, or if you have a business account.

    I used to have one (from work) & it still worked after I retired for some years, but sadly no more.

     

    Online orders

    For business account customers, delivery is free on all orders. For private accounts and guest checkout customers, delivery is free for orders over £30. ¹ For orders under £30, there is a charge of £4.95.

     

    Bob

  3. Richard.

    Ready for collection, or I could try & post them.  For information, there was a "blown" transistor (mosfet) in the charger, possibly due to the unsmoothed DC being applied to it from the damaged mains power "brick".

    The charger works by applying a full charging current (340mA) for approx 3 hours, it then drops to a much lower current, which can be left on for a much longer period (say overnight)  The battery has all cells replaced with new.

    By the way Keith, I tied the website you suggested, but was not able to order anything from it, & failed to contact them in anyway, I think they may no longer be in business.

     

    Bob

  4. Hi Dave.

    As you say, if the thermostat was stuck shut the car would definately overheat.  It sounds to me that the thermostat is doing it's job very well.

    If you are still concerned, check the temperature gauge accuracy by removing the sender, & dunking it in a pot of warm water, along with a known good thermometer, add boiling water to it, & compare the readings as it gets hotter.

    Bob

  5. It's only an issue with twin HS carbs, because on the front carb the float chamber is above the carb, but on the rear one it is below. H type carbs have both float chambers ahead of the carb, so the same setting will apply to both.

    Having said that the actual level is not critical within reason, The 7/16" gap setting should be fine for both.

    Bob

  6. On HS6's the front float chamber is higher with respect to the bridge of it's carb than the the rear one due to the engine being slanted up at the front.

    if your floats are both on the high side then it will be the front one which will flood first. Normally float height is not that critical, but you could (as I have) deliberately set the front one a bit lower than the back one.

    Bob

  7. Yep, the parts I have are the same TR3 & 3A  Only difference is the steering column, which is split in front of the bulkhead on later 3A's

    Parts are here (Leatherhead) when you want them.

    Bob.

    P.S.  You don't appear to be a TR Register member, think about joining - lots of benefits.

  8. For the technically minded, The charger is not, as I had assumed, a Delta voltage type, but is in fact a timed charge at "high" current, dropping to a trickle charge after a set period of time. The timer function is done with a digital chip CD4541BM. This is reset on connection of the battery, & runs for a period of time governed by an RC network (clock) & a programmable counter. Having restored it's power supply to be DC only ! It does not ever time out, so a little more work required, but I will get there.

    Bob

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