Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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Our Fiat Seicento has electric Power steering, as with the Honda above it feels a bit odd, not as good as hydraulic. no real self centering when almost centered. (bit like the TR !)
Having said that I am now used to it.
Bob.
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As long as the battery is the same voltage i.e. 12V not 6, then it should be fine.
Bob.
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I had to clean up the thread on the brass union which screws into the pump - a P.O. had over tightened it & it "swelled to be a slightly larger dia.
The original pump it was in accommodated this, but when I fitted a D Davis recon pump I could not get the union to go in. The thread was a UNF one as I recall, I ran a die over it, & all was well.
Bob.
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Go to the "Members Area Login" tab at the top right of screen, login, & then go to BUY / SEL / TRADE,
you will then see an "EDIT YOUR ADVERTS" tab centre screen.
Bob.
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If it's the same as TR 3, & I think it is, the cylinder should slide length wise a certain ammount, this is to ensure that both brake shoes get pressed evenly onto the drum. That is why they are held in place with spring clips, rather than bolted.
Bob.
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I use the 86° one above all year round.
Gauge sits at just under 185° (F) unless in traffic, then Revotec fan kicks in at around 190° (no mechanical fan)
Warm up is fast - usually within ½ mile.
My rad was re-cored using more cores than standard, & no starting handle hole.
Bob.
P.S.
My standard heater was thoroughly flushed prior to fitting, & it works just fine.
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Bellows thermostat with shield to blank off the bypass hose was original fitment, you can still get them.
Bob.
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You can buy the spacers to go under the dzus catches - TR shop have them.
You are supposed to add as many as is required to get the height you need.
Also don't forget the rubber pads to be fitted at the front corners (replacing what would be the frontmost ¼" screw holding wing to inner wing.
These should be adjusted in height to let the bonnet sit correctly.
Bob.
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Yes but
It still means pulling the engine out !
The Wasp geared motor will remain as long as it lasts
It spins the engine over just fine.
Bob
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I agree, my "bomb" starter was working just fine before I replaced it with a TR shop geared motor.
This also is working just fine. The only reason I changed was to allow me to fit the Phoenix manifold. Only alternative was to change the flywheel, & get hold of a later (shorter) motor type I.e. TR 4 type.
FWIW I am told that the ones sold by the TR shop are of a better quality than some.
They are labeled "Wasp"
Bob
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No. It, s the same.
Bob
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LM grease & soft solder
Bob.
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Pete.
We seemed to have hijacked this topic!
But I used the Revingtons steering geometry kit which improves the Ackerman angle.
The Bastuk adjustable upper fulcrum from the TR shop
Note that these come with bolts which are correct for a TR4 but wrong for a TR2-3A.
I bought the Revingtons sprung steering box cover, but when I saw it, I decided to modify my one, & sell off the Revington one to a friend at half price.
Finaly I fitted late TR4 trunnions, & second hand upper wishbones for late TR4-TR6 from the TR shop.
This gives the 3deg castor angle.
The camber was the trickyest part to set up, I ended up making a camber guage out of a spirit level, a straight edge, 2 rubber straps, & a slidable spacer (& some trigonometry)
Bob
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I have fitted the Bastuc adjustable upper fulcrum purchased from the TR shop.
Note the kit is for a TR4 the bolts are the wrong length for TR2-3a.
It took awhile to set up & I decided on 0.6 dgs -ve as just being noticeable. I think 2 degs would be too much for road use, & would look wrong.
I also fitted the steering geometry kit, & the sprung top cover for steering box, & also fitted late TR4 trunnions , with TR4a-6 upper wishbones to give 3 degs castor.
The effect of all of these mods is a much improved steering.
Bob
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You need a vent on the tank somewhere or else it cannot draw air in to replace the petrol you use.
Are you sure the smell is coming from the vent, & not just from the bottom of the tank - which may be rusty, & seeping very slightly ?
Bob.
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Pete.
Yes all done, 3° castor, -.6°camber, steering geometry kit fitted, & a copy of the steering box top mod fitted.
Car much nicer to drive, virtually no bump steer, & it now wants to go round corners !
Bob.
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No. sounds fairly normal too me.
The oil fumes from the crankcase pass through the tube, & some will condense on the walls, & then drip down.
If you want a drip free car
then catch the oil in a small container, as required in racing circles.Bob.
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I would suggest that a good job is worth waiting for, even if it is a little frustrating.
Bob.
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Oops ! what I meant to say was :
Where in the circuit is the alternator connected? it must be on the load side of the ammeter, i.e. not the battery side.
Bob.
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Where in the circuit is the ammeter connected? it must be on the load side of the ammeter, i.e. not the battery side.
Bob.
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Re-connect the spring (if you have one), then I suggest to get someone to press the clutch pedal down, while you watch the slave cylinder, you should see the rod move by an inch or so at least.
Good luck
Bob.
Just to reiterate the above, get someone to press the pedal, & watch the slave cylinder. If the rod does not move, or not very much then it is a hydraulic problem, so worth bleeding the system again. If it does move an inch or so then the problem is the clutch it's self.
Bob.
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The standard 30A ammeter will be fine with an Alternator conversion - 'onest !
Bob.
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More likely to be 1/8" BSP.
Probably same as 1/8" NPT
Bob.
Tr4a gearbox
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
An unmodified saloon box will have a different input shaft, different overdrive inhibit switches (3rd, & top only) a reversing light switch, the speedo drive will be at a different speed ( 2.5:1 for TR box, 3.5:1 for saloon), & if overdrive fitted the overdrive will not be as strong internally as TR, & will have the wrong rear casing to match your mountings.
Other than that they are exactly the same !!
Bob.