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Posts posted by Lebro
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Good result Roger, I'm glad you did not go for new carbs, I was thinking that should not be necessary.
Will be nice to see you turn up at our meetings in a TR for a change
Bob.
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" I am a bit relucatant to drive the car much faster, am I being over cautious? "
Yes.
A non-overdrive TR6PI ought to be capable of cruising at the ton all day . . . . . .
Cheers
Alec
I think it's aTR4A
Bob.
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I believe this is quite common, mine does the same. I have tried an alternative cap (plastic) but that did the same. I think the answer is not to fill the reservoir too full, & keep wiping off any spillage.
Bob.
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Does anyone know of a Pay as you go Sim for a tracker that does not need monthly top-ups that expire each month?
I'm sure there used to be sims available that retained unused credit for future months.
Alan
O2 PAYG sims only require topping up when you run out, however, you must make a "chargable call" within each 6 month period or they will switch off the SIM.
You can get it switched back on again, but just make it send a text message every 4 months or so, & all will be well.
I have had my tracker installed for over 2 years now using an O2 PAYG sim, every so often I check to see if the tracker is still working (it always has ) & that satisfies O2 to keep it alive. Have not topped up at all, just put £10 in when I started.
Bob.
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I have had one of these in for 2 + years now, it has always worked when I check it, not monthly fees, just buy a pay as you go SIM (I use an O2 one)
ring the device up, It will send you back a text message with Lat & long, also a link to google maps to show graphicaly where the car is.
http://www.tr-registershop.co.uk/chipntrac-2009-p.asp
Bob.
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Any bike ( as in pedal type) shop will sell inner & outer cable by the metre, then you just have to make up the ends.
Bob.
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My HS6's also have the brass tube. these were purchased from Cox & Buckles back in mid 70's.
the tubes are blanked off with a plastic cap.
Bob.
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Well ?????
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+1 it can take up to 40 secs for oil to fill the filter, & all the other places it comes across before getting to the pressure gauge.
Is the rotor in the distributer turning as you crank ? if so then the pump is probably doing it's thing.
May be worth spinning the pump directly with a drill (running backwards). to do this you need to remove the distributer drive shaft.
There is another thread on this going around at present.
Bob.
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I suspect it is a little easier to release to release a row of Tenax fasteners on a TR which is not going anywhere, rather than a yacht which may be rocking around rather.
Bob.
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Dave.
Could be interested in the rocker cover if chrome is reasonable
Bob.
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Because part of it is hexagonal to take a spanner or socket, but also it has indentations to take a starting handle - that part is the "dog"
Bob.
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Go for a six sided (hex) ring spanner rather than 12 (bi-hex) as the shape of the dog nut has rounded corners.
Bob.
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I may have been tempted if I had not already purchased 2 sets of headlamps, think I'll stick with the Valeo ones.
I agree, the ebay ones probably don't dip.
Bob.
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I would say very nice !
Bob.
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What fun !!
Bob.
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For those of a technical nature, here is the current wiring diagram for my '3:
Note all my lamps are now LED's except headlamps.
Peter.
I like the Landie ones very much, but they are a tad expensive
Bob.
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Most trunnions seem to leak, fix is to soft solder the bottom plate as shown.
Bob.
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OK, result time.
Photos of the beams proved not so easy as there are not many deserted unlit roads near me, ended up using my garage door as a backdrop.
The centre of each beam was way too bright for my camera, and is totally over exposed, however looking at the light levels outside of the beam gives a clue.
Full picture -
Edited picture just showing the edges of the beam -
Looking at the edges of the garage door it can just be seen that the left hand lamp is slightly brighter.
This confirms what I could see by looking directly at the lamps - the left one (relay mod) is just a bit whiter than the non modified right one.
I have also done some voltage checks, I checked both sides - standard wiring, & via relay wiring. Both side were very similar. Tests were done on dipped beam only for convenience.
No relays Bat volts 12.08V Left lamp 10.90V Right lamp 10.90V volts drop solenoid to both lamps 1.18V
With relays Bat volts 12.08V Left lamp 11.73V Right lamp 11.77V volts drop solenoid to L lamp 0.35V R lamp 0.31V
This shows an improvement in voltage at the lamps of 0.83V (left) & 0.87V (right)
I then measured the volts drop across the 35A fuse (which in my case is the old horn fuse). 0.10V
Finally the volts drop across the wiring from solenoid to the fuse including the ammeter. 0.19V
Add these together and you get pretty close to the measured volts drop with the relays in use.
So, to summarise, Standard wiring volts dropped to lamps = 1.18V
Relay wiring through ammeter volts dropped to lamps = 0.31V / 0.35V
Relay wiring not through ammeter volts dropped to lamps = 0.02V / 0.06V
I have wired my relay feed through the ammeter, as not to do so would give false ammeter readings.
But my conclusion is that for the tiny gains in light output is it really worth fitting the relays ? Probably not.
Here are a couple of pics of the relay installation.
Bob.
P.S. Before anyone complains that one of my blue spade terminals is not fully on, that was so I could get a voltage reading !
It's fully on now.
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It is the trunnions which have the castor angle built in. The links are straight, but one has a right hand thread & the other a left hand thread.
These then have to match the threads in the handed trunnions. If your top wishbones are as in photo above then you must have the links, & trunnions on the correct side.
Bob.
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Definitely sounds like the clutch then.
Bob.
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All 4 relays fitted, But have only wired in the nearside 2 for now.
If the rain stops, I will take it out tonight & try to get some photos to compare with & without relay assistance.
Bob.
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Roger/Lebro, The button on my solenoid seems to be locked solid is there another way?of a decent pint I also dreamed of all the glorious spring runs I would be taking
Chris
hold a short length of wire (can be quite thin) between the top big terminal on the solenoid, & the small terminal (remove the white / red wire first)
This should engauge the solenoid. If that fails then, crude, but just place a spanner (or other thickish metal part across the two big terms, there will be sparks, but the starter should turn over.
Bob.
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Copy that Roger, you had a bunch of guys here turning blue
Bob.
Renovating cracked leather seats
in General TR Technical
Posted
+1 I have had some problems with neatsfoot oil as well, from memory it softened the leather to the point that it started to fall apart.
Possibly corrosive ?
Bob.