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Lebro

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Posts posted by Lebro

  1. I agree, my "bomb" starter was working just fine before I replaced it with a TR shop geared motor.

    This also is working just fine. The only reason I changed was to allow me to fit the Phoenix manifold. Only alternative was to change the flywheel, & get hold of a later (shorter) motor type I.e. TR 4 type.

    FWIW I am told that the ones sold by the TR shop are of a better quality than some.

    They are labeled "Wasp"

     

    Bob

  2. Pete.

    We seemed to have hijacked this topic!

    But I used the Revingtons steering geometry kit which improves the Ackerman angle.

    The Bastuk adjustable upper fulcrum from the TR shop

    Note that these come with bolts which are correct for a TR4 but wrong for a TR2-3A.

    I bought the Revingtons sprung steering box cover, but when I saw it, I decided to modify my one, & sell off the Revington one to a friend at half price.

    Finaly I fitted late TR4 trunnions, & second hand upper wishbones for late TR4-TR6 from the TR shop.

    This gives the 3deg castor angle.

    The camber was the trickyest part to set up, I ended up making a camber guage out of a spirit level, a straight edge, 2 rubber straps, & a slidable spacer (& some trigonometry)

     

    Bob

  3. I have fitted the Bastuc adjustable upper fulcrum purchased from the TR shop.

    Note the kit is for a TR4 the bolts are the wrong length for TR2-3a.

    It took awhile to set up & I decided on 0.6 dgs -ve as just being noticeable. I think 2 degs would be too much for road use, & would look wrong.

    I also fitted the steering geometry kit, & the sprung top cover for steering box, & also fitted late TR4 trunnions , with TR4a-6 upper wishbones to give 3 degs castor.

    The effect of all of these mods is a much improved steering.

     

    Bob

  4.  

    Re-connect the spring (if you have one), then I suggest to get someone to press the clutch pedal down, while you watch the slave cylinder, you should see the rod move by an inch or so at least.

     

    Good luck

    Bob.

    Just to reiterate the above, get someone to press the pedal, & watch the slave cylinder. If the rod does not move, or not very much then it is a hydraulic problem, so worth bleeding the system again. If it does move an inch or so then the problem is the clutch it's self.

     

    Bob.

  5. Andrew.

    I fitted an Accuspark module in 2013, I have a spare in the glove box, but it has never given any trouble. Fit & forget.

    This replaced points & capacitor, but still uses the distributer for timing advance.

    Should be around £50 on ebay

    I think they do a + earth version, but why not switch over to -ve earth - it's easy to do.

     

    Bob.

  6. The nut, as you say is to lock the rod in position after adjusting the rod length to get the correct free play on the clutch lever.

    I don't know if you have a return spring fitted, but if so, unhook it from one end, the feel how much free movement you have on the rod coming from the slave cylinder. there should be a small amount - say 1/8". if not lengthen or shorten the rod by screwing in, or out of the fork, then when correct tighten the nut up against the fork.

    The pin connecting the fork to the clutch lever would normally go in the middle hole.

     

    Re-connect the spring (if you have one), then I suggest to get someone to press the clutch pedal down, while you watch the slave cylinder, you should see the rod move by an inch or so at least.

     

    Good luck

    Bob.

  7. the jet on the rear carb is only about .015" down from the bridge whereas the front one is .032" down.

     

    So my question is - Is this variation in the jet heights normal or does this indicate that something else is amiss with the carbs?

     

    Rgds Ian

     

    +1 for checking float heights, also you could have a slight air leak on front carb.

     

    With HS6's the front float chamber is in front of the carb, The rear one is behind.

    The engine does not sit horizontally, it is higher at the front than the back, therefor, with the float heights set as per book, i.e. both set the same the level of fuel in the jet of the front carb will be higher than the level in the back carb.

    This does not explain your observation as it is the wrong way round, but may be of interest.

    I have set my float heights up to give the same level of fuel in each carb.

     

    Bob.

  8. To check if the springs are the same strength find a rod / pole of any material which the springs fit over, then compress the two springs towards each other. if they are the same then they will "shrink" in length at the same rate.

     

    Regarding the C & B HS6's mine came with fixed needles.

    But last year I was making up a pair of HS4 carbs for a friends TR3A (fitted with a TR2 engine) I purchased a "pair" of them at the autojumble at last years Malvern IWE. When I examined them more closely I realised that they were not a pair, just 1 LH carb, & 1 RH carb from different origins.

    One had a fixed needle, & the other had a sprung one. To sort this out I made up an insert to go in the sprung one, a press fit, to accept the fixed needle.

     

    Bob.

  9. Well I don't think so, but others may disagree.

    The usual reason for the pistons not going down properly is either the jet not being correctly centered, or simply build up of grime in the piston / housing area.

     

    Bob.

  10. I have had a Gunsuns easybleed for years, some times (not very often) it works well, but keeping all the lid seals (your master resovoir, & the lid on the easybleed bottle) actually sealed is the problem, when it goes wrong there is usually a lot of brake fluid where you don't want it.

     

    These days I use a simple rubber tube with a split near the end & the end plugged, this forms a one way valve, dip this into a jam jar which already has some fluid in it, open the nipple & slowly pump. as long as the split is under the surface of the fluid it cannot let any air back in.

    After a few pumps, get out, tighten nipple & move on. NOT FORGETTING TO KEEP RESOVOIR TOPPED UP !!!

     

    Works for me

    Bob.

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