Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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Thanks - just bought a set
Bob.
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The lever can have "no feel" to it if the engine has stopped in the position where the camshaft is pessing on the pump's internal lever.
Try turning the engine over half a turn, & try the pump again.
Failing that, assuming you have enough fuel in the tank
, it does sound like the pump valves are stuck, or the float chamber float valves are stuck shut.(This last scenario has happened to me on the front carb on two occasions now, a sharp tap on the chamber side released it.
Bob.
P.S. Dave Davis - 07909737531
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If it ran before you checked (& adjusted ?) the valve clearances maybe you did something to stop it firing - check you set the clearances correctly (low compression on No. 4 could be -ve clearance ?
Bob.
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Roger.
I have used the repro ones, I agree the contacts are rather close to the enclosure, However, mine have not given any trouble. (so far)
Bob.
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Thanks Andreas, I understand how it works now.
I have a lathe, so maybe I will make one one day.
Can you show a photo of yours from another angle to see all the disks ?
Bob.
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This is what I have been using, on 1 A4 sheet, laminated.
No "Final pictures 'cos the car would be there in front of the reader !
Bob.
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If only I spoke German !
I assume (referring to your photo above) that youhave 4 large disks, 2 each side of the thing to be balanced ?
Bob.
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Unless, of course, some one has been in there before you !!
Bob.
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The link above was not very helpful !
Bob.
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I would have thought so, but others may know better.
Bob.
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Looks just about spot on to me
Bob.
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I thought Limslip was something New Zealanders took when they had a cold ?
Bob.
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The bonnet cable release is wrong for a TR2, they had two catches - one each side.
Also I think the early bonnet should have four vent slots at the rear
Bob.
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eh ?
Oh yes GL5 - I've been using it for years in TR axle, & Hillman (1935) axle & Gbox.
Bob.
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Just trying to visualise a ream of A4 paper climbing a ladder
Bob.
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Yep done that one a few times !
Bob.
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Manufacturerz must NOT by law, provide a speedo that under reads.
Else it would be too easy to dodge a speeding fine.
So they ALWAYS provide one that over reads ,and not by more than 10%, bylaw.
So long after that it is a surprise that there is no more slop in the mileomter mechanism
John
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Millers also do "steering box oil" it's just a very thick oil, works for me
Bob.
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Ian. A quick test is drive in non O/D top, the rev counter, & speedo needles should be pretty much at the same place on the dials.
Bob.
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The two functions (speedo, & odometer) are separate. The odometer works by gearing, based on gearbox speedo output drive ratio (2.5:1 for a TR), diff ratio, & tyre diameter.
The speedo is much less precise, & relies on magnetic pickup. Most read high unless you are very lucky, the main thing is that they should be steady.
Bob.
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But mine is orientated with the solenoid on top.
Roger
I think you will find:
That is the motor on top Roger, it is geared to the final drive which is on the end of the solenoid.
Bob.
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??????? Bolt on, or shrink on, the motor goes in the same place. Only difference is the number of teeth on the gears - motor for shrink on has 9, bolt on has 10.
Bob.
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Yes, 2 years protection, blue in colour.
Bob.
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+1.
I wanted mine blue, but did not particularly like the "standard" colours of the time, so went for Austin "Teal Blue"
Very happy with it, & it get lots of good comments.
Bob.
TR4 Rebuild
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted · Edited by Lebro
Those are not Tenex, they are "lift the dot"
Have you tried Woolies ?
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-58-lift-the-dot.aspx
Bob.