Lebro
-
Content Count
12,003 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Lebro
-
-
Bob, if you set number one on TDC on the compression stroke you would need number 4 to be rocking? i think.
Graham
Clarified my post - thanks Graham
-
This is probably completely wrong, but -
if the cam is symmetrical, ie, Inlet starts opening as exhaust is closing, can you not:
1. set crank at TDC - compression stroke on No. 4
2. adjust No.1 tappet clearance's to be equal. (on back of cam)
3. turn cam sprocket till No. 1 rockers are "rocking" ie equal dip on both
4. fit chain.
Standing by to get shot down in flames
Bob.
-
Any event which I take part in is always very wet.
Vicky
Too much information
-
What fun you have
Bob.
-
Have not done it, but I can't see there being a problem.
Bob.
-
OK, so how does the HP2009 rate ?
Bob. (just bought 4 of them !)
-
Co2 for me
Bob.
-
Ahhhhhh I see.
Bob.
-
Done
Bob.
-
The HP 2009 has both drainback & bypass valves. Mine just arrived, & I read it on the box.
Bob.
-
A little less talk, & a little more action would have been nice.
Bob.
-
I sand blasted mine first, then primed it befor sticking on the vinyl.
Bob.
-
Wow, very nice too.
Bob
-
+1 The needle tries to follow the input shaft. Use the drill in reverse.
Bob.
-
There are two common threads used on spin on oil filters. Metric M20 X 1.5mm, & imperial 3/4" X 16TPI
They are close, but not the same. Our spin on adaptors use the imperial thread. I think your three examples above are imperial.
I would have thought longer ones will last longer, but only a gut feeling.
Bob.
-
+1
AH is the capacity i.e. how long it will supply a current for. 65 AH = 6.5A for 10 hours etc.
Cold cranking figure is a measure of the internal resistance of the battery, which if very low will allow lots of current, if higher will limit the current.
A CC figure of around 650A, & an AH of around 75 would be fairly normal for a TR. Go less on the AH, and you may run out of energy if it is not a good starter.
Bob.
-
BTW Mine is a left hooker so the steering column gets in the way of the back nut, but a bit of Jiggerling it ( Arkwrights words) did it.
Dave
Don't you mean " Jer Jer Jer Jer Jiggering it"
Bob.
-
Yes, but --- the original bracket is a PITA to fit, & difficult to get the exhaust pipe clear of the cruciform. The later (TR4) type holds the pipe rigidly to the gearbox, so not stressing any joints between the head, & that point, & it is a much better way of locating the pipe, & easier to fit.
Whether Ben can use this on his system is unknown, but my guess is that it is the way to go.
Bob.
-
I had this happen to my '3 back in the 70's. I was parking up in a pub car park, went to reverse into a space, & it would not go.
knew nothing about the unidirectional clutch at the time, but luckily I did not force the issue, just tried moving forward again, & parked somewhere else.
After lunch went out to the car, and all was well. It never happened again.
Bob.
-
The normal points of attachment are right at the back under the rear valence, and at the gearbox mount as shown in this photo using standard cast manifold. I now have a Phoenix manifold, but the gearbox mounting is the same.
Bob.
-
Don't tempt him
Bob.
-
No harm done turning backwards.
Regarding fitting the pump, as long as the lever ends up above the cam lobe then it will be fine.
In the past I have achieved this by lifting the manual priming lever fully. This will also lift the internal lever (the one which is driven from the cam) sufficiently that it cannot possibly slide under the camshaft. while holding the lever up, slide the pump onto it's studs.
Bob.
-
1991 cc TR3 FRE engine fitted circa 1968, gave me 41 MPG driving from Leatherhead to Lincoln, & back.
Speeds generally 65 - 70.
Around town I get more like 30 MPG. But it does show what's possible.
Bob.
-
TR3B Performance Upgrade
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I would fix the hot running before doing anything else, fitting new liner & pistons will make it run even hotter.
Bob.