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Everything posted by Lebro

  1. 1st time I have heard that the hard seats are only fitted for the exhaust valves, is this normal ? Bob.
  2. I presume it was insured, taxed, registered ? was that a UK number plate ? Great news though - These engines do seem to put up with long storage, Mine (TR3) also had not been started for 30 Years, & after a lot of initial smoke has proved to be a "good un" Bob.
  3. I think it would be better if we just place posts on one only of the Forum areas. I replied to this topic in the TR4 area, as did others, only to find my post missing from this one ! Just a thought. Best wishes Bob.
  4. In case you are uncertain about re-wiring the car, below is some info I posted in February about the same topic. Posted 09 February 2014 - 01:21 PM Car needs to be -VE earth, if it isn't, simply swap the battery contacts, reverse the ammeter contacts, & reverse the coil connections. Assuming you don't have a car radio fitted, or LED lights etc. in which case they will need to be modified. The wiring is not that complicated. Refering to the regulator internal connections: Disconnect all internal coils , & contacts. Join A to A1, & to F. Isolate D E can be left - but won't do a
  5. I'm sure it won't matter which direction the fuel comes from. Only problem may be the angles at which the pipes emerge from the float chamber tops. Bob.
  6. It does not matter which way the switch works, the main thing to check is that the gearbox isolation switches are preventing O/D from being switched in unless in 2nd, 3rd, or top gear, & definatley NOT reverse. Bob.
  7. Check float chamber levels, Also check that one of the floats does not have petrol inside. Bob.
  8. Ah, but if it fails in forward, the one way clutch carries the drive through. Bob.
  9. After you have undone, cleaned, removed any paint etc from the contact areas, smear some petroleum jelly over the now bare metal areas, & reassemble tightly. Bob.
  10. I share the concern about fly off handbrakes. Mine did so by it's self once back in the 70's, but I got away with it thanks to the very quick reactions of myself, & my friend (also a TR owner) who, on hearing the "CLONK" recognised the sound, & ran towards the car, which was heading backwards towards a drop of around 20 ft. We got to it in time, and managed to stop it. Whew ! When re-building last year I made sure all the ratchet parts were in good condition, & it seems sound, but I am still uneasy about leaving it on a slope incline. I have never been in the habit of lea
  11. I have stainless all round on my 3 bought from the TR shop. They seem very well made, & strong. Would highly recommend
  12. I will repeat my post above : The Luminitions parts will require a current source to illuminate the LED, & an amplified input to detect the opto diode's output. This could only be acheaved with the use of some intermediate circuitry. Bob.
  13. How can that be - it's on the input side side of the pump ? I have kept some old (empty) pots of grease which I use if a newly purchased pot does not have the top "holed" plate. I use waterproof grease in the hubs of my boat trailer (as it gets submerged) that comes in plain tubs, so I just transfer it to an old tub, & mark it as "waterproof". The tub dia is not quite the same, otherwise I could just move the plate over. Bob.
  14. It seems everyone has their own way of filling a wanner grease gun. For what it's worth, here is my way: When gun is empty, unscrew the cylinder from the pump part. remove lid from pot of grease. place open end of cylinder on the plate with hole in it in the pot press the cylinder downwards, & at the same time pull the handle & chain upwards you are then sucking grease up into the cylinder. When fully up lock the chain into the top of cylinder (in a slot) remove cylinder from pot, & replace on the pump section. Release the chain, & lock the black handle back into th
  15. Re gear knob: Yes I agree, I have one exactly the same (not fitted to car though) it came with the gearbox I am using which was out of a Triumph 2000 Mk2 (O/D) The odd thing is, reverse is in the wrong place on the knob. Both mine, & the one in above photo show reverse to be right & away from you. Which it is not ! T 2000 & TR's are the same, reverse is right , & towards you. ??????? I used to have a Stag with a similar knob, but reverse was in the correct place. Bob.
  16. Re: bifurcated rivets I have in my hand an original Triumph one taken from my seats last year, & a brand new one probably from the TR shop. They are pretty much identical in measurements: Length 17mm Head dia 8mm shaft dia 3.9mm length of slot 11.8mm width of slot approx 1mm at base, & 1.9mm at tip Bob.
  17. I went through this process last year, I eventualy decided to fit the covers without using the plywood which I had found very hard to bend to the right shape without it snapping (yes I tried water, steam etc). I used good old evostick from a tub to stick the vinyl direct to the metal both inside, & outside. Getting the wrinkles out was the main problem. Regarding "beefing up" the seat pan, how about welding some large washers to the base over the existing holes. "mudguard" washers are ideal - available in large diameters but with small holes. I must admit I got the body shop who were
  18. Looks like that's been broken for some time Bob.
  19. The small tag is meant to have a spire nut clipped to it to take the screw type rim. It sounds like you have the wrong rims for your headlamp shells Bob.
  20. I would question if the "T" was not also done with a chisel, also the "S" seems to be a rather fancy font. All sugesting non original stampings Bob.
  21. Tinker ye not & stick to original type ! Sorry you had an interrupted journey back from the meeting, lucky you had a spare. I use the SU type with the rubber cone end - never had any trouble. Bob.
  22. Surely the head will come off now, with only half a stud holding it + sticktion of the head gasket. Once off you will see the stud. If "half of it left" means a short section protruding from the block, then you could try heat cycles on the stud, combined with a stud extractor (external type) or mole grips etc. If the threaded part is half remaining, then you will have to drill it out, following Roger's guide lines. Bob.
  23. PTFE tape on the thread is much cheaper, & prevents the two parts corroding themselves together. Bob.
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