Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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This sort can easily be fitted inside the TR3- 3A overdrive switch housing
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266435708679?var=566244560570
These photos are of a center biased two way switch, but the single way biased switch above will fit just the same.
Bob
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The trouble with asking for a used one is that the fasteners may not be in exactly the right place to suit your car.
New ones are supplied with the fasteners, but not fitted with them.
I found the Moss supplied one was too small to fit my TR, but one from Rimmers was ok.
Bob
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Definitely a later engine. The dates sound right my TR3 TS9551 was made late 1955, but 1st registered early 1956.
Bob
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I was enjoying the wall of death shot !
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Once you try it, there's no going back !
Bob
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The higher position of the LTD peg was done when the solid skirt sidescreens were introduced.
Bob
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If it's anything like mine, I had the same, probably through over greasing, once the grease breaks through, the seal is permanantly deformed, & the grease just keeps on commin'
I went through 2 or 3 "clean it up & hope for the best" cycles before biting the bullet & replacing the seals on both sides. I did not pull the halfshaft, & did not change the inner seals (between diff, & wheel bearing. All well now. (fingers crossed)
Bob
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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:
Take the washer out from under the nut or you do not know the taper has separated.
Fitting a short length of the correct diameter steel rod in the split pin hole or the force on the end of the shaft wilt deform it.
Above most important. I left the washer in place on the 1st side, & yes, I did not notice that the hub has separated, & carried on abusing it !
Bob
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Agreed !
Bob
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2 hours ago, John Morrison said:
That’s a colossal amount of grease to end up there.
If the car is a solid axle then not too onerous to pull the driveshaft and change both the oil seal and if needed bearing.just undo lock tabs and six bolts on the back keep all the shims in the same order
my money would be on over enthusiastic greasing of the nipple on the end of the axle
what’s the other side like?
John
Easy to pull the shaft out, but to change the seal which has failed (between bearing & backplate) the hub needs to separated from the half shaft as Perter said above. NOT EASY ! you do need the special splitter, & a very big hammer
Bob
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Looks like they haven't fitted (or used) the inside pegs, which should straighten out the wrinkles
Bob
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!2 external on mine, + 2 internal to keep it from "flappin"
FWIW my 1st cover was from Moss, & no way would it fit, just made too small. Got a refund, & purchased one from Rimmers - it fitted fine !
Bob
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3 hours ago, RobH said:
Yes- restricted by the RoHS Directive, which is why silver-solder has changed too as the good low-temperature stuff (Easiflo) had cadmium in it.
Luckily I have enough to see me out !
Bob
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And don't forget the finish normally applied to guns - using Selenium dioxide paste.
Bob
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click on to enlarge
I know the part you mean, as shown above. You probably need to just search for a similar switch to rob it from.
Bob
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Well done. (still take a look at my link above!)
Bob
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Back in2013 I stuck these self adhesive sound deadening pads to the bonnet. still on, & have not deteriorated to any extent
Bob
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I must be lucky, I can get a spanner on it (in the standard upper position) from the engine side.
But I do have a T2000 gearbox, which has pushed the engine forward a bit.
Click on to enlarge image
Bob
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I tear ot pages of interest, & recycle the rest
Bob
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Not just you
Bob
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Need to make sure the gear has the correct No. of teeth. 9 for the early flywheels (with a shrink on ring gear) or 10 for the later bolt on gear.
It's easier if you have the standard exhaust manifold, getting a spanner on the nut / bolt on the gearbox side can be challenging.
Have you checked the cable connections to the motor, & the earthing braid. may be worth doing a voltage check of:
1) the battery direct, when cranking (coil disconnected so it doesn't start)
2) on the starter motor direct (terminal & case)
if a large difference between the two, then the wiring is the problem not the motor.
Bob
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Yes, that's correct.
Bob
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Original top Original base Repro top Repro base
The screws are tapered, & when screwed right the way in they trap the wire between the tapered side of the screw, & the tapered base of the hole.
A quick test showed that the wires were held securely.
Bob
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I have a switch on the bench, I will take some photos tomorrow.
Bob
Wanted : TR3a Hood Stick Cover
in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
Posted
I actually do have one for my TR3 which I am not using any more (due to fitting a roll over bar, & full harness seat belts which makes fitting it complicated)
But would it fit ? don't know.
Bob