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Lebro

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Everything posted by Lebro

  1. I don't know a bout a J type, but an A type overdrive cannot slip, as there is a unidirectional clutch, which will transmit drive (1:1 ratio) even if all linings are worn out. Bob
  2. I have used hardboard in the past, it works well enough. Bob
  3. I have fitted some to my '3 & to the drivers side of my Jeep. ( one blade was cut into 2 for the TR) I like them. Bob
  4. Hi David. I presume the flasher unit was replaced FOC. I have had some involvement in these, as when I first tried one, I found the pilot lamp would continue to flash 2 or 3 times after the indicators were switched off. Having traced out the circuit I suggested some modifications, which are now the norm. I supply these along with my own rear bulbs for sidescreen cars, and have only had 1 faulty one, which turned out to be a "dry" solder joint on the circuit board. The are are still the best LED compatible ones I have come across. Bob
  5. After initial starting up the battery will be being charged at quitr a high current, to replace the energy you used to start it. After a while the current will drop. I'm thinking interference of the rev counter circuits by the AC component of the nominal 12V supply. This will reduce as the current drops. You could try a capacitor over the +ve supply to the rev counter say 100 to 500 uF at 25V rating. Bob
  6. Chatham Historic dockyard along with one or two others Bob
  7. Thanks all, had a nice day. Off the Chatham dockyard today with many other TR's as it's "Drive it day". Bob
  8. 12 K for an HT lead sounds about right. Bob
  9. And the same to you, hope you had a good day. Bob
  10. The 1" to the right is approx correct. 10 degs BTDC is a good starting point. If you line up the hole with the pointer that is 0 degs BTDC,& is way too retarded. Also the vacuum advance pipe should be disconnected when checking this. Bob
  11. Check the points, & the thin earth wire inside the distributor, & the capacitor. Is the firing order correct, Is the ignition timing right - how did you set it ? Is the valve timing right ? Bob
  12. It sounds wrong, but try a masonry drill, they have a tungston tip, & I know the ground angle looks all wrong, but they will work. Just last week I was helping a fellow TR owner change an anti toll bar link on his Mitsubishi Shogun one nut would not undo, so we ground off the end. Which left a trapped hard steel threaded part. I tried a selection of hss bits all of which just got blunt very quickly, then tried a masonry bit, which worked. They don't produce the normal swarf, more like a powder.
  13. OK, only going by the article I attached. Not that it makes much, if any difference anyway ! Bob.
  14. Looks like a TR3 head to me Triumph TR2-3B FAQ _ Triumph heads.html Bob
  15. Looking at the photo of your head, it would appear to be a TR3 one (no flat section front off side) Triumph TR2-3B FAQ _ Triumph heads.html Bob
  16. I don't think so ! The base looks well corroded, & it would have to be to break like that. I would look for another one. The scuttle could be suffering from excessive shake, which would put strain on the frame, but the base must be very weak to have gone like that. Bob
  17. Easy one - attach it to the unused terminal, Right side on your last photo. Bob
  18. Now not a lot of people know that! Bob
  19. I think you will find the plates are soft soldered, not silver soldered. Bob
  20. 1st check is to measure the voltage on the motor main terminal while cranking, you may just be loosing too many volts through bad connections. If ok (greater than 10v) then the starter may be faulty, & need a re-wind. Bob
  21. Thanks for that. I think the marine spec hose J1527 + ISO 7840-A1 which I am going to use has a better resistance to fire than automotive hose. Which is why it has a thicker wall (16mm for a 6mm bore) Bob
  22. I have been looking into fuel hose specs today, as I am going to replace all mine (TR3). As far as I have been able to find out the "R" number dictates the maximum pressure the hoses can be used at (R6 max is 50 PSI, R9 is 150 ish) The J30 refers to its ability to withstand ethanol etc. So, for carburetter equiped cars J30 R6 is perfectly suitable. I will actually be using a marine spec hose (cos I have some) J1527 + ISO 7840-A1 which is also rated at 50 PSI, & up to 15% ethanol. Bob
  23. Deleted, (didn't read above properly !! Bob
  24. Lebro

    Head stud

    Depends where it has sheared off, he may be lucky & with the head off there may be some of it still above the block surface, or at least level with or slightly below the block surface. Bob
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