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Lebro

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Everything posted by Lebro

  1. If the steering has only got heavier since fitting the new box, then the rest of the steering system is probably ok, to check if the box is too tight jack the front of the car up, so the wheels are of the ground, then try the steering, if it is still heavy then check if it is only heavy in the straight ahaed position, or if fully left, or full right etc. there should not be any "tight spots". if there are then small adjustments to the rocker height setting screw may be needed. Are you sure it is heavier than before, with no other changes (tyres etc) are the tyre pressures ok. Bob
  2. That belongs to one of our (Thames Valley group) members. had a good look round it last year some time. Click on to enlarge
  3. Agree, current Gunk is useless. Hyperclean really does work. Bob
  4. The brake cleaner is a fairly aggressive solvent, Hyperclean (as I mentioned in another thread) is less so, still does the job well, and is water soluble, so you can hose the part clean afterwards. Bob
  5. I use "Hyperclean" it is a water soluble degreaser. I apply with either brush, or spray gun. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334919158316 The last lot I bought was in a 40 litre drum, (it was on offer) should last me out. Bob
  6. You not only need to get your chosen liquid (brake cleaner, paint etc.) into the can, but also the propellant, which is often propane. You used to be able to get special re-usable ones where you used compressed air to presurise, I had one once but never found it to be very good. Bob
  7. You can get adaptors which offer two "cigar" outlets from one. e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116116473023 Bob
  8. Not quite mine is a bare socket, chassis mounting only no waterproofing. Bob
  9. Yes, that's right. well worth it, I have "flown" it several times now, low pass over Portsmouth, whiz over the isl of Wight with a few aerobatics, then inland, & landing back at Tangmere (sucesfully !) great fun. Bob
  10. If you want a blow by blow account of rebuilding a 4 pot engine take a look here: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/74776-tr3-engine-box-re-build/ I did have a fair amount of TRouble getting the liner heights right ! Bob
  11. Did you try the Lightening simulator while you were theer ? Bob
  12. I mounted a "cigar" socket under the dash on a simple bracket bolted to the lower dash support rail. Bob
  13. Yes, that is normal, you want the suspension to respond to a bump by moving up quickly, but to avoid oscillation the damper only allows the suspension to drop more slowly. Bob
  14. The duct can make a big difference my friend has a 3A, and following an engine rebuild it would always boil after a fairly fast run. we fitted the duct, & no more problems. Bob
  15. Hi Malcolm. 1st thought is do you have the "cardboard" ducting to direct air from the grill into the rad. without that overheating is common. Also, when was the radiator last flushed through. they do get clogged up & so have reduced cooling effect. Bob
  16. I fitted like in the TR4 position - next to the radiator on left hand side. Bob
  17. I very much doubt it, they were fitting 4 synchro boxes to 3B'3. Bob
  18. Well I have the push on type (TEX) with a clip to hold them on, & they have never come off (yet) Bob
  19. And Dad uses to kill us every morning
  20. Check your connections. in case you did not know (sorry if you did) the wiper motor has 12V from the ignition switch (via a fuse) on it permanantly, & the wiper switch supplies the earth connection. If a previous owner has wired the switch to provide 12V then that could be the reason you get lots of current, as the motor self park mechanism may be shorting it out. Bob
  21. Green with a white stripe is rh indicator. Green with red stripe is lh indicator, red is sidelights. Bob
  22. I am ---------- in my mind
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