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Alfie14

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Posts posted by Alfie14

  1. Haven't used my 67 TR4a much this year but on an annual trip to Goodwood revival 2 problems crop up.

    1. The car started to overheated, got there and back OK, on lifting the bonnet, water spray every where. Top up water and run for 30 minuets, no signs of leaks, electric fan cuts in and out, no water flow from block tap initial but full flow after a few minuets, engine tick over OK.

    2. Nearly there the overdrive started cutting out and in and them pack up. With the car in 3rd gear and operating the O/D switch l can't hear the solenoid clicking, hope its the relay.

    Hope the more knowledgeable TR's can help.

    Andy.

     

     

  2. On checking the ignition to try solve bunny hopping in 1st gear l removed contact points without making a note of which order the yellow wire from the condenser and the black wire from the coil go, either side of the spring or nylon spacer? After you stop laughing can anyone help.

    Regards Andy

  3. Thanks to all for the input, after a delay in playing with the 7 the brake bleeding problem solved. After talking to Steve of S&S Preparations fix was easy, in a previous rebuild the front calipers had been fitted wrong way round ( right left, left right) so thew bleed nipples were on the bottom, change over, bleed nipples top and the aid of a pressurised bleed system the problem solved.

    Cheers.   

     

  4. Continuing saga of my TR7 brakes. l decided to rebuild the brake master cylinder, l remove the main pistons, clean the bore and re-sealed, the only problem l have, l can't remove the warning light valve to replace the O rings. As far as l can work out this only works the warning light so would it affect the brake operation if not re-seal.

    Regards

    Andy

  5. I am trying to bleed the brakes on a 1980 TR7 following the workshop manual, starting with the front N/S, Front O/S, rear N/S, fluid is flowing through the pipes. After bleeding a l get some pedal pressure but with the engine running no pedal pressure. My thinking is the master cylinder seals are not holding up under pressure but would welcome any advice before looking at replacing the master cylinder seals.

    Andy 

  6. Having check through previous suggestions l am coming to the conclusion that the master cylinder is the problem. If l bleed starting with the N/S front, fluid passes  with no air bubbles  and l get some brake pedal pressure, with engine running the pedal just goes straight to the floor, no pedal pressure, just want to get the advice of 7 community before removing the master cylinder.

    Regards

    Andy 

     

     

  7. Thanks for all the input. I tried bleeding with engine running, made no difference, pressure with the engine off, no pressure with the engine running, could the be a problem with the master cylinder?

     Any other suggestion welcome.

    Andy

  8. I am having problems bleeding the brakes, l have followed the recommended procedure, starting with the front N/S followed by front O/S and  rear N/S. l get pedal pressure without the engine running but with the engine On no pressure.

    Help!

    Andy  

  9. Having following all the advice without any success l decided checking the wiring from the indicator/ flasher switch, the first finding was the loom was covered in blue insulating tape, with the switch removed and tape removed l found a if'y repair on the earth wire, l strip the switch cleaned all the contacts, replace the wire refitted, switch On main light switch, lights pop up, dip and main beam worked. called it a day.

    This morning tried the lights without changing any thing, no pop up but lights still illuminating. i'm l right in thinking the switch is causing the problem.

    Regards   

  10. Hi Howard

    I have  the same Pektron as your picture, Connecting 12v to the blue/purple wire the lights pop up and down continuously.

    I swap 2 of relays over which resulted in the ignition being permanently on which would suggest l have a faulty relay. Although l can hear the relays clicking when l apply 12v, unfortunately my meter is on the blink so l can't check the output. 

    Thanks again for all your help.

    Regards

  11. Hi Howard

    The flasher stalk as no affect on the lights with the master switch On or Off. If l disconnect the power at the battery and wind the headlights to the up position reconnect the power both lamps immediately go down. Fortunately or unfortunately the fuse box has been change to a modern blade type, at least it makes getting to all the relays easier.

    I have ordered a new relay.  All the relays on mine are of the same type. The Pekton unit is different to the Robsport picture, it has a plug and socket fitting. l let you know how l get on once the new replay arrives.   

    Regards

  12. Hi Howard, thank you for your advice, l have check earthing points and so far can't find a problem but will keep working way through all connections. As l mentioned l can raise the lamp pods manually with the battery disconnected and they retract when the battery is connected, but if l try and raise them with  battery connected there resistance and the up knob will not move.

    Thanks to Stuart for the warning.  

  13.  In trying to solve the head lamps not popping up with the main light switch On l have found the following:

    1.If l manually raise them With battery disconnected, when battery is connected they go down

    2. If l put power to the side flasher connectors under the bonnet, the lamps pop up and down

    The head lamps light up on dip and main beam when down, all the relays seem to be OK. 

    HELP

     

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