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peter.goreham

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About peter.goreham

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  1. Hi Ian, In the early 90s I was restoring my TR5. As part of the engine rebuild I was having the engine block rebored at a local machine shop. The owner of the engineering shop, who’d previously owned a TR6, recommended recessing the block to take the later gasket. I took his advice, so like you I have an earlier block that takes the later gasket. Worth checking for a tag on the end of the gasket before you order spares regardless of the engine number! Peter
  2. Soaked mine for two days in paraffin. No change. Boil them. You won't regret it. If the worst comes to the worst you can still send them to k raven smith. Cheers Peter
  3. Hi Colin, Boil in saucepan of water for 15minutes. Lubricate with light oil and try to get some movement with gentle hand pressure. If no joy, repeat. Freed off a set a couple of weeks ago using this method. Can't take the credit for this, comes off Utube Cheers Peter
  4. Hi, Thanks for your suggestions. Using the (refurbished) PI throttle bodies would I think be the preferred option, if there are no serious downsides, as they would give me significantly more space for ducting cold air. I've contacted Emerald to see what they can come up with. Conveniently, they are only about 20 miles from where I live. Cheers Peter
  5. Hi, I’m seriously thinking of converting my TR5 from Weber 40DCOEs to EFI. I know that some of you out there have changed to EFI and have been pleased with the results so I’m hoping to benefit from your experience. I know little about EFI, is there any ‘must-read’ information out there that would get me started. The only thing that I have thought is that I would like to use a spare set of CP throttle bodies that I have as I like their compactness (100mm shorter than the Weber/manifold). I hope these would allow an effective cold-air box system. This is something that has been a problem with the Webers with the restricted space available. No real thoughts about the rest of the system. Hoping for suggestions. As always, look forward to any input. Peter
  6. Hi Ross, I have a spare one from a 5, but probably the same. If Neil can't help, PM me. Peter
  7. Hi, Been following this thread and Stuart's recommendation for Tex or Trico blades. Can't find any 10" stainless steel Trico blades for my 5 in their catalogue. Tex do two 10" SS blades, one a centre hinged look alike of the old Trico blade and the other having two hinge points further toward the blade ends. The second type looks a more modern type of blade. Anyone got experience of either of these or indeed any other suggestions. Peter
  8. Hi, Like Dennis Hobbs, bought my 5 in October 1974 and it was rusting in rear nearside wing. It had (and still does have) unpainted wing beads. I can't say it was supplied with them unpainted but it does seem odd that a previous owner would go to all the trouble and cost of either stripping or changing the wing beads. To me it has always seemed strange that Triumph went to the additional cost of having the wing beads pressed from stainless (matching the other side trims) if the intention was to paint them. Later It occurred to me that as at least some of the publicity photographs show cars with unpainted beads that when the customer received their new car and found them painted that they persuaded the dealer to change them FOC. Peter
  9. Oh, dear! Starter motor bush? ATB Peter
  10. Hi, I've found that the rim that holds the trim onto the studs can distort which then loosens the grip on the studs. The trim can only fit in one position which means that the fitting studs grip at the same three points around that lip. To remedy this in the past I've marked the three points around the rim and then lightly tapped them towards the centre of the trim with a mallet or piece of wood. You can give them a few taps and then trial fit them and see how easy or not they are to remove. This has worked for me. Another symptom of them loosening is that the trim can move slightly round the wheel rim, easy to notice as the valve gets bent over. Unfortunately, the more times they come off and bounce down the road the more bent the outer rim becomes and the less securely they fit. Tie-wrap technology may be the route to go but it probably won't be very pretty. Regards Peter
  11. Hi, Great that they're still people out there thinking about this. Must say I go with the guys that like Simon's homemade creation, seems to pretty much fill the available space and looks professional too. The only issue I have with the open-front/open-top box design is, as Jean says, what a pain they are to fit. I haven't got to the cardboard fabrication phase yet, but I had it in mind to try a three piece form of construction, similar to K&N filters. An open box section being sandwiched between front and back plates. Hope that makes sense! Peter
  12. Hi Guys, Many thanks for the posts. If I really want the cold air box it looks as though it's going to have to be a 'home-made' system. I think it will have to be a flat back plate and a shaped front box as Trumpy3's offering (not sure mine will look so professional, but we live in hope!) Special thanks to Jean for the pic and comments for the Revington box. Must admit I always thought it would be a bitch to fit. I'm slightly surprised that heat was such a problem. I know that aluminium is much more conductive than steel but still surprised that it was such an issue. Jean, any chance of a pic of your system as it is now? Peter
  13. Hi Daz, I've got this if you're interested. An Aley roll over bar for a TR6 surplus to requirements. This was bought probably around 1980 and never fitted. It is a single hoop design with a detachable cross brace and comes with it's original mounting kit. The model is described as FIA D/D. The attachment points appear to be at the base and top of the wheel arches. When I stripped the paper wrapping off it revealed some patches of light surface rust so would benefit from a coat of paint. Could do photos if you're interested. Peter
  14. Hi, Interested in obtaining a cold air box to fit my Weber DCOE (TWM manifold) converted TR5. Has anyone either sourced or fabricated one? This would need to be for the TR5 or early 6 with the 'short recessed' wheelarch. Certainly, Revingtons advertise one for the TR5, anyone got any experience with these. I also know that Goodparts do one that they say doesn't fit that style wheelarch. Look forward to an avalanche of ideas. Happy New Year to you all Peter
  15. Hi Richard, Yes, they're right, don't attempt drilling the assembly with a hand held drill. The fork / shaft need to be assembled with a new taper bolt and then cross drilled as a unit. I would have this done at a local machine shop. Shouldn't cost too much and is far better than wrecking the shaft and fork. Yes, definitely go with fitting double shaft bushes or alternatively Revingtons do a double width bush. Best of luck. Peter
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