Phil Terry
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Posts posted by Phil Terry
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Halfords have the Industrial Cabinet and Chest Bundle on offer at the moment for
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To answer the topic question "Nothing!" it's 20 degrees and full sun we are out for a drive!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Rod,
I am interested. How do we do a private message on this forum?
Click on Rods name at the top left corner of his post and you will see a message tab open
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More details please, commission number, registration??
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Wall and floor painting and general tidy.
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The credits say the vehicles are provided by Great Escape Cars
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Hi KOB.
You’re starting to worry me now as I have planned a similar trip from Portsmouth to Santander on Brittany Ferries and then motor through Northern Spain/France staying at Bilbao, Biarritz, the Dordogne area, Angouleme for le Circuit des Remparts and then on to our house in the Mayenne region of the Pays de La Loire and then home to Poole.
I have had the entire PI refurbished and I am confident on working on the car but well worth looking into the breakdown cover of various providers.
Kevo
I think there are TR6 owners/forum members all the way along your planned route. Just make sure you have internet access to post if you need any assistance.
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Phil,
From your thumbnail you have a different style of tailpipe. I have twin tailpipes and twin silencers, and I believe all those other with issues have twin tailpipes as well. They are mounted symmetrically closer to the centre line of the car than yours, perhaps by only 2 to 3" each side. I am working on the belief that it is the proximity to the centre line of the car that is the issue. The exhaust gasses are venting / accumulating centrally behind the car and then flowing up over the boot and into the cockpit.
I expect you have a silencer fitted left to right across the width of your car, with a twin exhaust system there are two silencers mounted front to rear, these may deflect air from entering under the rear of the car and disrupt the turbulent airflows that are created by your transverse silencer, creating a more laminar flow.
I would post a picture of my setup but it never seems to work on here for me so here is a stock photo I found on google - not my car.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5242522998_7a2bb90e94.jpg
AlanYou are correct - here is an image I just took
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Don't seem to have the problem with my US car - could the luggage rack be helping???
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Can anyone explain, or point me in the direction of an explanation, of how the soft top correctly folds down, particularly the side windows. The sharp angle at the bottom rear of the clear plastic side window has come detached from the main cover for an inch in both directions on both sides so I must be doing something wrong. Any advice gratefully received.
Andy
I don't know if it works the same on others models but here is a link to a youtube video of the method for a TR6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IS2FhnWK6_o
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I would ask for a refund instead of sending back
and weld a spot on the hole if its the only defect.
The modern WIG machines for home use can do so if AC/DC function added,
just have to get rid of the oil in the material because it prevents from proper connection.
Do not like coating inside because any chemical does not like
heat/time/temperature differences/oil/moisture
and that is all inside the engine and so no question it will fail,
the only question is when!
Only good news is that one will see it at oil change when peeling off starts
and hopefully a proper colour has been choosen for that incident (red)
Lotus had similar problems on their early twin cams.
If I remember right they filled some compound under pressure
into the material and wiped the rest inside off to keep a bright aluminium surface.
If you do try to weld repair it then it could take several tries. The flaw will be contaminated with oil and even very careful cleaning will not get rid of it all. The first (and possibly second and third) attempts at welding will probably be porous due to contamination but grinding them out and re-welding will eventually lead to a sound weld.
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Thank you
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What is the number for the " puissance fiscal" for a US ( not PI) TR6?
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Hi - my name is Mike Bilney, you may have heard of my PI service reputation. [seeTR register]
- - is your engine PI or Carbs?
- - assume you checked PI system for pump running, and injectors working?
- - sugg you try using tuning kit adaptor - contains transparent spark plug pedestal so that you can check if there is a spark when under cylinder pressure. Bet you have only checked it at atm pressure.
- - is the timing and dizzy OK?
- - valve cam timing ?
- - if it starts and runs for short time sounds like fuel starvation so would recommend checking the PI system
Good luck!!
MGB.
PS - I have clients all over the World so you may want to look at the services ad section on the TR register - and spread the word!! thanks
Mike
Mine is a US version on twin Stromberg carbs.
Phil
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Even better after 4 pages get a mechanic to come in and start the car
It least it got you all away from discussing deceased politicians.
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I am with Pinky and Rodbr, back to basics and set everything as per the brown bible, being methodical and leaving no steps out, timing, mu timing, drive dog, etc and fresh fuel, battery charged
Will do - after long period of reflection and consumption of copious amounts of red wine
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Hi Phil,
Very simple reason for asking is that the rotor arm is extremely important to get the wrigglys to the plugs.
Humour me by taking the three rotor arms and checking the length from carbon contact point to the rotor tip. If I am right you might find that your have a 4 cylinder rotor arm and not a 6 hence the question about DD 4 or DD 6.For some reason I thought you had got it from The Dizzy doctor so forget the DD part of it.
Lucas and repro ones should have either a four 4 or six 6 stamped on the rotor leg at the end.
The problem is that you have changed so much that it is a process of illimination now.
The red rotor arm that is in it at the moment has a 6 stamped on the rotor leg
The original one which came with the vehicle 6 years ago has no marking that I can see nor the Lucas
The distance on all of them is around 1.150-inch from the center of the contact point to the tip.
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Many thanks to everybody who has helped to try to solve this problem. It is now on hold until October. I will charge up the battery, disconnect it, put some stabilizer in the fuel and cover it over for the summer then leave for France- hopefully meet up with "kiwifrog" and "cliveinfrance" while I am there.
I intend to try and find a local mechanic when I get back - more difficult than you might think in the land of Chevrolets and Fords - current mechanics plug into the diagnostic computer then replace the bit it tells them is faulty. I might have to get the local wrecker service to haul it some distance.
There is unfortunately no club or group within a 100-miles which is why I have used this board so extensively.
Thanks again for all thesuggestions - I will update you all in the Fall.
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At the risk of repeating myself I'll ask again even included some multiple choice answers.
I think you said that you changed the rotor arm.
What is the code or number on your rotor arm please? DD4 or DD6
What type of plug leads are fitted? Silicon or wire type.?
Have you changed them since your troubles began? Yes or no?
If you want help and suggestions give us stuff to work with.
Rod
When the trouble began I had an unknown rotor arm - changed it to a Lucas from Moss USA - then changed it again to a red one from AccuSpark in the UK
Plug leads are Cobalts from Moss USA -don't know if they are silicon or wire these have been on for three years and I have not changed them during the search for a solution.
Phil
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Even better after 4 pages get a mechanic to come in and start the car
High on my list of options!
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Is it still a problem? With experience, I would suggest the source of your problems is removing the Pertronix, a previously functioning component. If the last time it ran it had Pertronix, I would suggest fitting a new one, if nothing else has changed.
apart from that, why haven't been out in your 6 all winter? Good Luck.
I think that is an excellent suggestion.
It has been too wet - it brightened up beautifully at the end of January which is when I went to go out for run and the problem started.
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Hi
My first post! I have imported a 75 TR6 from the US as a project. It was missing the manifold, and the carbs were dismantled, so I bought a set of SU carbs and manifolds off a 2500S. However, now having put them on, I am having trouble sorting out how the throttle works. It seems to consist of some kind of rod assembly, that I don't have all the parts for.
So, I am a bit stuck as to what to do - any ideas anyone?
Andy
PM sent
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Might have been asked before and a long shot, but have you got drive to the distributor?
Yes - took the cap off and watched it go round
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Thanks for all the tips -
Reference the responses to granitemans uneven running question in another post - I suspect it is electrical and the next plan, even though the coil seems to test out OK, is to replace it.
Part of my thought process from the onset of the problem was that nothing had been changed mechanically since it last ran - it fired up for a few seconds back at the end of January and then cut-out leading me to speculate that there was an electrical issue and that is what I have been chasing ever since. Along the way I have drained and replaced the fuel just in case of deterioration - although that has never been an issue in previous years - there is now, I realize the timing issue having taken out the Ignitor and put points in but hopefully the new coil will indicate some direction.
I now know how they lost the Beagle!
in General TR Technical
Posted
It was actually a Mars orbiter lost by NASA in the late 1990s, but is was due to one subcontractor using Imperial units while NASA (unlike most of the US) uses Metric.