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TonyC

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About TonyC

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  • Location
    Northumbria Group
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR6 1972 EFI

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  1. TonyC

    Rockers.

    Andy, those spring washers are to hold the rocker against the inner face closest to the mounting hole of the front and back pedestal. Your pics look correct. Just completed a test drive after the refurb. Sounds infinitely quieter and running sweet again. Just a bit gutted that I didn’t pick up on this a bit sooner. Anyway could all have been a lot worse. Thanks again. TonyC
  2. TonyC

    Rockers.

    Andy, Thanks for your pics. I’ve seen the spring washer on the exploded diagrams. Mine had neither a spring washer nor a plain washer when I took it off, but I did fit a plain washer on reassembly. Can’t grasp the benefit of a spring washer in that application as springs on the shaft keep it all in tension. The rear pillar oil gallery plug has I believe two main functions, a) to prevent the shaft rotating in the pillars, and b) to align the oil gallery opposite the gallery plug with the oil feed from the cylinder head. I’m not familiar with Chris Wittors solution but as long as
  3. TonyC

    Rockers.

    Roger, the Brown book calls out the split pin keeping everything in place and the springs compressed on the shaft. Haynes manual shows ‘end caps’. The split pin is not quite Heath Robinson but perhaps a little under engineered. Anyway my shaft seems to be as intended in that respect. Alan, this variation in rocker oil galleries has to be under the banner ‘continuous improvement’ during production. My only dilemma now is to understand which came first and why. It may be sensible to assume the rocker with two oil galleries came as a mod to improve lubrication, or did the rocker with the sin
  4. TonyC

    Rockers.

    I’ve just fitted a new rocker shaft from Moss which included phosphor bronze bushed rockers. A nice piece of kit. However I thought it prudent to report the difference between old and new rockers and seek comment from those of you with experience on this subject. After a 50 mile or so trip the engine developed a severe tappet rattle and uneven running. Removed rocker cover and found the rocker shaft oil gallery sealing plug lying on top of the cylinder head. Being starved of lubricant the exhaust rocker on no 2 cylinder had worn oval and the shaft was quite badly scored at the rocker pos
  5. I used one one those adjustable tools for fitting/ removing angle grinder wheels. Worked a treat and cheap as chips. TonyC
  6. Hi John, Your pic shows the correct installation of the slave, ie the mounting plate bolts to the engine side of the bell housing, the slave mounts onto the plate inserted from the gearbox side so that the machined flat surface (rear) of the SC flange mates with the plate. The push rod locates into the centre hole of the lever. This is to get the SC piston as close to the operating lever as possible to ensure the 16mm (0.625")of travel that is required to release the clutch driven plate and hence avoid clutch drag. Your setup does show that the lever may have been re-welded onto th
  7. John, I got the Koyo bearing from:- George Lodge & Sons Ltd Tel: 01482 329553 Direct: 01482 388487 Registered Office: 80 English Street HULL HU3 2DT In February when I bought it they ordered two from their supplier in error. Might still have it. Contact : adam@georgelodge.co.uk TonyC
  8. John, I recently changed my clutch assembly. The old B & B was in very good condition after 30k miles but I wanted a lighter pedal action so changed to the Laycock version. (See my earlier thread). However a Koyo bearing was used with the B&B set up and I replaced it as a matter of course with a new Koyo with the Laycock assembly, despite the fact that the Koyo bearing I took out showed no wear at all. Similarly the B&B clutch fingers showed very little wear / witness on the clutch fingers. (See pic). After some research I am convinced that the low wear evident is due to the a
  9. Thank you all. Valuable info as always. JohnL - well spotted thanks. Brain fade on my part. It's fixed now. Harlequin - Relining was an option as there are surprisingly a lot of places that will do it. I will do this and keep the set for next time. I've got a set of the Blue Print pads which look OK. Fingers crossed - from Ebay no less, but reputable perhaps from CARPARTSINMOTION. The other sources I have added to my 'database', including Steve's cross reference chart - invaluable. Not a bad result after the local auto store, having tried to get the BluePrint pads told
  10. Hi Peter, Sadly no. These are the pads which have absolutely the correct shape but at 119mm long are too big. Thanks a lot for your input. TonyC
  11. I have 4 pot calipers fitted to my 6, added as part of a rebuild by PO. I am in process of fitting new discs and of course pads and hit a very frustrating problem. My own notes from a previous brake clean and new pad fitment shows that the caliper pad set-up is from a 79 - 83 Toyota Hilux 2.2 Petrol 4 wheel drive pick-up. I used this info to buy pads previously. However looking at brake manufacturers catalogues on-line that make and type of vehicle is no longer listed so I have begun the trawl through on-line data to try and identify the pads that I need. I am not having much success. I
  12. ....and I thought we Geordies were the poor relations - £1.84. Maybe that's why. TonyC
  13. All complete and fully installed. Definitely a lighter clutch action. I moved to a 7.8" diameter slave cylinder to a) get a longer reach with the push rod and b) because I had it and it was new. The change of slave gave a very slight increase in operating force as you might expect but still hugely more comfortable than the previous set-up. I'll take this as a success. Now just need to get it all run-in a little, re-adjust the free play and move on to the diff next! Many thanks. Appreciate all comments and input which as usual is extremely helpful and valuable. TonyC
  14. Martin, The B&B clutch I removed (30k miles) was used in conjunction with a Koyo thrust release bearing and whilst there was evidence of some of the lubricant being flung out of the cage of the bearing onto the inner surface of the bellhousing, there was no significant grooving of the clutch cover plate fingers. I’ve decided to use a new Koyo bearing with the Laycock set-up, but also worth mentioning that I have the Revington adjustable slave push rod and spring which is designed to pull the bearing away from the clutch fingers so there is no contact unless the clutch pedal is operate
  15. Hi all, I now have the NOS Laycock clutch pressure plate and relined friction plate ready to be fitted to the flywheel. I thought I would check a few dimensions and share my observations:- Friction Plate:- The B & B plate I took out after 30000 miles, had 40 thou of friction material above the rivet heads. The Laycock plate I have just had relined has 50 thou. Draw your own conclusions. More interestingly when I checked the thickness of the material that each cover plate is made from, at the fixing holes, the Laycock assembly is 0.240 inches and the Borg and Beck, 0.126 inc
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