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TonyC

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About TonyC

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tyneside
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR6 1973 EFI

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218 profile views
  1. You get about Roger. No doubt you know that there is a bigger rail network on the Yorkshire Moors - Pickering to Grosmont. Well worth a visit if you haven't been already. You can also take in a visit to Mathewsons Classic Car museum and auction house at Thornton Le Dale, a couple of miles from Pickering. This is the place featured in Bangers and Cash on Yesterday channel. Super, and Derek would love a chat with you no doubt. This is the Flying Scotsman on the North York Moors Railway just approaching Goathland. Tony
  2. Tan Hill pub full of farmers. Can't believe it Roger....... Bet the carpark was full of John Deers, and probably the odd Fergy! Have not as yet enjoyed the rail link between Remire and Leeming Bar. Something on the 'to-do' list. Hopefully that line will be extended and you will be able to take a train deep into the Dales. We ran out of time to visit Dent Tim. Definitely next time with the group, but I've been there a few times. Definitely quirky, long may it last. Is that a pint of Black Sheep? Scottish Highland cattle in Yorkshire - it really has everything Marcel. I am guessing that may have been in Coverdale, en-route to or from Kettlewell. 20 TR's - would have been a wonderful sight. Our groups should have met up and driven some of those roads together. We're only 30 minutes from Scotch Corner. In fact judging by your rally plate I bet you came via our patch with DFDS from Amsterdam. Next time ! Tony
  3. Northumbria Group's 4 day tour of the Yorkshire Dales covered in excess of 350 miles, visiting many of the famous landmarks and places of interest. The route included narrow roads, hairpins and gradients with the odd ford thrown in, but nothing too demanding. Day 1:- 60 miles. From the meet-up point at Raby Castle the first days incursion into the dales was via Gilling West, Richmond, Leyburn, with lunch stop at Berry's Farm Shop, then onto Aysgarth Falls, Askrigg, Thwaite and Tan Hill (highest pub in British Isles), and finally along Arkengarthdale to our base, The CB Inn. Day 2:- 84 miles. Leaving the CB Inn via Reeth, Leyburn and then into Coverdale, before dropping down for coffee into Kettlewell in Wharfdale. Stunning single road scenery along the route to Mallam Tarn and Cove for the lunch stop before heading back out towards Ribblesdale and the Ribblehead Viaduct, then onto Hawes and a quick visit to the Wensleydale Creamery. The route back to the CB Inn was via Castle Bolton. Day 3:- 90 miles. Back over the fells to Leyburn but this time taking the Masham road with a stop-off at Jervaulx Abbey for coffee and a photo opportunity of the cars in front of the ruin (ask at the coffee shop for permission to do this). A right just before Masham along Nidderdale dropping down into Pately Bridge with watering holes along the way. Then onto Grassington via Stump Cross Caves, and back to Hawes via Gayle. Return route to the CB Inn from Hawes via Hardraw Falls (highest single waterfall in England), Askrigg and then over the fells to Swaledale and then Arkengarthdale taking in the watersplash along the way. Day 4:- 80 miles. Return journey via Swaledale to Muker and then over the fells to Askrigg leading to Buttertubs Pass beyond Hawes, passing the now infamous Simonstone Hall Hotel where Clarkson lamped his producer - the rest is history! Onto Thwaite, Keld and Nateby for the lunch stop at th Fat Lamb Inn, well known for it's classic car friendly owner. Finally the return route to Kirkby Stephen, Brough and Middleton in Teesdale before the final leg over the moors from Stanhope to Edmundbyres. The overall tour offers comfortable driving, stunning scenery with many points of interest and an abundance of watering holes, cafes, teas rooms and coffee shops. Attached is a copy of the Tulip Charts for each day's tour together with a 4 day overview. Feel free to use all or part of it and if you do - enjoy. Dales Tour Day 1 mid Berrys.pdf Dales Tour Day 2.pdf Dales Tour Day 3.pdf Dales Tour Day 4 final.pdf Daily Overview with map.doc
  4. You don't mention if your starter motor is standard or high torque. I experienced a similar problem on a high torque starter motor. Clearly the motor gear wasn't engaging the flywheel, yet examination of the flywheel with starter motor removed did not show any alarming damage. Examination of the motor also did not reveal any issue and testing it with battery power showed correct function with the solenoid operating and gearwheel moving along the shaft. Eventually I bit the bullet and bought another new hi-torque starter motor, fitted it and it has performed perfectly ever since. I can only assume now that although the motor gear wheel on the original motor moved enough to engage the flywheel when tested off the car, then the force behind that movement was insufficient to engage it when fitted, suggesting perhaps that the solenoid was losing performance. Check to see if the gearwheel is damaging the ring gear directly by not meshing, or if there is witness on the ring gear front face that suggests gearwheel on motor is not actually meshing. Hope it helps. TonyC
  5. TonyC

    Ol pumps

    Hi All, Moving on from starter motors and ring gear, can we turn our attention to oil pumps. Does anyone know who the manufacturers are of current replacement oil pumps from usual sources. I removed the pump in my 6, at 7000 miles, after a nut and bolt rebuild by previous owner. Clearances - rotor to spindle, and rotor to bore were above tolerance although end float was ok. The replacement pump wasn't very much better (yes clearances were out of tolerance) but I fitted it anyway. Since doing that I have scoured tinternet and forum and get the feeling that, well, all new pumps may have the dreaded scourge of 'not made in Britain' and getting a pump within tolerance may be a 'bridge too far'. So questions are:- - Is there more than one manufacturer of pump and if so who is the best, and how can they be identified? - are they all made in Asia? - has anyone found the same problem and maybe had the spindle and/or rotor electro-plated to reduce operating clearances. I have done the 'blue printing' exercise so end float is less of a problem as it can be corrected if it is excessive, but it is these clearances between moving parts that I would like to have within spec. Many thanks for your valuable input. TonyC
  6. TonyC

    Starter ring.

    Thanks all for your replies and input. Purchased a Wosp HT starter which has pinion with chamfered teeth. Discussed the problem at a recent visit to TRGB with a view to fitting a new starter ring. TRGB advised that the ring gear has chamfered teeth one side and straight cut teeth on the other. It must be fitted to the flywheel so as the chamfered teeth do NOT engage with the chamfered pinion. Hence if you use a pre-engaged starter with chamfered pinion the straight cut teeth on the ring gear must face the engine. If you fit an inertia type starter with chamfered teeth, which pulls in from front to rear, then the ring gear must be fitted so that the straight cut teeth face the gearbox side of the flywheel. Conversely if your pinion teeth do not have a chamfer the opposite is true. I have not proceeded using this rational as yet. Unfortunately unable to do the work at this moment in time so unable to provide feedback, but TRGB claim that if you have a situation where chamfered pinion teeth engage with chamfered ring gear teeth, either using pre-engaged or inertia type starter motors, premature wear and early failure of the starting mechanism will result. Could this be the reason for my early failure (only 14000 miles since rebuild) and that of other forum contributors who claim a similar outcome? It occurs to me that this could be a good question to pose to Wosp, but I notice from their web site they don't enter into any dialogue with the public who just happen to be their customer (who was always king back in the day). Worth a try I guess. Once again thanks for all help. Ongoing opinion gratefully received and will keep you posted on eventual outcome. TonyC
  7. TonyC

    Starter ring.

    Take nowt for granted. So problem is high torque starter doesn't always engage and getting more frequent. Removed starter motor, yes interior out, tunnel cover out etc etc. Pinion on motor looks not to bad, but there is marking on the ring gear teeth, but all in all it looks serviceable. Dismantled starter and all looks as it should. Witness of teeth engagement on pinion shows two thirds as it should be. Rebuild and test 1. Check that solenoid throws out the pinion. Measure distance from front of engine plate to ring gear - 28.9mm. Engagement depth confirmed ok. Test 2:- check that solenoid is thrown out and motor spins. All as it should be except on further closer (and difficult) inspection of the ring gear it looks like chamfer on the teeth face the gearbox and not as you would expect for a pre engaged motor facing the engine. A search on the forum then suggests that this has always been an issue and there is no ring gear produced for a pre engaged starter motor. Is this true? Is there a solution? Is there a source for ring gear? As usual all comments gratefully accepted.
  8. TonyC

    TR6 oil pump

    Enlightening indeed. Many thanks and keep the comments coming please. I have suffered from low oil pressure on an engine that had done only 5000 miles since rebuild. Replaced big end shells and oil pump - no difference. Now I am going to try and replace mains in situ, check the end float ( again) and thought about the quality of pumps, hence my post. Engine runs sweet, has good pressure early on but as soon as everything heats up its down to 30 psi at around 2000 rpm and a worryingly 10 at idle. Now at 14000 miles and decided to check instrument and found that the fitted gauge is reading a little high, so the actual 30 psi was reading nearer 40 so I was kidding myself that all was ok. Many thanks guys for all your input. Will research further thanks to your great references and comments. Experience is king. TonyC
  9. TonyC

    TR6 oil pump

    Hi all, Are there multiple manufacturers of oil pumps for the 6? If so which producer is best? All input appreciated. Thanks. TonyC
  10. TonyC

    TR6 oil pump

    Hi all, Are there multiple manufacturers of oil pumps for the 6? If so which producer is best?
  11. TonyC

    Gearbox oil leak

    Ok, thanks for all input gratefully accepted. Got the plugs, at least in the mail, so getting ready for the job, but I see that in new Moss catalogue they offer a complete top cover assembly for the J type box. Unfortunately the one they offer has the two switches ( reverse and O/D inhibitor,) on the top, whereas mine has one on the side and one on the top. Question:- anyone know if they are interchangeable? Thanks, TonyC
  12. TonyC

    Gearbox oil leak

    Hi All (again) Got the top off the gearbox in what might be a futile attempt to stem the flow of oil past the O rings on the three selector shafts. The plugs holding in the springs and balls which locate in the shaft indents have holes in them, so have been previously removed using a self tapper and lever. (See pics) I am reluctant to repeat this process as I may stretch the holes to a point where they won't retain the spring and ball. Anyone know of a source for replacement plugs? All of our usual TR suppliers list these parts as no longer available. I know these plugs gave been replaced with screw in type plugs ie similar to grub screws, but this needs the holes tapped and of course a source for the grub screws. Any info here would be appreciated. Many thanks, TonyC
  13. Hi all, Anyone have a source for a 'good quality / reliable replacement starter motor pinion for the high torque starter motor for the TR6. Thanks, TonyC
  14. Mark, after a bit of research I decided on this one - Exide Excell EB741. CCA of 680A and 74 ah and posts where they should be. Just be sure you don't have an issue with the mounting clamp. If you are non standard here you could end up shorting the posts together. Hope it helps, TonyC
  15. Thanks for all your valuable comments. Part appears almost certainly one of the locating dowels for the clutch assembly. Bought a spare from Moss and it us identical. Just waiting for the endoscope arriving to determine if I have a dowel missing or if this was an extra that found its way into the bell housing at some point in the vehicle's past. Many thanks all once again. TonyC
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