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About TonyC

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    Triumph TR6 1972 EFI

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  1. Anyone using the 6 with the Webcon Alpha+ or Pro5 Electronic Fuel Injection advise where to buy replacement injectors. The injectors in my PRO5 set-up are IW031 and may have a Webcon part number of WFI191. A google search wasn't very successful and even Webcon's own site doesn't list this injector. An option may be to have them refurbished. Any recommendations for this service? As always many thanks for all valuable info. TonyC
  2. Hi Keith66, Check out Car Builder Solutions - www.carbuilder.com. I've have used them before as have some pals without issues, but sadly these days almost anything can be traced back to Chinese origin. TonyC
  3. Thanks, Rich and Waldi for your informative replies. Based on your comments and further reading of Roger Williams books on rebuilding and improving 6’s, I have concluded that my existing slave is in fact a 7/8” diameter version refurbished to 1”. It’s really the only explanation given the very clear marking on the casting. I have the adjustable push rod arrangement so have ordered with some confidence a replacement 1” slave. Will let you know if there are any problems arising. Many thanks guys. TonyC
  4. Hi all, Lost the clutch. Pedal to the floor and surprise surprise no fluid in the master cylinder. Car hasn’t been driven over the winter save for a couple of mile blast a couple of weeks ago. There is no evidence of fluid leak on garage floor but that aside inspection of the slave cylinder shows a lot of wear marks on the piston, even if the seal doesn’t look bad. Anyway decided that a new slave is in order, but the one removed has County S02 10 or SO2 10 and 7/8” on outer casting surface. I see that all the usual suspects have the standard 1” slave available with the exception of Revington who also list a 7/8” bore alternative at twice the price. Now I would like replacement to be similar to existing, but to muddy the water a little more the bore of the existing cylinder is actually 1” and not 7/8” as shown on the casting. Anyone come across anything similar, and knowing that there is a lot of scepticism around regarding spare part quality are there any good recommendations for a replacement source? Would be also good to know what the actual size of the standard 1” bore slave is - 1 1/8” maybe? I attach a couple of pics for reference. As usual many thanks in anticipation for all gems of wisdom from what is the best knowledge database on the planet. thanks, TonyC
  5. Just an endorsement for the forum and valuable input from so many folks with experience who thankfully participate. I just replaced the flexible steering coupling on my 6. It took a couple of hours thanks to the tips I found in these pages. After removing the old one - reasonably straight forward I clamped the new coupling with a 50-70 mm jubilee clip and tightened it almost to destruction. This compressed it sufficiently to align the mounting holes. Then with front wheels off the deck, I was able to get each socket head screw started in the respective brackets. By just engaging the first couple of threads into the lower bracket the coupling is free to tilt to favourably align with the upper. Once you have the bolts located into the upper bracket you can then just turn the steering wheel to provide access for final tightening. I cut an Allen key (actually 5.5mm) short enough to engage into a 1/4" drive socket with enough protruding to engage the socket head screw (see pic). Using a small ratchet wrench on the socket it was easy and quick to tighten the socket screws, which otherwise are a bit of a pain having big fingers, poor access and an Allen key. Don't forget the locking wire, and as others have highlighted - be carefully to retain orientation of the steering wheel - it isn't all that difficult to get it 180 degrees out, and rotate the column to achieve the best screw to bracket alignment and access. Thanks to all for the previous forum input. Incidentally the old one was fitted in 2005 and has done 24000 miles, so can't complain. Will keep a check on the new one and hope that it performs to the same level. TonyC
  6. You get about Roger. No doubt you know that there is a bigger rail network on the Yorkshire Moors - Pickering to Grosmont. Well worth a visit if you haven't been already. You can also take in a visit to Mathewsons Classic Car museum and auction house at Thornton Le Dale, a couple of miles from Pickering. This is the place featured in Bangers and Cash on Yesterday channel. Super, and Derek would love a chat with you no doubt. This is the Flying Scotsman on the North York Moors Railway just approaching Goathland. Tony
  7. Tan Hill pub full of farmers. Can't believe it Roger....... Bet the carpark was full of John Deers, and probably the odd Fergy! Have not as yet enjoyed the rail link between Remire and Leeming Bar. Something on the 'to-do' list. Hopefully that line will be extended and you will be able to take a train deep into the Dales. We ran out of time to visit Dent Tim. Definitely next time with the group, but I've been there a few times. Definitely quirky, long may it last. Is that a pint of Black Sheep? Scottish Highland cattle in Yorkshire - it really has everything Marcel. I am guessing that may have been in Coverdale, en-route to or from Kettlewell. 20 TR's - would have been a wonderful sight. Our groups should have met up and driven some of those roads together. We're only 30 minutes from Scotch Corner. In fact judging by your rally plate I bet you came via our patch with DFDS from Amsterdam. Next time ! Tony
  8. Northumbria Group's 4 day tour of the Yorkshire Dales covered in excess of 350 miles, visiting many of the famous landmarks and places of interest. The route included narrow roads, hairpins and gradients with the odd ford thrown in, but nothing too demanding. Day 1:- 60 miles. From the meet-up point at Raby Castle the first days incursion into the dales was via Gilling West, Richmond, Leyburn, with lunch stop at Berry's Farm Shop, then onto Aysgarth Falls, Askrigg, Thwaite and Tan Hill (highest pub in British Isles), and finally along Arkengarthdale to our base, The CB Inn. Day 2:- 84 miles. Leaving the CB Inn via Reeth, Leyburn and then into Coverdale, before dropping down for coffee into Kettlewell in Wharfdale. Stunning single road scenery along the route to Mallam Tarn and Cove for the lunch stop before heading back out towards Ribblesdale and the Ribblehead Viaduct, then onto Hawes and a quick visit to the Wensleydale Creamery. The route back to the CB Inn was via Castle Bolton. Day 3:- 90 miles. Back over the fells to Leyburn but this time taking the Masham road with a stop-off at Jervaulx Abbey for coffee and a photo opportunity of the cars in front of the ruin (ask at the coffee shop for permission to do this). A right just before Masham along Nidderdale dropping down into Pately Bridge with watering holes along the way. Then onto Grassington via Stump Cross Caves, and back to Hawes via Gayle. Return route to the CB Inn from Hawes via Hardraw Falls (highest single waterfall in England), Askrigg and then over the fells to Swaledale and then Arkengarthdale taking in the watersplash along the way. Day 4:- 80 miles. Return journey via Swaledale to Muker and then over the fells to Askrigg leading to Buttertubs Pass beyond Hawes, passing the now infamous Simonstone Hall Hotel where Clarkson lamped his producer - the rest is history! Onto Thwaite, Keld and Nateby for the lunch stop at th Fat Lamb Inn, well known for it's classic car friendly owner. Finally the return route to Kirkby Stephen, Brough and Middleton in Teesdale before the final leg over the moors from Stanhope to Edmundbyres. The overall tour offers comfortable driving, stunning scenery with many points of interest and an abundance of watering holes, cafes, teas rooms and coffee shops. Attached is a copy of the Tulip Charts for each day's tour together with a 4 day overview. Feel free to use all or part of it and if you do - enjoy. Dales Tour Day 1 mid Berrys.pdf Dales Tour Day 2.pdf Dales Tour Day 3.pdf Dales Tour Day 4 final.pdf Daily Overview with map.doc
  9. You don't mention if your starter motor is standard or high torque. I experienced a similar problem on a high torque starter motor. Clearly the motor gear wasn't engaging the flywheel, yet examination of the flywheel with starter motor removed did not show any alarming damage. Examination of the motor also did not reveal any issue and testing it with battery power showed correct function with the solenoid operating and gearwheel moving along the shaft. Eventually I bit the bullet and bought another new hi-torque starter motor, fitted it and it has performed perfectly ever since. I can only assume now that although the motor gear wheel on the original motor moved enough to engage the flywheel when tested off the car, then the force behind that movement was insufficient to engage it when fitted, suggesting perhaps that the solenoid was losing performance. Check to see if the gearwheel is damaging the ring gear directly by not meshing, or if there is witness on the ring gear front face that suggests gearwheel on motor is not actually meshing. Hope it helps. TonyC
  10. TonyC

    Ol pumps

    Hi All, Moving on from starter motors and ring gear, can we turn our attention to oil pumps. Does anyone know who the manufacturers are of current replacement oil pumps from usual sources. I removed the pump in my 6, at 7000 miles, after a nut and bolt rebuild by previous owner. Clearances - rotor to spindle, and rotor to bore were above tolerance although end float was ok. The replacement pump wasn't very much better (yes clearances were out of tolerance) but I fitted it anyway. Since doing that I have scoured tinternet and forum and get the feeling that, well, all new pumps may have the dreaded scourge of 'not made in Britain' and getting a pump within tolerance may be a 'bridge too far'. So questions are:- - Is there more than one manufacturer of pump and if so who is the best, and how can they be identified? - are they all made in Asia? - has anyone found the same problem and maybe had the spindle and/or rotor electro-plated to reduce operating clearances. I have done the 'blue printing' exercise so end float is less of a problem as it can be corrected if it is excessive, but it is these clearances between moving parts that I would like to have within spec. Many thanks for your valuable input. TonyC
  11. TonyC

    Starter ring.

    Thanks all for your replies and input. Purchased a Wosp HT starter which has pinion with chamfered teeth. Discussed the problem at a recent visit to TRGB with a view to fitting a new starter ring. TRGB advised that the ring gear has chamfered teeth one side and straight cut teeth on the other. It must be fitted to the flywheel so as the chamfered teeth do NOT engage with the chamfered pinion. Hence if you use a pre-engaged starter with chamfered pinion the straight cut teeth on the ring gear must face the engine. If you fit an inertia type starter with chamfered teeth, which pulls in from front to rear, then the ring gear must be fitted so that the straight cut teeth face the gearbox side of the flywheel. Conversely if your pinion teeth do not have a chamfer the opposite is true. I have not proceeded using this rational as yet. Unfortunately unable to do the work at this moment in time so unable to provide feedback, but TRGB claim that if you have a situation where chamfered pinion teeth engage with chamfered ring gear teeth, either using pre-engaged or inertia type starter motors, premature wear and early failure of the starting mechanism will result. Could this be the reason for my early failure (only 14000 miles since rebuild) and that of other forum contributors who claim a similar outcome? It occurs to me that this could be a good question to pose to Wosp, but I notice from their web site they don't enter into any dialogue with the public who just happen to be their customer (who was always king back in the day). Worth a try I guess. Once again thanks for all help. Ongoing opinion gratefully received and will keep you posted on eventual outcome. TonyC
  12. TonyC

    Starter ring.

    Take nowt for granted. So problem is high torque starter doesn't always engage and getting more frequent. Removed starter motor, yes interior out, tunnel cover out etc etc. Pinion on motor looks not to bad, but there is marking on the ring gear teeth, but all in all it looks serviceable. Dismantled starter and all looks as it should. Witness of teeth engagement on pinion shows two thirds as it should be. Rebuild and test 1. Check that solenoid throws out the pinion. Measure distance from front of engine plate to ring gear - 28.9mm. Engagement depth confirmed ok. Test 2:- check that solenoid is thrown out and motor spins. All as it should be except on further closer (and difficult) inspection of the ring gear it looks like chamfer on the teeth face the gearbox and not as you would expect for a pre engaged motor facing the engine. A search on the forum then suggests that this has always been an issue and there is no ring gear produced for a pre engaged starter motor. Is this true? Is there a solution? Is there a source for ring gear? As usual all comments gratefully accepted.
  13. TonyC

    TR6 oil pump

    Enlightening indeed. Many thanks and keep the comments coming please. I have suffered from low oil pressure on an engine that had done only 5000 miles since rebuild. Replaced big end shells and oil pump - no difference. Now I am going to try and replace mains in situ, check the end float ( again) and thought about the quality of pumps, hence my post. Engine runs sweet, has good pressure early on but as soon as everything heats up its down to 30 psi at around 2000 rpm and a worryingly 10 at idle. Now at 14000 miles and decided to check instrument and found that the fitted gauge is reading a little high, so the actual 30 psi was reading nearer 40 so I was kidding myself that all was ok. Many thanks guys for all your input. Will research further thanks to your great references and comments. Experience is king. TonyC
  14. TonyC

    TR6 oil pump

    Hi all, Are there multiple manufacturers of oil pumps for the 6? If so which producer is best? All input appreciated. Thanks. TonyC
  15. TonyC

    TR6 oil pump

    Hi all, Are there multiple manufacturers of oil pumps for the 6? If so which producer is best?
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