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Posts posted by Geko
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I had a look at the WSM TR4 and indeed it shows the lifting points on the side of the wheel arches but that's 1962. Is that to say that there was no holes for seat belts at the time and that these were added later on TR4A body specifically for the seats belts? My 4A never had 3 points seat belts until my ownership but the holes were there but covered by the trim, so my assumption was that these were the actual new lifting points.
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Because there was no 3 points seat belts at the time, only lap seat belts, if any at all. The hole used for seat belt anchor is an afterthought
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these holes are original and also used as lifting point for the body
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Did you plan for any substantial jobs ? (no pun intended)
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I think you ought to explain why chroming the tip of the steering column. Took me some scroll up to understand
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13 hours ago, Z320 said:
...especially the reverse will please my wife!
a bit of tasteful humour, at last
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finish is gloss
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As stated: TR4 = round, TR4A = square. But the round has the handy button which the square does not have so even on 4A I would install the round one and change the inaccessible location at the same time
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yes years before....
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No, that's not original. Original TR4/A is the banjo type 16'. Many tall drivers have swapped the original TR4/A for a GT6/Spitfire/Herald banjo type with deeper dish, hence improved comfort.
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12 hours ago, Jase said:
Question, if you do this where do you secure your spare fan belt?
A bit iconoclastic but my emergency stretchable fan belt was... in the boot.
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2 hours ago, Greg said:
Me again, sorry.
I have another question. Where is the rubber sealing roof to backlight fitted on the roof. Does this fit so it sits on the the inner frame of the backlight and should there be a seal on the inner frame?
Greg
Just to be clear, the one supplied by the usuals is not made of rubber but spongy foam
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33kg.. double the weight of an aluminium. The max lift height will be less than advertised especially with the the small wheels.
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You should be able to move the damper arm by hand without any other leverage.
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3 hours ago, Jase said:
Well, spot on with the engine mounts, onejust popped so ordered a new set, changing all of the hoses at the moment and a new peyrol pipe kit on the way to battle the old ethanol.
I suspect you jacked-up the engine without loosening the engine mounts bolts and probably why it popped...
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The stress is most likely due to seized hinges, they would need to come off and given some TLC
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Happy to see that common sense prevails in swapping the fuel bowls lids and running the fuel line through the rear of the engine.
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Striker is alright. It is counter-intuitive but you may want to slide the sticker outboard + up and down AND turn the door latch gear with your finger one clic at at time as there's room for adjustment there. It's trial and errors until you get it right. It is the position of the gear relative to the teeth of the sticker (red arrow) that matters most
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I had done the very same mod during my first resto in 2009 on a very tatty chassis. When I dismantled the car to replace the chassis 10 years later I noticed that the square area where the plates are fitted started fracturing at the folds, which leads me to believe that big fat washers would probably to a better job in spreading the load than square plates.
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TR4 selling advice
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Ebay is a laboratory for sellers to figure out what they can get for their goods, that's why Ebay is mostly expensive. Just use that platform to get an idea of what the global market is ready to fork out. Then fine tune the price for selling.