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Everything posted by Geko

  1. Recovery. Probably pump jammed
  2. looks more like a tool though the casting says otherwise, can't imagine this operating on a running engine or a least not fitted on a water pump.
  3. I think Mick's suggestion is a one-off solution to reverse course in case one's not happy with the driving result after skimming the blocks and that can take place anytime. Fan belt replacement isn't relevant here.
  4. You must be more pedantic than I am, it took me 1/2 hour for the entire process. Cut the rubber with scissors. It might not be perfectly even but hey it's only a vent lid and I remembered Newton's law of gravitation whereby the water would spill downwards
  5. Probably no noticeable difference. The point is about the articulation or travel of the tie rods. In a modified set up, there will be no change in the travel of the tie rods upward (compression) or downward (extension). However the academic question is whether a modified setup is allowable and will/not trigger over articulation of the tie rod on compression considering that the original angle (~5 degree) of the tie rod relative to the rack will close and will be reported towards the neck of the tie rod which could hit the flange of the steering rack on full compression. Original rubber mounts do exactly the job of mitigating that risk but here we're talking about solid mounts...
  6. Alright so for my rebuild I treated the vent lid: 1/ cut the inner and outer lips so it's 7 mm high; 2/ cut off the part of the seal that is under the hinge to make the vent lid sit flush with the scuttle top panel; 3/ ground the heads of the vent fixing screws and removed the washers so they don't fool the vent lid; 4/ ground the forward edge of the hinge by 1 mm to prevent the rear of the vent lid from fooling the scuttle top panel. Now it's good until it's back from the paint shop, then that will be another story I reckon.
  7. The seal height is 11 mm including the height of the lip. It is 7 mm without the lip.
  8. Looks like the Koyo bearing syndrome. See attachment, the 3 alternatives Release+Bearing.pdf
  9. I have exactly that same combination in Snap-on as an addition to my regular spanner and ratchet sets. Extremely useful, bit of feel-the-torque thing too. Snap-on may be over the top price wise, so is Facom. My other sets are Genius brand - bullet-proof, half the price of Snap-on/Facom and (my) life time guaranteed. You may find them online by the piece or set i.e. http://www.toolninjas.com/product-p/gw-7708s.htm
  10. 15. Flip the door opening handle upwards 16. Buy a german car. And if you want a taste of englishness in your german car, get a Mini
  11. I already have spacers and fitted a thicker front engine plate (6mm) so if I add another spacer I'll be short of thread on the mounts, plus the engine tilt is already more than enough to my liking...
  12. Gents, while rebuilding I realized that If I can skim the blocks of the solid mounts by 3mm, there will be enough clearance to remove the fan belt without resorting to undoing the engine mounts and lift the engine. Question: Is there any contra in doing so ? Thanks
  13. Alright, by accident i found that the above washer is for the block drain tap
  14. You can delete this setup, install the pancake filters and run a rubber hose plugged in the rocker cover on one end and let lose down to the chassis on the other end. Blow-bys will be released to atmosphere and your air/fuel mixture will improve. PS: Do your new paint job a favor in adding a battery tray...
  15. Geko

    surrey top

    It's a long time i've given up using brute force on the TR. For the surrey, 1/ I elongated the windshield legs mounting brackets holes in the scuttle top to increase the windscreen rake and 2/ the rear surrey bar stays bolted on the backlight while the top is fastened to the bar with 8 snap fasteners.
  16. Look for cracks on the TA brackets. I found out while investigating rear end squeaks
  17. Gents, I seem to remember that the rear washer diameter (red arrow) is larger than the front to allow oil to flow around the bolt and feed the gauge through the banjo, is this correct ? Now I have plenty of copper washers of the same diameter but the only one that seem to fit the diameter requirement is not copper but soft composite material (see picture). Can anyone confirm/infirm that it's the correct washer or does it need to be copper? Thanks
  18. It backfires because it is flooded and fuel is building up in the venturi, it usually starts at the rear carb. Check if the oil level in the dampers is correct (engine oil Ok)
  19. They are actually meant to be stronger than the original but the quality of modern rubber is a concern and yes rubber do fail after 2-3 years but I've never heard of the ball popping out of the housing. The alternative would be trying something similar to the TR4 design
  20. Geko


    Yep, Standard bush are actually nylon inserts with shield and sealing ring etc... but you can't combine this setup (they come as a kit) in using polybush as bush. If you're using polybush, you install only the tube, the bush and the washers, not the shield neither the rings
  21. Thanks all for your ideas and inputs. I found this local to me. It's neat and has the desired specs. I discarded the adhesive option because of exposure to the elements, wouldn't last.
  22. remove the steering wheel with the cordless wrench you have in your garage.
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