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About Penfold

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    Surrey, UK

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  1. Thanks all...just to answer some of your questions...The injector leads are not braided - they look like originals....The fuel was quite new - less than a couple of months old...Standard points fitted (not electronic)....Coil seemed good - getting a good spark when turning the engine over. It seemed fuel related - one thing I omitted....the young mechanic (bless him) suggested the plugs looked a little dry when we took a couple out. I didn't have any reference to make any real judgement on it. I wasn't aware PIs run rich at idle - but this seems logical. My theory is - temperature in the garage was warm(ish), idling engine running rich, temp of fuel rising (it had been running for over an hour-and-a-half if you add up the idle time before leaving, run to the garage and idling during MOT), rising fuel temp causes it to vapourize, fuel pressure drops, PI continues to demand rich mixture at idle - and just gets starved. The 10-15 minute refusal to start caused by the time it took for the fuel temp to fall and vapourization to cease so the the pump could do its thing. It did pass the MOT in the end!
  2. Hello all - took my PI in for an MOT yesterday. It hadn't been run for a while so, before leaving, I left it running for 20mins with a bit of choke before driving over the to garage. On arrival, parked up, switched off and about 25 mins later the mechanic started it up, drove it onto the ramp and left the engine idling (800rpm, no choke) for about 45mins (he was on his own and the reception phone was ringing all the time, so it took a bit longer than normal). The engine was idling throughout. Just as he was finishing up (engine still running), it cut out. And could not be restarted. Fuel pump was running ok, gauge temperature normal, about half a tank of fuel, and plenty of spark. After about 10-15mins of farting about and just before I was about to remove one of the injectors, I'd sort of given up and elected to phone recovery (the young lad doing the MOT looked terrified and confessed it was beyond him - where do I plug the laptop in? etc). At this point I wandered out of the back of the garage and decided to call recovery. While on the phone to them, the mechanic had managed to start it and drove it around to me. Left it running, finished all the paperwork and drove 20 or so miles pretty hard before bringing it home. All seems well and I couldn't fault it. It's never done this before - I've had it for 8 years and have had many situations of being stuck in slow moving traffic on a very hot day without any problems at all (the only difference being able to rev the engine from time to time and using the additional manually-switched cooling fan in the engine bay). Could this be my first experience of fuel cavitation? (I'm afraid I don't know: how hot the fuel pump was or whether there's any blockage in the tank or return feed). It did pass its MOT which was nice.
  3. Doh! Of course...I'll get me coat..thanks guys, I'm being an idiot!
  4. Hello all, Just trying to replace the water pump and can't seem to get it off the housing. It looks as though the studs connecting it to the housing are not in (to the housing) far enough. This means there's not enough room between the housing and pulley for the nut to come off the end of the stud (see attached photo). This is slowly driving me nuts! Does anyone have any ideas how to get the studs further into the housing to give the nuts more room to come off? The pulley wheel doesn't come off (fixed unit). I can only assume the studs must have come out a bit since the pump and housing was put together otherwise I'm not sure how it could have been assembled in the first place. Any clues gratefully received. Thanks all...
  5. The same thing happened to me. Consistently showing 1/4 tank less than actual. First thing to do is check the gauge - do this by disconnecting the spade connectors on the tank sender unit and connect them together using a paper clip stuffed into each end of the wire and joining (careful not to touch any other wire/metal). Turn the ignition on - the gauge should go to full. If it doesn't there's either a wiring or gauge fault. Assuming the wiring/gauge are good, it's very likely to be the sender unit itself - it's just a variable resistor which alters the gauge needle position as the float goes up/down. My sender was broken somewhere within the resistor component - I replaced it and all is good. It's possible to get the tank out without disconnecting everything - remove top bolts and the bottom right side bolts, loosen the others and the tank will tip forward enough to get access to the sender. You may also need to disconnect the fuel return pipe towards the top front of the tank (as you're looking at it). I bought replacement from Rimmers which seems to be working ok.
  6. Definitely get the wheels re-balanced. You can get some very odd things going on if more than one wheel is out of whack and the effect can vary depending on speed and road conditions depending on how much each wheel is out-of-balance. Also....if you have wire wheels - don't let the muppets at the mainstream tyre fitters do the re-balancing (or tyre fitting for that matter) - the wheels will 'seem' balanced but be far from it...Wire wheel balancing requires specialist gear and know-how.
  7. Definitely the pads - less of a click and more of a rattle as the pads move about in the calipers - gentle braking will always stop it immediately. Although it appears to be coming from the right front, it could be coming from both sides (you just hear the side you're nearest to). It drove me mad but an easy fix....
  8. Penfold

    Fuel sender

    Thanks! I'll give it a go. Just need to drive around some more to empty the tank. It's a hard life! Thanks again.
  9. Penfold

    Fuel sender

    Justin - you're a star! Thanks for putting me in the picture. It's always encouraging when you find someone who's already done what you're trying to do....just a couple more questions: - I'm assuming you can disconnect the return pipe from the boot side of the tank and don't need to go in from the luggage compartment (behind the seats)...? - Did you get your replacement sender from Rimmers or somewhere else? (Just need to make sure the one I buy isn't worse than the original!) Thanks again, David
  10. Penfold

    Fuel sender

    Thanks for your responses. Does anyone have any experience with changing the fuel sender without removing the whole fuel tank - just tipping it forwards a little? Would be very interested in any tips. Thanks all. David
  11. Penfold

    Fuel sender

    For a while now I've noticed that fuel gauge never quite makes it to the full position even when the tank is filled right up to the neck of the filler tube. I've read various posts and have checked the gauge by earthing the sender feed - which shows all is well as the gauge goes to full. I have a feeling the float on the sender may no longer be watertight which is causing the lower-than-actual reading at the gauge. Before I replace the sender I have a couple of questions: - I read on one of the many posts that you can release the filler tube and hinge the fuel tank forwards just enough to get the sender out without having to drain and completely remove the tank and pipe fixings. I assume this is simply a case of removing the top bolts on the tank and loosening the bottom ones to allow it to slip forward - am I right? (I really don't want to cause any damage to anything - especially any pipe fixings - so it would be good to know if there are any tricks to this I need to be aware of). - The previous owner went a bit mad with sealant around the sender gasket - I assume to make damn sure no fuel leaked. Is this really necessary or should the gasket do its job assuming it's screwed nice and tight? Any tips or clues most appreciated. Thanks all, David
  12. Penfold

    Another scam?

    Interesting. The carmine red TR6 at the link below looks to be taken outside John Andon Classic Cars' workshop at EE Holloway in Byfleet, Surrey. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR6-RED-1970-/281944224130?hash=item41a52f7182:g:SbsAAOSwPc9WzSB6 The workshop closed a few years ago, so the photos must be pretty old too. The original pics can be found at the below link. Incredible what these scammers will try. http://www.johnandonclassiccars.co.uk/tr-6-1969/
  13. I had the same problem a while back - oscillating needle and underestimating speed. Changed the cable and drive which actually made the oscillations more wild. In the end, sent the speedo to JDO and now it's rock solid and as accurate as it will ever be. A useful tip - you can check the diff, gearbox, wheels etc all in one go - drive a circuit of 10 miles in a modern car. Drive the same circuit in the TR6 - if it shows 10 miles distance (give or take a couple of tenths), you know the diff etc are all ok. If not, record the modern car and TR6 mileage difference shown (to the nearest tenth) and send the speedo to JDO for speed and odometer calibrating. It'll come back as near to perfect as you'll ever get - www.jdo1.com
  14. Fixed a hole in the rocker cover with some tin solder which stopped an oil leak I'd be meaning to fix for several years - straightened the cover up a bit, cleaned and touched up plus a new gasket ....And replaced all the loathsome filament bulbs in the dash illumination with some excellent LED alternatives from www.bettercarlighting.co.uk...what a difference - the photos don't really do it justice but definitely worth the sore back, aching muscles and moderate swearing....
  15. Penfold

    lead replacement

    Ah! Thanks Peter. This may be why you can't seem to buy Castrol Valvemaster Plus anywhere at all now. They may have withdrawn it completely. There's Millers VSPe but as far as I can tell you need a lot more of it per fill up. I've been buying Wynn's Lead substitute (Halfords) - 250ml bottle treats 250 litres of fuel. Millers appears to be 40 litres fuel per 250ml bottle so I can see why Razza asked his original question.
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