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Everything posted by mikeh

  1. Hi, You have a PM Regards Mike
  2. Hi Pete, Have sent you a PM Thanks Mike
  3. Hi Willie, As mentioned, I recently bought GSD 111 (48") as a replacement and it fits fine, although I must admit I hadn't spotted that Revington actually list GSD 113 (51") as their recommendation. The 48" version doesn't seem tight in any respect so the extra 3" is probably neither here nor there really and either cable will be a big improvement on what you've got at the moment. The route, at least as my installation, is between the rear of the rocker cover and the battery, with a supporting p-clip on the driver's side battery clamp, and then down between the master cylinders to th
  4. Hi Willie, The Moss catalogue shows the TR4 RHD tacho cable as 48" in length and this is what I've recently fitted to my own car. The part number is GSD111 and its used on many other cars of the same era so is widely available. You'll find that this will fit much better than your present cable which looks to be quite a lot too long. Hope this helps Regards Mike
  5. Hi Don, I'm sure there will be others too but the firm I've used is E. P. Services - link below: http://www.ep-services.co.uk/ Hope this helps Regards Mike
  6. Hi Pascal, I've previously used multicore solder as a substitute for the lead linger - it works well. You need only a few inches and, if you don't have any in the garage, short lengths aren't expensive on eBay and are readily available. Hope this helps Regards Mike
  7. If you have the original two-coil RB106 regulator fitted, an alternative approach is detailed in an article by Dr Hugo Holden: http://nebula.wsimg.com/9b5ab93a42d604fc86461adc4d298878?AccessKeyId=967E22DE049163134A29&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 This involves swapping the A and A1 connections and, as explained in the article, gives significantly improved performance. It can't generate more output from the dynamo of course, but it does give better voltage regulation and reduces under/overcharging across the load range. Apart from swapping the wiring, all that's required is a sl
  8. Just to update this thread ................. I did eventually find someone to supply/fit the required throttle spindle bushes. Most of the usual suspects either wouldn't touch Strombergs or would only do the work as part of a complete overhaul/refurbishment. However, both Southern Carbs (as recommended by Stuart) and G.W.Carbs would fit bushes to a stripped-down body, which is what I wanted. I opted for Glen Watson at G.W.Carbs - despite his web address (www.sucarbs.co.uk) he does deal with other types too. He did an excellent job quickly and at a very reasonable cost. (Usual disclaimers, etc.
  9. I’m looking to replace the carpets in my TR4 as they’re somewhat the worse for wear. Having researched previous posts on the subject, the consensus seems to be that the sets from the TR Shop offer both a good fit and good value for money (I’m looking at a standard set rather than wool). However, they’re currently out of stock and, having been promised some weeks ago that they’d be in by now, I’ve just been told that they’ll be at least a further 4-6 weeks. Does anyone know, by any chance, who actually manufactures these for the TR Shop or whether their supplier’s carpets are availabl
  10. Hi Bob, Thanks for the very kind offer - much appreciated. I think I'm ok at the moment but, if I have a problem when I've been able to get a better look at the faulty one currently fitted and compared it with my spare, then I'll get back to you if that's ok. I may be missing something (ref John's post above) but there doesn't seem to be anything obviously handed about the spare (there's no part number on it) but, without a closer look at the door internals, it's difficult to be certain. Regards Mike
  11. Hi, Is anyone able to tell me whether the door remote control assembly is handed? There are two numbers in the parts book (750171 & 750172) but, on the face of it, it looks as though it should work on either side. Any help appreciated. Thanks Mike
  12. Hi Steve, You have a PM Regards Mike
  13. Hi Steve, I'm in the process of refurbishing the seats for my 4 at the moment and decided to cut my own foam rather than pay the eye-watering prices you mention. A square of 2" thick material large enough to do the base or back of one seat cost me £6 and a large sheet of 1/2" for the edge, etc (large enough for both seats) was another £10, so I paid £34 for the foam to do both seats. It's very straightforward to cut and shape the blocks with an old bread knife and, by sticking sections together, it's easy to build up the required shape. I'm fortunate to have a foam shop nearby but th
  14. Hi Berry, Yes, it's definitely not a job for which I have either the kit or the skills, but there are quite a few carb rebuilders around. The challenge has been finding one who will a) deal with Strombergs (a number of them won't) and b) will do the re-bushing on its own without it being part of a full rebuild. I've now got a couple of promising leads so hopefully will get it sorted. Regards Mike
  15. Hi Stuart, Thanks for this - I'll give them a call. I've also found another place which might do the work so hopefully I'll get something sorted. Regards Mike
  16. Hi Peter & Jochem, Thanks for your replies. The early CD175 carbs, as fitted to the TR4/4A, don't have the spindle seals you describe, so, although the bearing sounds a very neat & easy solution for the later carb design, unfortunately it doesn't work in the same way on the earlier one. As the spindles run directly in the carb body and it's the body which is worn, there doesn't look to be any alternative to machining the body and installing a bush/bearing of some type. Oversize spindles are available for SU carbs but seemingly not for Strombergs. I'm therefore looking fo
  17. Hi Kevin, Thanks very much for that - I hadn't spotted that Moss actually do a bush for repairing the worn carb body. I think these are probably designed for SU carbs as they're for a 5/16" throttle spindle whereas the Stromberg is 8mm but, as there's only a few thou difference, there should be enough wall thickness to allow them to be reamed to suit. That's a great start so I now need to find someone who can do the machining work necessary to fit them - any suggestions gratefully received! Regards Mike
  18. Last year, I rebuilt the Strombergs on my 4 and, after some faffing around with float levels, got them running a lot better than they had been previously. However, the one issue which I was unable to tackle was that of leakage around the throttle spindles and I've now concluded that this is why I’m struggling to get a decent idle. There's no wear on the shaft - it’s actually the carb body which is worn as there was no bush fitted originally and the spindle simply runs in a bare hole in the casting. It’s difficult to measure the wear but, using a dial gauge, I reckon there’s about 5 tho
  19. Thanks for the Ebay link Iain. I had spotted this before and am trying to get some dimensions as, just to complicate matters, there was more than one size of mirror available and I'm not currently certain which I've actually got fitted. From what I've found out to date, there was a Mini variant (the Ebay ones) and a larger version (which is what I suspect I have). The heads differed in size but I'm not yet clear about the bases. Regards Mike
  20. Hi, I realise this is a bit of a long shot, but here goes................my TR4 came with a Paddy Hopkirk mirror on the driver's door (see attached pics) and I'd like to find a matching one for the nearside. If anyone has one they'd be prepared to sell, or knows where I might find one, then I'd be interested to hear from you. There are similar aftermarket ones around and I could buy a new matching pair, but the issue is finding one with a footprint which will cover that left by the existing driver's side mirror. Any bright ideas would be welcome! Thanks Mike
  21. Just as a follow-up to the original post, I have now stripped down the carbs to check/sort this. I found that the floats were slightly out, by about 2mm, i.e. a setting of 19.5mm when measured in the stated manner. I therefore reset them to the Kastner/Burlen recommended figure of 17.5mm and this has made a huge improvement. It's eliminated the hesitancy which I'd otherwise been unable to solve and the carbs are now set just a flat or two from the recommended start point of three complete turns down, whereas previously they had to be more than a full turn lower (richer) to get any sort of
  22. mikeh


    Hi Andy, I've actually just removed the servo on my 4 and had quite a game trying to sort a blanking plug for the manifold tapping. In the end, I found a reference to it in the workshop manual as being 1/8" NPTF. As far as I can ascertain, this is effectively the same as NPT and the 1/8" NPT plug I bought certainly does the job. Hope this helps Regards Mike
  23. Hi Malbaby, Thanks for your note. Yes, I've replaced the floats and needle valves (matching sets) and it's as a result of doing so that the question has arisen about what the float height should be. Prior to replacing them, the floats (black composition type) were in a poor state and the needle valves could easily be persuaded to stick. Given that Kastner & Burlen are in agreement on 11/16" / 17.5mm, I'm inclined to go with that figure and see how I get on. Mike
  24. Thanks for the further comments. A friend and fellow TR owner has sent me a page (attached) from Kas Kastner's book which has a section about Stromberg carbs. Interestingly, Kastner says that they are sensitive to float level and gives a table of values, the key one from my perspective being 17.5mm (11/16") for composition (solid) floats on CD175 carbs. He does say that this is as advised by "the folks at Stromberg" (i.e. Burlen) and it matches the figure they gave me when I spoke to them. Quite where the ST workshop manual figure of 9/16" (14.3mm) comes from I'm now not sure, as I hav
  25. Hi Andy, Plenty of good advice on the earlier posts but I thought I’d just mention that I had a problem last year which sounds very similar to yours, albeit mine was somewhat intermittent. After a lot of investigation and research, I eventually decided that it must be related to the servo air valve piston sticking slightly. Disconnecting the servo solved the problem and confirmed the diagnosis. However, be warned if you think of disconnecting the servo ………. not long after I did so, the seal failed in the master cylinder, resulting in a sudden and total loss of braking. Fortunately,
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