Jump to content

F1loco

Registered User
  • Content Count

    390
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sunny Isle Florida
  • Cars Owned:
    Too many to list ...

Recent Profile Visitors

296 profile views
  1. Already have alternator in place, so no generator issues. So I see Racetorations sells an uprated tensioner that is "15%" thicker - is it worth it over what Moss sales? Only issue is, I am across the pond so shipping is nearly double what the part costs? Just don't want to "repeat" this swap out process of the sprockets, chain and tensioner again if and until I have a major internal melt down requiring the engine to be pulled. - Don
  2. Of course that assumes the previous owner, who has cut corners I am finding out, degree'd it correctly. LOL. Getting pretty quick at disassembling the front end and engine bay.
  3. Thanks. Z320, that first clip sounds like what I heard in rocking the crank which apparently the loose slack in the chain. As long as I set the crank to TDC before unbolting everything, I should just be able to simply "reinstall" as stopped and not have timing issues with the CAM or do I have to re-degree the CAM?
  4. LOL. I just walked in. Put the old engine stethoscope on and "wagged" the fan back and forth and could definitely here a metal clang/click from where the tensioner is fitted. When I put it on the fan extension hub at the base by the pulley, the sound dissipated. That said, I have to strip it down to get to the crank bolt anyway and as you say work my way back into the engine. Going to convert to a skinny belt. Just have to decide on OEM set up or harmonic balancer and electric fan since I'll have it all apart any way.
  5. It's odd b/c I drove it around for a few hundred miles post new belt/alternator with no issue. It wasn't until the other day after a hot warm up and then idle at a light I heard the clacking noise from the front end. Removed the water pump pulley thinking it was rubbing, even swapped it with another one I had, but no luck, and as mentioned there are no fan blade marks on the alternator. Will try to see if I can attempt to secure all but the crank nut with radiator removal and "hope" for something loose. From the sounds of it, I'll order one of the skinny belt kits that preserve the fan as well. My new belt got chewed momentarily when I first started it up and didn't notice it wasn't quite right on the crank on start up. Urgh ... And no, haven't turned the engine backwards. But if I have to pull it all to check the crank bolt for the extension, guess it will be time order parts. I know I'll need a new tensioner, cover/plate seal, and chain, but is it worth pre-ordering a set of crank/cam gears as well? Is there anything else? I read something about "locking tabs"? Local British car shop quoted me close to $1200-1500 for the swap, but can't work me in for a couple of months. Don't think I have that kind of patience anymore to wait that long. Thanks. Don
  6. Yes, but is the $600 in parts worth it? Moss carries the belt conversion for $320, and the fan, sensors, mounts is about another $200, plus the tensioner, chain, seals, gaskets, etc. Don
  7. Unfortunately no. Even after taking the belt off, still getting rattling. Given the history of the previous owner and what has (or hasn't been done correctly) I am tempted to pull it and do a complete do over. BUT, a few hundred in bits and pieces and a couple of days is appealing as well..... Don
  8. Found a kit from BPNorthwest that will retain the fan hub extension and plastic fan. What all do I need to buy if I attempt to make this repair on my own? Obviously the best chain I can find and tensioner, but as far as seals/gaskets/locking tabs, etc? Hoping the gears are OK but won't know that until I get it tore down.
  9. So I am afraid it is the chain tensioner - just moved the water pump pulley and ran the motor briefly - still clattering. Maybe it's time to upgrade to the skinny belt set up? Of course, that means an electric fan as well?
  10. Attaching a pic as I just pulled the Alt again. Despite not being in the key slot, the fan seemed "tight" from the impact gun attaching the nut on the outside of the pulley.
  11. Well, I did the Dyno swap and all was running well until the other day at a red light I noticed a horrible "clatter" coming from the front end. Checked the water pulley and it was nice and tight. Took the alternator off and disassembled and reassembled. That said, I noticed the fan on the alternator does not "lock" on the key on the shaft? It is actually below. Wondering if under tension it is vibrating/spinning and causing the rattle? Has anyone else had an issue with the fan not reaching the key on the shaft? The only other thing I can isolate is some "clatter" from the passenger (rt) top of the chain cover behind the fan? Timing tensioner possibly? That will not be a fun 2 days of pulling the front end apart. Don
  12. Well, turns out one of the brown/blue wires came off while reinstalling the plinth. Low and behold - it RUNS! I am guessing the pinion on the starter was "frozen" for none use over the 6 months the TR was on the rack. Now to get the carbs dialed in and first road test. Don
  13. Truly bizarre ... put it all back together and now when I turn the key, I do not even get power to the gauges when key is on position. I think I may order a new ignition switch. I tried to measure again to the white/red at the starter, and now there is absolutely nothing on crank. Previously when I had the switch out and terminal not hooked up I was getting 12.5v while cranking the key. I jumped a wire from the main lead on the starter to the white/red terminal on the starter and engine cranks over just fine. Can't figure out why I was getting the switch to seemingly work earlier and now that it's reassembled absolutely nothing, it's going crazy again, as I. Don
  14. Well, just managed to pull the starter. When grounded to the battery and I make contact with the white red terminal - pinion engages. When I connect the positive to the main terminal and jump a wire to the pinion, pinion engages and spins, to I think the starter is OK. Now I got to figure out how to get it back in - it was PITA coming out with the poly lock nut on the top. Took the bottom out and managed to put some torque on it enough to undo the bolt enough to get it drop. I have no idea how they got a wrench on it with the tranny/engine in the car. Any tips or suggestions? Figure I will get it bolted back and go from there. Don
  15. New ground wire from battery to the block/transmission mount with a new grounding strap from the battery to the body/chassis. Don
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.