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    Sunny Isle Florida
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  1. Sounds like I need get a bushing kit on order. Thanks folks! Don
  2. Thanks, pickle fork and extra jack for the tension of the spring ready then. Any idea about replacing the remains bushings and disassembly of the a-frames to replace everything.?
  3. So, there is only one local shop I'd trust to work on my'64 TR4, but they appear to be short handed and too busy with "full resto" projects to deal with my suspension bits. My ball joint joints boots are busted, and the front and rear suspension is in need of new poly bushings. I don't do a lot of suspension work and need to know - 1. To replace the ball joints, is there anything I need to do with the suspension not to kill myself when I unbolt the two bolts to swap them out? Seems pretty straight forward but always cringe with the "spring" in play. 2. For the rest of the
  4. In the interim, managed to get this rigged set up on and clear the bonnet. Short drive, and still trying to clean/burn the oil off from before, but seems to have helped with the weeping -
  5. So I've got a TR4 and was going to run an elbow out of the valve cover plug in the top/middle, then run a hose below the engine to pull a bit more of the pressure out and hopefully slow the weeping. Problem is, I can't find anyone who sells an elbow with a male thread of 1/2-20 (confirmed through my local ACE) to a barb. If anyone has done this, and know where they got the fitting, please advise. I have this style cover. Thanks.
  6. Valid point on the lack of pump running. Guess for the gallon that could be "cooled" post ignition off doesn't justify the end. I will go 12V hot ignition on and see how the temperatures hold. Live in Florida and running around doing errands with a lot of stop and goes can cause it to creep up. Many thanks. Looking forward to getting it on the road now that's cooler - 55 tomorrow morning - woohoo. Well at least for 3 hours and two days in a row. LOL. Don
  7. Thanks, I think I have the diagrams all worked out, but still trying to decide, as I am not running a manual switch, do I want to connect the fused 12V to a constant hot (battery) or to a 12v to ignition on only - ie, do I want the fan to continue to run when I turn the key off like most modern cars would do, or just have it run while the key is on. Not sure it matters much, just some drain on the battery I suppose if I choose option one, but it is updated with an alternator so I don't see charging be an issue. Don
  8. So, it's time to put in the new cooling system. Have the old Hayden that I took out a while back and trying to wire it up since I went with the skinny pulley kit. Looks like the previous owner had the 30 and 87 leads swapped on the relay? 30 (red) goes to the fan, while the 87 (orange) with inline fuse presumably went to hot. Terminal 65 goes to ground. There is a brown and green that comes off 87 (though the green is cut off) and the brown runs to one side of the probe. There is ground wire off the other side of the probe that connects with an eye off the ground to the fan. Presumably
  9. So I convinced myself the dizzy was also 180 out. Took it out, punched out the pin, and rotated the gear. It appears to be firing on TDC #1 with rotor at #1, and full lobe on IV#1 open at 110. Now to button it up and hope I didn't screw the timing too off to get it firing. Of course, that cross brace is up on deck next .... sigh ... -Don
  10. Started from scratch again. I think my cam gear was about 180 out. I now get the rotor on #1 on the non-compression stroke at TDC and the rotor at 4 on the compression stroke (assuming this is the TDC compression as the intake valve begins to open just before TDC on that revolution, which would suggest the dizzy is 180 out? Can I change the key w/o dropping the pan?
  11. Went to finish this project this morning, but for some odd ball reason I am getting both valves #1 fully closed, rotor on #1, but the piston is actually 180 (BDC)? If I take it to 180 (BDC) on the degree wheel, the rotor is actually pointing #3. The #1 intake valve appears to be fully opened on the cam at the 110 mark per my dial. So why in the world is the piston at BDC on the wheel when in fact it is TDC, yet my rotor and valves say something different? If I take it to 180 BDC, which in reality is TDC for the piston, not only is the rotor pointing at #3 on the cap, but the #1 EV begins
  12. Thanks. I didn't know if the conversion kit with the new sleeve would sandwich the oil plate tight enough against the crank sprocket, but from the sounds of it the answer is yes. The key cut was throwing me off as there is no key where it comes to a final rest. After "walking away" fro her yesterday afternoon, I believe I have it all dialed in this afternoon, at least to 110.75 - figure even at 111 that is close enough to get it all buttoned up. Not looking forward to reinstalling the cross brace - it was PITA on removal as only one bolt each side had a welded nut - the other two were nut,
  13. Actually converting to narrow belt, so the Moss kit has a spacer/sleeve that slides over the crank and into the seal. Still trying to figure out the oil shield as it has a key cut out, but clearly would not be on a key - assuming it goes up against the crank gear, but was concerned about it spinning and tearing apart if it is not stationary with the key slot and throw bits of metal flying.
  14. So, at TDC on the compression stroke (ie, the #4 intake valve just starts to descend open and both valves on #1 are not moving?), should my rotor be pointing towards #1 cylinder? For some reason, it points more to the #3 cylinder, which has me scratching my head that the distributor was installed 180' out. Is there an easy way to tell if my disturber is out 180 or my crank? Trying to make this is correct as I can get it since it's all torn apart. Don
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