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F1loco

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  • Location
    Sunny Isle Florida
  • Cars Owned:
    Too many to list ...

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  1. Valid point on the lack of pump running. Guess for the gallon that could be "cooled" post ignition off doesn't justify the end. I will go 12V hot ignition on and see how the temperatures hold. Live in Florida and running around doing errands with a lot of stop and goes can cause it to creep up. Many thanks. Looking forward to getting it on the road now that's cooler - 55 tomorrow morning - woohoo. Well at least for 3 hours and two days in a row. LOL. Don
  2. Thanks, I think I have the diagrams all worked out, but still trying to decide, as I am not running a manual switch, do I want to connect the fused 12V to a constant hot (battery) or to a 12v to ignition on only - ie, do I want the fan to continue to run when I turn the key off like most modern cars would do, or just have it run while the key is on. Not sure it matters much, just some drain on the battery I suppose if I choose option one, but it is updated with an alternator so I don't see charging be an issue. Don
  3. So, it's time to put in the new cooling system. Have the old Hayden that I took out a while back and trying to wire it up since I went with the skinny pulley kit. Looks like the previous owner had the 30 and 87 leads swapped on the relay? 30 (red) goes to the fan, while the 87 (orange) with inline fuse presumably went to hot. Terminal 65 goes to ground. There is a brown and green that comes off 87 (though the green is cut off) and the brown runs to one side of the probe. There is ground wire off the other side of the probe that connects with an eye off the ground to the fan. Presumably when the target temp is reached, the ground circuit is closed via the probe and hot lead (red) will reach the fan? Question is I am not sure why only the single 12V source? Most of the diagrams have an ignition on hot source and direct wire? If I am only using the fused orange to hot, do I want constant 12v, or only ignition on (which I believe is brown/green) hot? Looks like by the length it was probably wired up to the block of hot wires by the old control box (since removed now that I have a an alternator). Don't know if if leaving it on a 12v constant hot would be better as it would run after the key is off like a modern car, or if that will be a battery killer in the long run and should only wire it to ignition on 12v source? Finish line is in near. -Don
  4. So I convinced myself the dizzy was also 180 out. Took it out, punched out the pin, and rotated the gear. It appears to be firing on TDC #1 with rotor at #1, and full lobe on IV#1 open at 110. Now to button it up and hope I didn't screw the timing too off to get it firing. Of course, that cross brace is up on deck next .... sigh ... -Don
  5. Started from scratch again. I think my cam gear was about 180 out. I now get the rotor on #1 on the non-compression stroke at TDC and the rotor at 4 on the compression stroke (assuming this is the TDC compression as the intake valve begins to open just before TDC on that revolution, which would suggest the dizzy is 180 out? Can I change the key w/o dropping the pan?
  6. Went to finish this project this morning, but for some odd ball reason I am getting both valves #1 fully closed, rotor on #1, but the piston is actually 180 (BDC)? If I take it to 180 (BDC) on the degree wheel, the rotor is actually pointing #3. The #1 intake valve appears to be fully opened on the cam at the 110 mark per my dial. So why in the world is the piston at BDC on the wheel when in fact it is TDC, yet my rotor and valves say something different? If I take it to 180 BDC, which in reality is TDC for the piston, not only is the rotor pointing at #3 on the cap, but the #1 EV begins to open around 140, so at 180 on the wheel the EV is opening and not fully closed. Suggestions?
  7. Thanks. I didn't know if the conversion kit with the new sleeve would sandwich the oil plate tight enough against the crank sprocket, but from the sounds of it the answer is yes. The key cut was throwing me off as there is no key where it comes to a final rest. After "walking away" fro her yesterday afternoon, I believe I have it all dialed in this afternoon, at least to 110.75 - figure even at 111 that is close enough to get it all buttoned up. Not looking forward to reinstalling the cross brace - it was PITA on removal as only one bolt each side had a welded nut - the other two were nut, lock washer and bolt. Super tight to get a stubby box wrench on, not to mention the bolt at the top is super tricky with the tabs for the radiator support to get anything on the bolt to turn. This weekend's project but cooler weather coming to Florida. Time to get her back up and on the road. -Don
  8. Actually converting to narrow belt, so the Moss kit has a spacer/sleeve that slides over the crank and into the seal. Still trying to figure out the oil shield as it has a key cut out, but clearly would not be on a key - assuming it goes up against the crank gear, but was concerned about it spinning and tearing apart if it is not stationary with the key slot and throw bits of metal flying.
  9. So, at TDC on the compression stroke (ie, the #4 intake valve just starts to descend open and both valves on #1 are not moving?), should my rotor be pointing towards #1 cylinder? For some reason, it points more to the #3 cylinder, which has me scratching my head that the distributor was installed 180' out. Is there an easy way to tell if my disturber is out 180 or my crank? Trying to make this is correct as I can get it since it's all torn apart. Don
  10. UPDATE: From what I am reading the #4 intake just begins it's decent on the compression stroke on #1. That said, I think my dizzy may be 180 out but was working fine prior to deconstruction? If I turn my degree wheel from 180 to 0, the rotor is pointing just past #1 at TDC (0'). So, do I simply remove the distributor and rotate it 180? So dislike figuring out what previous owner's did incorrectly and correcting it. For my 110' target, best I can get is 80+ degrees, so something is not right with the TDC at 0' where it is at. Frustrating ... -Don
  11. I either have it dialed in perfectly or 180' out? At full #1 intake value open on the lobe tip, I am 109.75 - 110.5 at the split. Just don't know if I zero'd it out on the compression stroke? When I did it, and reinstalled everything, I was getting like 79 on the split. Then I put it at 180 and moved the degree wheel to zero and got the 110 split almost spot on. BUT still concerned I could be 180 out? Is there a sure fire way to determine TDC on the compression stroke? Where should my rotor be pointing to at TDC on the compression stroke? Looks to be at #3 lead? Just don't want to button it up to have to disassemble it all over again - lol. -Don
  12. Thanks. Think I sorted that out now but ... wondering if my new crank sprocket is on backwards? Moss Motor replacement, one side of is thicker than the other and I have the thinner side towards the engine? Seems to turn fine, but before I button it all up, want to be sure? Lastly, how in the world do I install the oil seal diversion plate? It's got a cut key BUT, there is no key showing on the rear woodruff key and confirmed the sprocket gear is firmly against the shims? Once I put the cover in, there is now way to be sure it is on the key furtherest away from the engine?? Urgh - so close to getting this done.
  13. Question, I have 5 longer bolts for the timing chain cover, 2 of which are the longest and go in the engine lift mount, 2 obviously go below the engine mount with nuts, but where do the others go? Two of them appear to have a small shoulder. I did notice on the bottom, I removed one of the bolts holding the plate to the engine and guessing that is where one goes? When I checked the depth of the remaining holes with a small screwdriver, it would appear the second hole counterclockwise from the lift seems to go all the way through - is this where it goes?
  14. Correct a 4 not a 4A though I believe the block probably is. So when you say the "lip side" goes to the crankshaft, you are referring to the "open" side of the seal towards the engine/crank, correct?
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