AlanG
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Posts posted by AlanG
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It will be valve to guide clearence
Either that or rings. Mine used what I thought was excessive oil consumption at around 500 miles per litre. Following new rings, bore de-glaze and new valve guides now about 2000 miles per litre after 7000 miles use. I always keep the oil at the full mark and do not experience any excessive oil consumption.
Alan.
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Turned out to be the commutator. The segment gaps were cleared. Shaft bushes were also badly worn so new ones were fitted. Now works well and much smoother than before.
Thanks for the responses.
Alan.
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I have removed and refitted J type in situ. No problem.
Alan.
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If smoke emanated from the battery's negative connection, you have a bad connection there and the starter motor won't be getting what it needs!
Disconnect battery terminal, thoroughly clean both parts, wipe some vaseline round the terminal, reassemble and make sure the clamp is really tight - TRs take a lot of amps!
Ian Cornish
Yes, did that with no change but stopped the smoking.
Alan.
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Went for a drive this morning and everything fine until trying to restart, the starter motor engages but seems to lock without turning the engine over. Thumping the SM frees it up and then it started but on restarting again would not turn the engine over. Pressing solenoid button only resorts with more of the same. Did notice that the negative battery terminal smoked. This did happen before about a month ago but after fiddling with the solenoid wiring had been ok until today. With the SM removed pinion looks and works ok, commutator and brushes look fine. I suspect a fault with the SM. Any advice appreciated.
Alan.
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FWIW the pin used for fixing the 3rd/4th selector rod end is a grooved pin. Not sure if it was tapered or not.
Alan.
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I thought the adjustable push rod was fitted to 4A's. Certainly the PB shows it.
Alan.
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The other side came apart so job done.
Thanks Roger.
Alan.
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Just trying to split the upper splined steering column joint so I can position the self cancelling clip correctly but it's solid. Any tips please?
Alan.
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Good plan Simon. Pegs ordered.
Alan.
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Do the seven rear "lift the dot" pegs go through the outer hood material then the retaining bar and then the hood material again or just through the outer hood material and then the retaining bar? Roger Williams book shows through all three but I have two old hoods, one through all three, one through only two. Going through all three does make the peg fixing length a bit marginal.
Alan.
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Gearbox crane. Brilliant bit of kit.
Alan.
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Just checked spare I have but hole is badly worn. Parts book illustration shows hole to be the same size as the drop link thread that goes through it which is 3/8" UNF.
Alan.
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Friend of mine who is a TRR member has a serious oil leak on his TR7. He's not mechanical minded and has asked me to ask on here if there is any particular area on the TR7 engine that maybe the source of the leak.
Thanks
Alan.
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Hi John,
Just finished building the crane and have removed and refitted my gearbox with ease. I fitted the 3" alignment dowel to begin with but found this made it difficult to get the clutch lever far enough forwards to clear the floor so removed it. Then with the clutch lever clear I screwed the dowel through the bellhousing and with the necessary wiggling the gearbox was in.
Great bit of kit.
Thanks very much.
Alan.
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Looks tight but doable.
Alan spot on, did you use 6mm like Niall to get movement of the seat?.
Will get flat bar Friday. Probably won't cut the front corner off so severely but I understand this was to get the seat aligned to steering wheel.
Not as thick as 6mm. Probably more like 4mm. The studs were bolts with the heads removed.
Alan.
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I made my own using flat plate bolted to the original holes in the floor and with welded in studs to match the seat runners. Bit of a faff getting all the holes to align but not difficult. Works a treat.
Alan.
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Just started building gearbox crane in anticipation of refitting original gearbox now with J type o/d.
Alan.
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Blown manifold gasket?
Alan.
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They will send samples if requested.
Alan.
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Hope you have more luck than I had. All I got was "we've sold loads of these and never had a problem reported."
Think they're closed until Tuesday.
Alan.
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Finishing off fitting J type O/D to my 4A gearbox.
Alan
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I have just done the selector shaft seals and they are still not quite big enough for the depth of the recess in my cover, (3.34mm depth) I have added a nylon backup ring to the outside of the seal, they come from the same company as the quadrings, they are part number AE112.
Now the retaining plate really holds the seals tight.
John
Do I fit
1. Q seal
2. Q seal + back up ring
3. Standard O ring
4. Standard O ring + back up ring
???
Alan.
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Hi Alan,
I would go for the 'roll' pin. If they can hold a clutch fork then I'm sure they can hold a selector fork.
Hi Pete,
the outer two rods have the wedgelok screws but the central rod has a pin.
Roger
Hi Roger,
I was going to use a groove pin in the end but they are a bit scarce and none of the suppliers I could find would do less than a qty. 100. I tried a local engineering suppliers and they suggested a roll pin and they agreed with you that a roll pin would be more than strong enough. So I have fitted one. It was a tight fit and looks fine.
Thanks everyone for the advice.
Alan.
TR7 Oil Pump Seal
in TR7/8 Forum
Posted
Friend of mine is trying to source the square section o ring seal that is between the oil pump and engine. He tried the usual suspects who only have the standard o section seals. He has tried these but leak still persists. Anyone know where he might get one?
Cheers
Alan.