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Everything posted by AlanG

  1. I got a 4A one from Revingtons. Alan.
  2. Worth checking the diff. Best done over a pit with the car in gear with someone to rock the car back and forth while you are underneath. Alan.
  3. Seal. Important so that air is only drawn through the matrix and diverted to foot and dash vents as required. I used industrial type window/draught seal, more substantial than the DIY type and will hopefully last longer. My heater and demist work well despite the poor reputation of 4A heaters. Alan.
  4. I've been trying to get in touch with Smartscreen to buy one of their intermittent wipe units. There is no reply to email or reorded telephone message. Anyone know if they're still in business or maybe on holiday? Alan.
  5. I've got MX5 seats so I made a loop in the end of the tonneau strap and slip it over the hand brake lever. Works well keeping the flapping under control. Alan.
  6. I chatted to Mike and Paddy not so much about the TR5 but the Fireball windscreen sticker. Not Fireball XL5 and captain Steve Zodiac but Fireball racing dinghies which Mike and myself used to sail in the 70's. Mike in Switzerland me at Welton Waters. That sticker was amazing !!!!!!!!! Alan.
  7. Thanks Roger, that's what I said Alan
  8. Camshaft sprocket bolt? Oil thrower is fitted concave (dished) face facing forward allowing oil to be thrown off convex rear face onto chain. Alan.
  9. I fitted a shortened o/d Stag ( I think ) gearstick with the switch in the top and no visible wires. This works very well and is ergonomically correct. Alan.
  10. After changing all the usual suspects on my 4A it turned out to be the diff. After rocking forwards and backwards in gear over a pit it was obvious knocking was from diff. Just generally worn. Hopefully may be u/j's in your case. Alan.
  11. Pete Drugan, Classic Gearboxes - Blackburn.(Truck Transmissions Ltd.) Alan.
  12. How would the ongoing quality of the gold parts be ensured. Regular auditing of the manufacturers industry standards and procedures would be the normal method but then would the suppliers do this and do the manufacturers work to any laid down procedures, particularly overseas manufacturers. It would certainly have significant cost implications. I am not knocking this initiative and think it would be of definite benefit to us but wonder if the maintenance of it would be cost effective. Alan.
  13. Hi Rob, As I'm going through he same exercise could you expand on the "probably" please. Alan.
  14. Thanks for the replies. Window up tie is loose and rattles. Window down tie tightens up and no rattles. Old age I guess. Anyway plastic wire tie has fixed it. Alan.
  15. What, apart from rattling, is the function of the door window tie rod, page 122, item 88, in the Moss catalogue? Alan.
  16. Just taken mine for rebuild to Pete Drugen at Truck Transmissions at Blackburn. He is recommended by forum members. Mine was knocking accelerating/decelerating. Pete reckons it's showing signs of excessive backlash, possibly worn bearings maybe the same problem as yours. Due back end of next week. Alan.
  17. If you are reasonably mechanically minded stripping and rebuilding the gearbox is not difficult. Useful video on U-tube of guy doing the same and various other links on internet. No special tools just a couple of pullers made out of angle iron and threaded rod. Set of brass or copper drifts also useful. Speaking from experience and gearbox still working well so far! Alan.
  18. I have similar sounding clunk. Having renewed all the usual culprits I to am suspecting the diff. I have just spoken to Pete Drugen who advises diffs can clunk if they have excess backlash. Before removing he suggests disconnecting the propshaft and try rotating the diff drive flange. There should only be a few thou of movement. Any more is excessive. I shall do this before getting it rebuilt. Alan.
  19. Hi Philip, Just done the exactly the same conversion on my 4A. O/D was for a saloon. Change of speedo gear and upped the pressure to TR spec. No o/d on 2nd but I don't miss that. Switch on gearstick I much prefer. The J type works very well on a 4A. Alan.
  20. So much easier access wise and I also remove the radiator. Why risk it damaging it. Alan.
  21. Cross tube needs to come off. If you take the weight with a jack in the centre of the front x member this allows the chassis flex making the removal and refitting a lot easier. Alan.
  22. Thanks for the comments. Looks like the CL01 is the one. Now just have to negotiate a discount ​. Alan.
  23. Due to advancing years (car and owner) I'm thinking of buying a CL Auto's CL01 car lift. Just wondered if anybody has experience of these lifts? Alan.
  24. Back in the 70's I was an inspector in the Standards Room at Hawker Siddeley. We controlled all the metrology on site with various standards and measuring machines. Must have been millions of £'s worth in todays money. Often wander what happened to it all. Probably sold as scrap. Alan.
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