AlanG
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Posts posted by AlanG
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I got the bracket kit from the TRShop. Been on for some five years now with no problems.
Alan.
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On 1/26/2019 at 4:59 AM, kiwi-jim said:
tuHi Everyone
Happy new year, is there any "home hack" you can do to the speedo to get it more accurate. currently reads 80 mph when you are doing 60 mph on the gps, Need it reading more accurately for the new registration compliance. Or do I just have to get it recalibrated?
cheers jim
My 4A had the same problem. Had it serviced/recalibrated by JDO Instruments. Had to take a number of measurements for calibration. Detail is on their website. Speedo is now reading spot on against sat nav.
Alan.
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Try Revington. I got one there a few years ago.
Alan.
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I used a sand bag between the diff and trolley jack. Worked fine.
Alan.
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There is normally a discount for collection of orders at the NEC.
Alan.
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Looks like the thread pitch is not the same. This would cause the bulb to tighten the further it was screwed in.
Alan.
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10 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi Folks,
the diff is back in. The SuperPro diff mounts are fitted. everything is buttoned down.
On the test drive the clonk of last week has reduced a good amount but there is something still there.
I'll take it for a long run when the weather dries out a little and see what is going on.
Hmmmm
Roger
H Roger,
Did the diff rebuilder comment on what if anything as wrong with your diff?
Alan.
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Have a word with your paint supplier. Mine had some "under the counter stuff". Don't know what it was but it worked a treat. And I'm still standing
.Alan.
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I removed and replaced the J type on my 4A without removing the GB with no problem but would imagine, as Pete says, if it's a A type putting it back would be very difficult.
Alan.
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The follower could have come part way out and now be angled over preventing it dropping down into position. Try using a magnet to pull it up and centralising it.
Alan.
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Hi Roger,
Couple of years ago I had the same clonking. After replacing the most of the rear transmission and suspension with no improvement I then put the car over a friends pit and with someone rocking the car back and forth with my ear close to the diff it was obvious it was backlash in the diff. I had the diff rebuilt. Now the clonking has returned. There is something like 5/10mm radial ( bit difficult to measure ) play of the prop shaft flange. Why? Maybe the bearings were not fully seated and have now bedded in? A fellow club member has just rebuilt his TR5 diff successfully so with his help I will rebuild it myself this winter. This does not help you but I think a lot of parts are often needlessly replaced before the diff is confirmed as being the culprit.
Alan.
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Blocked jet?
Alan.
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I remember now, I opened up the hole in the first washer to go over the shoulder of the pin then fitted a standard washer. Well it was a few years ago and my memory doesn't improve with age. Probably committed some cardinal sin but as I didn't remember doing it I didn't have any worries about it.
Alan ( I think
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Had a similar problem when I changed the rubber cones. I doubled up the washers.
Alan.
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Rain-X and never drive below 40mph
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Great minds think alike.
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I shorten the spring to make it fit. Just enough so it's not coil bound when fully compressed. Also use a plastic tie wrap around G/L ball to compress spring and plunger, carefully position G/L in position and apply sharp tap to top of G/L. Other methods may apply
but it works for me.Alan.
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I have bought a TR crankshaft. Can anybody tell me how to identify whether it's from a TR2, 3 or 4? Also what changes were made during it's production?
Thanks
Alan.
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Thanks for that Roger. I will make sure that area is specifically looked at. I think we have similar pasts. I was in Airworthiness at BAE. Flight incident investigations on Hawks world wide. ( we never mentioned the word crash). Fatique cracking and other defects were frequently found.
Alan.
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Thanks for that Mick. Just hope it's crack free now.
Alan.
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Just taken a bit of a punt on a cheap crankshaft. Mains will have to be reground to - .040". I see that these are available from Revingtons. Just wondered how detrimental - .040" might be? Is this common practice going this much undersize these days? I will of course have it NDT'd before doing anything.
Alan.
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The vent seals I have tried from the usual suppliers are always to big and don't allow the vent lid to sit flush. I use the 5mm dia. version of the Woolies R10 (page 19) rubber extrusion. This is smaller than the illustrated R10 and I don't think is listed in their catalogue. Just need to ring them.
Alan.
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I've had very good service from OD Spares with my o/d's. They bench tested a TR6 J type and converted an unused J type off a Triumph saloon to TR4A use. Guess you are pretty safe with whoever you use.
Alan.
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Don't think so. But it's all in pictures so easy enough to use.
Alan.
Head Gasket failure?
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
At the TRGB engine rebuild seminar anything between .003"/.010" was stated as being satisfactory. Not as critical as was commonly believed.
Alan.