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Everything posted by AlanG

  1. AlanG

    TR4 Rebuild

    Can't agree with that . From experience it works very well with solid 2k colour and can't see why it wouldn't work with clear coat. Here's one I prepared earlier
  2. AlanG

    TR4 Rebuild

    If you're going to flat out the orange peel suggest you apply a very light guide coat first. Alan.
  3. I got one from London TR Shop. Fitted no problem. Alan.
  4. I had similar. When they got dried out the coating curled up and rubbed on the disc's resulting in squeaking noise. Not recommended. Alan.
  5. TR Parts Catalogue shows both but no fitted from info. Alan.
  6. Snap, well nearly. Alan.
  7. At the TRGB engine rebuild seminar anything between .003"/.010" was stated as being satisfactory. Not as critical as was commonly believed. Alan.
  8. I got the bracket kit from the TRShop. Been on for some five years now with no problems. Alan.
  9. My 4A had the same problem. Had it serviced/recalibrated by JDO Instruments. Had to take a number of measurements for calibration. Detail is on their website. Speedo is now reading spot on against sat nav. Alan.
  10. Try Revington. I got one there a few years ago. Alan.
  11. I used a sand bag between the diff and trolley jack. Worked fine. Alan.
  12. There is normally a discount for collection of orders at the NEC. Alan.
  13. Looks like the thread pitch is not the same. This would cause the bulb to tighten the further it was screwed in. Alan.
  14. H Roger, Did the diff rebuilder comment on what if anything as wrong with your diff? Alan.
  15. Have a word with your paint supplier. Mine had some "under the counter stuff". Don't know what it was but it worked a treat. And I'm still standing . Alan.
  16. I removed and replaced the J type on my 4A without removing the GB with no problem but would imagine, as Pete says, if it's a A type putting it back would be very difficult. Alan.
  17. The follower could have come part way out and now be angled over preventing it dropping down into position. Try using a magnet to pull it up and centralising it. Alan.
  18. Hi Roger, Couple of years ago I had the same clonking. After replacing the most of the rear transmission and suspension with no improvement I then put the car over a friends pit and with someone rocking the car back and forth with my ear close to the diff it was obvious it was backlash in the diff. I had the diff rebuilt. Now the clonking has returned. There is something like 5/10mm radial ( bit difficult to measure ) play of the prop shaft flange. Why? Maybe the bearings were not fully seated and have now bedded in? A fellow club member has just rebuilt his TR5 diff successfully so with his
  19. I remember now, I opened up the hole in the first washer to go over the shoulder of the pin then fitted a standard washer. Well it was a few years ago and my memory doesn't improve with age. Probably committed some cardinal sin but as I didn't remember doing it I didn't have any worries about it. Alan ( I think )
  20. Had a similar problem when I changed the rubber cones. I doubled up the washers. Alan.
  21. I shorten the spring to make it fit. Just enough so it's not coil bound when fully compressed. Also use a plastic tie wrap around G/L ball to compress spring and plunger, carefully position G/L in position and apply sharp tap to top of G/L. Other methods may apply but it works for me. Alan.
  22. I have bought a TR crankshaft. Can anybody tell me how to identify whether it's from a TR2, 3 or 4? Also what changes were made during it's production? Thanks Alan.
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