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Everything posted by NCS_TR3A

  1. Thanks Tom, I may have to revisit the teflon option. I have 50 of those washers as well :). In fairness it was only one carb than leaked and it wasn't dripping, I could just feel the wetness by touch. I certainly had not appreciated there was a thickness to the copper washer (I've no idea the thickness of the ones in mine). Holes on the jet are chamfered and was straightforward to do. I'd never thought of fuel leaking through the yoke at the bottom of the jet. I'm not sure if mine have screws holding them in, from memory they looked like rounded rivet heads (not sure of the right termi
  2. I've actually ordered some Viton washers after reading others have used them. Ordered 50 of them for around £4.50 so I'll see how I get on myself. My concern would be around the friction and if the jet would return fully up when the choke goes back in. Presently have cork washers fitted and working fine. I'm some time off trialling as I have the gearbox out at present and I'm thinking the engine is out next to work on the rear Crank seal and general bottom end check (kind of obvious to do if the crank has to come off). Neil
  3. When I rebuilt I found this Website very useful - https://thosbryant.wordpress.com/2014/03/01/su-carburetor-rebuild-h-4/ I have HS6 carbs as well but its the same principle as in the link. I did get some PTFE seals (Teflon) but I found the leaked slightly. I haven't tried Viton and may give that a go at some point but the cork is working for me at present. Neil
  4. Oh, probably a daft question. There are two copper spacers that sit on the jet next to each cork seal, have you got these the right way around. Unlikely to be it but would certainly explain a leak Neil
  5. I was thinking that taking the copper washer from the top may give you enough to tighten. The carb on the left looks like the bottom nut is on further than mine (I use the rubber O seal like you have on mine and they dont go so tight). When I've had issues it's mainly the seals on the jet that leak.
  6. Or if could suggest that the internal parts are longer than they should be which makes the nut go tight before the cork is squashed. I'm trying to think how that could be. It might be worth taking everything out again and checking it's all in the right order. But I'm struggling to explain why this would lead to this.
  7. Hi, from my experience that doesnt sound right. That metal ring that holds the cork washer should be tight. Can you feel petrol coming from here or is it just at the bottom of the jet and dripping? Have you soaked the two cork washers that fit on the jet saft in oil prior to fitting? I think they are meant to be soaked in oil for 24hrs before fitting. There is some discussion on the net about changing these cork seals for PTFE seals. I tried that and they leaked slightly so went back to Cork. I have swapped the big cork washer at the bottom to a modern rubber one but personally I never had muc
  8. Hi John, Interesting. I've got lift the dot and doesn't cause me an issue, but now you have written this I can see the merits of tenax in this position. One thing the remember is to fit the hood and cover for periods to stop them shrinking. They can be a pig to fit if they have not been on for a while. I'm sure a little heat would help but I've always just about managed. Neil
  9. Hi Ralf, Thanks for the warning. I've read quite a lot over the last few days. I've taken the taper pin out on the clutch fork to allow me to change the front oil seal and the release bearing. I'm struggling a little with the selector shaft. The heads of the tapered pins ar 5/16. There are no holes in mine and therefore no wires. How have people loosened these, I get that a brake spanner fits but I don't physically have room to get the spanner in. Is there something I'm missing? Is there anything I can do to reduce the chance of the pin snapping? I can see the risk I just haven't rea
  10. In the process of cleaning it up its pretty obvious that oil is coming out the selector shafts and so I took the top off which allowed me to take the photo of the overdrive plate. I read the number as 22/1374/009950. I'm now reading the manual to see what seals there are on the select shafts. Having fun in lockdown Neil
  11. I'm obviously going to be out on my own with this one but I use 30psi all round and get a good wear pattern. If I'm honest I went up to 30psi thinking steering would be a bit lighter. I don't drive it that hard so cannot say if its really changed handling as such. Neil
  12. OK after taking the gearbox off I've now removed the flywheel and this is the picture - Clearly the seal is leaking. Actually a little surprised to see oil coming from where the two scroll half's join. Potentially how sealant used when fitting them. I now need to think how I'm going to get the engine out. I do have an RSJ across the roof and block and tackle but it would need the car to move rather than the engine and hoist moving around. Not that easy to push etc so will think about it before committing to a method. Neil
  13. Hi, I've taken these photos - Gearbox is TS55455 Date stamp? Is 22 F - 59/. Is that week 22 in 59? And unfortunately the plate on the overdrive is below the gear shift and I cannot read it, or ami looking in the wrong place? Just starting to clean it up and make some decisions on which seals ans gaskets to change.
  14. OK, nothing major here really. Having finished changing the diff seal and gasket and checking out the prop shaft (ended up changing both UJs as one felt like it was failing) I've moved on to the gearbox mount which has collapsed. Decided to take the tunnel out to do this and ended up. With the gearbox out. Feel the engine is coming out next to be honest as I want to change engine mounts and front crank seal (and if brave enough the rear Crank seal). The gear box has a good smear of oil pretty much every where. Its clear I've had a leak from the rocker cover cork seal. The gearbox wo
  15. Good work, is this snorkel a push fit, never taken it out. Do these things block up or not really an issue when fitted? Neil
  16. Very, very nice. I do like those. Neil
  17. Mick, understand we're you are coming from, and have had a fair few get me home episodes in my life but only one I the TR which was a wiring issue. Whilst there is always a solution to be found on the hop the more prepared you are the easier it is. But get the message. Thanks for the photo of the electric jack, doe look like it goes low and given Robs confirmation it does sound like a good solution if you have the space in the wheel compartment, or boot. Neil
  18. Thanks Rob. I might well consider this myself then. Neil
  19. I know this may sound obvious to the members on here but remember you need a jack that can fit when you have a flat tyre (that's the main reason you will be using outside of your garage). These cars are low, and with a flat tyre they are really low. I use (or have) a scissor Jack in the tyre compartment for this reason. I'm not convinced the electric ones would go low enough but have not checked. In the garage a low entry trolley jack from SGS engineering covers the job. Although I've just treated myself to a car scissor lift which is saving my back from getting up and down. 50th pr
  20. If you can weld, weld a stud to the plug. Place a socket over the stud that's bigger than core plug diameter and then a washer on top of the socket and with a spanner tighten a nut on this and it should pull the core plug out. I wouldn't expect it would take much to pull out under these conditions. My only consern would be setting oil on fire so an electric welder is better than gas but still be careful. If the pug is thick you may be able to drill and tap it and do the same. Neil
  21. I cannot remember it being a problem, but I think there was two of us present then as well. Me and my dad so probably had the hand to lift, push and rotate as it went back in. Certainly there are several jobs we're thts extra pair of hands make it far easier. Can certainly relate to hands and feet being used on some jobs.
  22. They are nice. Haven't seen those before. Neil
  23. Yes, most my experience is on minis. Bare shell rebuilds, ended up with a metro turbo in having to cut bulkhead and reweld to get the turbo in. Changed the brakes along with it, and changed the diff to get it right for smaller road wheels. Felt fast but not in reality by modern standards. I have had the gearbox out in the TR, I was probably 15 years younger when I did it. But I'm only 50 now and I have a helpful 22 year old who would be involved so I don't see it as a huge job to get the gearbox of on one these. Neil
  24. Roger, that's really interesting and I might give that a go with a view that if it doesn't work I can plan to take the engine out. The leak is really small and whilst I'd kind of like to have the experience of delving into the bottom end of an engine it kind of feels I have more to lose than gain. Neil
  25. Must admit whilst I've looked before I wasn't aware of the core plug behind the camshaft or the oil gallary plug. Can these be fixed with the engine in if these are part of the problem Neil
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