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TopazMan

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  1. Thanks everyone (for Roger - my name is Denis. Why "Topazman"? Because I've got a very rare Topaz TR6 and a Topaz Stag. What other name could I use?!). The consensus seems to be that the extra switch was fitted to achieve overdrive in 2nd, but succeeded in providing it in all gears. the car is definitely a UK-spec, not an ex-US example, but the extra switch is fitted on the offside near the gearstick, so it may well be in the seatbelt module hole, thus giving overdrive to all gears. I've put it all back now, with overdrive just in 3rd and 4th. My experience blows out all the doom-mongers who said reversing with overdrive would destroy the overdrive and gearbox!
  2. I have a late British TR6 Pi (CR series) with J-type overdrive. I discovered that the overdrive works in all gears, incl reverse, and have reversed in ignorance many times over 19 years with the overdrive left on, but without causing damage. To get to the bottom of this, I removed the gearbox tunnel and discovered that one of the spade connectors on the top switch (3rd & 4th gear enabling) had come off. Testing then showed that neither that switch nor the reversing light switch was working, so I've replaced both and they now work fine. The mystery is that my J-type, which should only have two switches actually has three - all close to the gearstick end of the gearbox top cover, reversing light on nearside, 3rd/4th gear on top and the extra one on the offside. Testing shows that the extra switch enables overdrive in all gears, incl reverse, but not in neutral. Does anyone have a similar set-up. or know why this extra switch is there? The three switches are connected in series, so I have pulled the spades off the extra switch, wrapped them in insulating tape and intend to leave the rest of the wiring as is. This way, the reversing lights work and the overdrive only works in 3rd and 4th gears. The irony is that of the three original switches, the extra one is the only one that works! Advice please?
  3. Hi, anyone able to advise me about changing my TR6 to historic tax class please? The car was built on 30 December 1974 (I have the Heritage Certificate), but not registered until 29 October 1975. It is currently taxed until May 2015. I've phoned DVLA for advice twice. First a lady told me I can send in the V5C now to have the tax class changed to historic, and explained that I will get an automatic refund of unused months. She didn't mention a V10, nor proof of build date, so I called again and this time a man told me I can't apply at present. He wouldn't say when my car would become eligible for historic class and although he acknowledged that the current rule is "vehicles manufactured before 1 January 1974", he kept quoting my registration date as the one that mattered. He couldn't find teh date of manufacture on DVLA's records, and kept dodging my question about sending proof. He ended by saying ring back towards the end of March to find out if there would be any change in the rule. All very vague and conflicting and I can't find any specific advice on-line at DVLA. I think I can apply for the change but not until after 25 March 2015. I think if I submit the V5C (log book) with section 7 completed to apply for a change to historic class and send a copy of the Heritage Certificate, I should then receive a refund of tax paid for April and May. I don't think I need a V10, but will send one anyway. I don't think they need the MOT or insurance certificate (they can check on-line), but will send copies anyway. Anyone able to confirm or offer alternative advice please?
  4. I can answer my own question......the connector has come off, without breaking it - good old WD40!
  5. Hi, trying to remove my n/w Lucas alternator from my (late CR) TR6. How do you disconnect the cables at the back? There are three cables which go into what appears to be a multi connector. Does it just pull out (it won't come away, but I don't want to break it by forcing it)? I can't see any other way to remove the cables, and the manuals (Haynes and Triumph Repair Manual) just say "remove the cables" with no advice or pictures to show how. Also, any advice on whether to have the alternator reconditioned or find a replacement?
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