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Everything posted by Superaquarama

  1. Was there a different ratio for US cars ?
  2. Surely not ? Or have you saved me from making the same mistake ?
  3. A few years ago I bought a '63 Corvette in N Carolina. We went over for a wedding and saw it for sale, drove it, etc. so at least I knew it existed. Contacted a firm called Auto Driveaway, they said to get the money to them and they would only hand it over upon collecting the car (by this time we were in California). So I did the transfer and this guy and his wife paid for the Vette and drove it I believe to their home. The shipping and insurance to Liverpool were arranged for about $800 (this was a few years ago !), the car was driven to the docks and I drove it home from Liverpool once it arrived. It all went very smoothly without any hitches, the big plus point being that no money changed hands until the car was picked up. I suppose you could probably arrange for an inspection of the car before starting the process. And yes, that TR4 looks excellent value ! Auto Driveaway, incidentally, is one of the firms that do free trips across America if you deliver a car for them. They're a well established firm 60 years +. Just looked at the website and see that there's a Sienna (whatever that is) needs to go from Cleaveland (sic) to San Diego, presumably to be driven by a lady with plenty of clevage (sic) !
  4. Ok, Stuart - thanks for that info and all understood. Have a good weekend, Anthony
  5. Now that, Rob, is an absolutely brilliant reply ! Many thanks indeed for your trouble, and to you as well, Stuart and Mike. So it looks as though the Surrey will be worth a try. I've got a fully open car as well anyway, so plenty of scope for wind in the hair with that. Stuart, do you know if the Moss backlight is in fact a Honeybourne and, if not, what are the pros and cons ? Honeybourne appear to offer a 'drop on' product, whereas Moss seem to prefer you to buy hundreds of little bits and assemble it all.
  6. Aaaagh ! Just typed out a reply then went to look at Geko's thumbnail pic, closed it and reply had vanished ! So many thanks, everyone, for the further replies. Those seats look nice, Geko, and thanks Mike for the tip about reclining them for the tonneau - never thought of that ! So with what Pete says as well it looks as though MX5 sets are a no brainer - will keep an eye open. I can still defer the Surrey v hood question, but have yet to hear as to the pros and cons from anyone who's had both. Anthony
  7. Just spoke to Rob at TRGB. Their prices for re-covering are: H frame (later larger type) £95 Crash pads £39 ea Switch plinth £39 Dash top £75 So I'll probably go with those.
  8. Thanks, Andreas. Seems as though the MX5 seats are more comfortable as well as being a bit safer due to the headrests. And thanks as well, LJ., that's pretty much the same as I would be doing. And bear in ind that most TRs aren't used much in winter anyway. But still would like to hear the pros and cons from those who've used the 4A with both Surrey and soft tops.
  9. With the car away for painting with a mate (so it'll be gone a few weeks, then !) I was going to attend to the seats, a new set of vinyl seat covers and trim panels having come with the car. But then I thought: if I'm going the Surrey top route, perhaps I should fit MX5 seats, the type with separate headrests. If they come in leather, they could be re-coloured to match the other blue trim. I think if I don't have a surrey, then I'd use the original seats so that a tonneau could be used and the line of the car not spoilt. Am I right in thinking that the general view is that MX5 seats are a good idea ? Keeping the originals with the car, of course. I think Surreys look great, but in actual use and in varied British weather, is the car more pleasant with one, or with a hood & tonneau ? I wasn't thinking of spending 3 grand on an original, rather a Honeybourne or Moss setup (are these one and the same, by the way ?) for a fraction of the cost, and there's the saving of not needing a new hood and tonneau. What do members who've had both surrey and soft tops think ? I expect the car will be used mostly locally (country area), but with the occassional 80 mph motorway bash as well.
  10. Ok, great ! I'll send you a message with my address etc. Thanks, Anthony
  11. Yep, those are the exact ones, Rob - many thanks for the info. However, due to i) the cost of postage of said bulbs and ii) the probable increasing difficulty of sourcing these bulbs, I think I may well take up your offer, Bob, so that in future I can just use the standard bulbs. So if it's not too much trouble.......? On the other hand maybe you should keep them. One day you might be selling the car and someone may say "Jeez, no, you've got the wrong lenses - I'm walking away !"
  12. Great, thanks for the encouraging replies, everyone - not as much of a problemas I'd expected. I'll check which type of frame I've got (I think it's a very early 4A) and investigate further. Anthony
  13. Hi Bob, Well, I have to confess now that these are on a Series One Land Rover, although not a complete intruder here as I do have a TR4A ! The Landie, a 1955, never had any flashers originally so, many years ago when I had a TR2, I fitted some TR2 twin filament bulbholders rather than add separate amber flashers, in order to keep the original look. The later beehive lenses will of course fit but then they're not original either, so it looks as though I'll have to get some deeper bulbholders if I cannot get the smaller bulbs. Anthony
  14. Looking at the H frame properly for the first time as the resto progresses, I can see that it's been re-covered in the past. Is it possible to re-cover these, maybe with some vinyl and a heat gun ? Or better still, does anyone make new covers ? Thanks, Anthony
  15. Right, thanks everyone for solving the question, and for the fitting tip, Rodbr. Looks as though I have the wrong bulb holders, so will have to get the deeper type if I can't find the small bulbs.
  16. My sidelights have the short twin filament bulbs, same size as number plate bulbs. The standard twin filament bulb fits into the holder but then the lens won't fit on as it fouls the bulb, these being the shallower lenses as opposed to the deeper TR4 type. In the Mossalogue they're listed as GLB380 for the TR2 & 3, but then the longer TR4A bulbs have the same designation too. So either they can't both be the same, or they are the same and I have the wrong bulb holders. Cannot seem to find these shorter bulbs locally. Can anyone clarify ? Thanks, Anthony
  17. Thanks, Graeme and Stuart - yes, I think all these bumpers are made by the same firm in Vietnam. They even do some exotic ones for such as the big 60s Merc coupes, which are otherwise unbelievably expensive.
  18. Thanks, Stuart - that's encouraging anyway !
  19. I think you are probably right Stuart, I put it up against the very original bumper and it is rather straighter Mmm.......does anyone know if this "straightness" applies to those stainless bumpers ? I was thinking of getting a pair of these from the TR Shop.
  20. I have a couple of spare rear light bodies for rechroming, that a chromer wants to buy. A few bits of light pitting, a scratch or two; no idea what they're worth - anyone seen 'em at Malvern ? Thanks, Anthony
  21. On that i disagree sorry why do most moderns not have an overdrive fitted? Cost, presumably. But give me an overdrive over a 5 speed any day, particularly on a TR. I'm sure too that a 5 speed will devalue a TR, as Alec says. Although it may not do so on something that never had an o/d option, such as a Consul Capri or Corvette.
  22. Has anyone sold or know of someone paying 30k for a 4a its seems very strong money ! Nick Not quite, but Brightwells for example have had a couple sell in the high twenties, so £30k is probably only a matter of time................ But I agree that the project's viable up to around £2k for a DIY resto. Hagerty's valuation gives £32k for a concours, which seems reasonable, but some of their other values seem a bit erratic, e.g. 'fair' E Type roadster £97k, ditto Series One Landie £12k, yet Consul Capri much too low @ £9k for concours. http://www.hagertyinsurance.co.uk/classiccarvalue?nst=0&gclid=CJy2j-m9lcgCFUHnwgodRswMpA
  23. just after starting if the battery has run down a lot, though even then if the old alternator never reached 30 amps charge Mmm, not sure I agree Rob. If for example you've been churning away on the starter for 30 secs whilst the fuel pumps through, I'd imagine the charge rate would be at or near max initially until it settles down. Still, end-stopping the ammeter for a short time may not matter - don't really know. Did a conversion on a 3.4 Jaguar, albeit with a 75A alternator (off a Transit as we needed to mount the p/steering pump on the back), and this was certainly end-stopping the 20A ammeter for a while after start-up until we shunted it with a paperclip. A very worthwhile conversion anyway, keeps the battery at a higher level of charge. A night stop at a garage or service area was always a bit fraught in case the car wouldn't restart, or if left standing for 2 or 3 weeks the battery won't be flat !
  24. keep the ammeter as is and get the 45 amp Alt if it is a good price Don't you need to shunt the ammeter, Roger ? Would have thought the higher output would be end-stopping it a lot of the time. Regards, Anthony
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