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Superaquarama

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Posts posted by Superaquarama

  1. Once had loss of power with a Series One L/Rover. Checked everything - mixture, timing, compressions, all fine, but she could hardly drag herself along.

     

    Then one day in the rain noticed the rear drums steaming ! Turned out it was just old brake hoses, they'd let the fluid out to the whell cylinders but not back again, so the brakes were just sticking on.

  2. Belated thanks, Peter, useful to know it's possible with rhd cars. Back in the early '70s a colleague ran a supercharged Cortina GT Mk 1, went like the clappers and probably faster than a Lotus Cortina, but he blew it up after a few months, ended up dropping in a crossflow engine and selling the supercharger. It was also very thirsty but that was due to how he drove it, probably.

  3. Having started this post and forgotten about it, I can offer a bit of an update now.

     

    The panels were given a preliminary fitting, which is when I noticed the problem, then they were all taken off for undercoating, polyester stopper, etc. On refitting the panels for a final trial before removing them for painting, the fit was perfect ! Investigating why, I realised that I hadn't bolted the front end of the n/s inner wing to the front flange of the outer wing. So what we did was to lengthen the inner wing by adding a strip of about 3/4", and bolt through that.

     

    The whole thing seems much happier now that the misalignment isn't bowing out the wing. Hard to say why the problem had arisen, maybe at some point that corner had a bit of a bump ?

  4. Thanks again, all.

     

    Are you referring to the 'Original' book, Alan ? Mine's not to hand at present as I've lent it to the guy painting the car, for reference purposes.

     

    So if the car in Bill's book is a late 4A, then that's not inconsistent. I'm doing a colour change from BRG to R/Blue, so the chassis plate's no help, Stuart !

     

    Mine's a very early 4A but I think therefore that I'll just go for blue carpet - anyone's guess, as you say, Alan.

     

    Anthony

  5. Thanks, Stuart and Alan.

     

    Reason I asked is that a brand new set of black carpets came with my project, but maybe I'll put them on eBay and get a set of blue instead; frankly I think they'll look better.

     

    Anyone know what shade of blue would have gone with a Royal Blue car ? As Stuart says, probably few originals left now.

  6. Just a note to say that the switch arrived today and seems fine - has the chrome stalk and the headlight flasher.

     

    This came from Chase MG, but Neil above has a NOS one which may be of better quality than my repro item (not that there seems anything wrong with it).

  7. Many thanks, Bill and Steve.

     

    It looks as though it should do the job, then. I'm trying to avoid the dreaded floor dipswitch so, provided this has a flasher, I can use a Hella changeover relay to make it work as a dipper.

     

    The pic actually shows it as having a chrome stalk but, if not, I can always send it back or use a different stalk as you suggest. The overdrive and indicator switches are chrome stalked, so it has to be made to match somehow or other !

     

    Cheers,

     

    Anthony

  8. I'm looking for a lighting switch for my TR4A, I thought initially that this may do but on second thoughts probably not:

     

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361158800462?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

     

    The problem is that I can't seem to find a 4A switch with a chrome stalk - the 4A switch operates the sidelights and headlights and has a headlamp flasher, but presumably this switch is just a dipswitch and flasher - am I right ?

     

    Thanks

     

    Anthony

  9. Fear not, the slotted bracket on mine is horizontal too, which presumably means it's from a 4A dash after all ?

     

    Spent a few mins this afternoon cutting off the assy. from the old dash and drilling out the spot welds, seems a very simple job to fix it to the new one although, with the latter already fixed in situ, I'll probably bolt it on rather than weld it.

     

    Thanks again, Geko.

  10. That's terrific, Geko - many thanks indeed ! Also has the added bonus of showing where the heater labels go, which I was wondering about.

     

    It looks therefore as though the old dash is a TR4 item, as the bracket layout's different. Seems to be no big deal to make another if they can't be got hold of.

     

    Yes, if that's the case it could well be a TR6 item, Stuart, that would explain it. Thanks.

     

    Anthony

  11. Just been taking off the bits from the old lhd dash, having bought a repro rhd dash from TR GB.

     

    But a bit puzzled about the scuttle vent lever fixing. The old dash* has this just right of centre at the lower edge, but the new one has no bracket for this. Do I have to make up this bracket for this, or is it a different mounting altogether ?

     

    *Should mention that the old dash may be a TR4 part, the car came in bits from a TR restorer who was having to give up, and there were a few incorrect, missing & duplicated bits. The Mossalogue shows the TR4 lever mount clearly on P 102, but the 4A metal dash drawing is handily obscured in this area by the wooden dash.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Anthony

  12. OK OK just because I missed a comma out! I was answering one question and supplying some other information for reference ....sheesh!

    Stuart.

     

     

     

    Ok, gotcha, thanks ! I was just a bit concerned that my Ca import might have a lower axle ratio; this was the case with US E Types, I think

  13. Was there a different ratio for US cars ?

     

    Not normally only TR250 and TR6 for US market got 3.7 instead of 3.45

     

    Nearly all TR4/4As are 3.7.

     

    Thanks, Stuart, but aren't you contradicting yourself here ?

     

    Anthony

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