ijonsson
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Posts posted by ijonsson
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Overdrive repaired by Tom Cox, during our visit to the European TR meeting. Left it on Friday and picked it up next Friday. Both roller bearings were in a bad condition, rest of the OD in good condition. Big thanks to a very service minded Tom Cox. Also got the chance to get a look at a very interesting TR2-3-4 combo build in his dads garage. It had, among other things, a fuel injection kit I got very interested in.
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To sum it up, after after a 450 miles trip during the Swedish TR Club summer meet, the vibration increased, so I got in contact with Pete Cox & Son and got some tips on fault finding. With the car on stands running in gear, with and without OD engaged, listening with a stethoscope. There is no doubt about that the bearings in the OD are gone. There was some fine metal shavings on the OD magnetic plug, and the oil was a bit grey from metal. So box is out, and OD separated. I'll bring it to England and Pete Cox & Son workshop when travelling to the European TR Meeting. They have promised to repair the OD during our stay in England so I can bring it back on our return to Sweden.
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4 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
I would start by examining the prop shaft, check bolts for tightness and the condition of the u/j joints. Next drain the gearbox and O/D oil and check for metal particles, and take the filter out of the O/D and see what has been caught in that. Also, sounds daft, but make sure it is not something simple like the exhaust catching somewhere, or an engine or gearbox mounting failed. If none of this reveals anything you may end up having to take the gearbox out anyway for a strip down.
Ralph
Thank you for the input, the noise has higher frequency than UJ:s or exhaust rattling, it's very noticeable that it almost disappears when engaging theOD, it's the same in 2nd, 3rd, 4th
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A noise and vibration are developing from the gearbox and overdrive, when I engage OD, the noise and vibration almost disappear. It is more noticeable in higher gears. Any idea wherle to start looking, gearbox or od?
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1 hour ago, stuart said:
At what RPM does the missfire occur?
Stuart.
It's noticeable at idle and revving the engine standing still, but really bad while accelerating under real load. MU was overhauled 2 years ago. Injectors some are new, some are overhauled, spray OK, pump pressure is stable (pressure gauge installed). Checked with various timings, a bit better at really retarded timing. Plugs, leads and cap are good, red rotor, DD condenser. The suspect is the springs and weights in the distributor, so we will try to find another distributor just to check.
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Would malfunctioning non return valves in the MU cause an effect similar to misfiring when accelerating? Real suspect is actually the distributor, but still would like to know. I know that faulty NRV can be the reason for cranking a lot at start before injectors are filled up, but not if they have any impact while running at load.
Regards
Inge
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2 hours ago, RobH said:
Not really. Carbon-doped-plastic leads have higher resistance than plain copper ones but that shouldn't bother the coil much.
The spark plug gap will still break down at the same voltage - the extra resistance just slows down the current rise-time a bit.
I wonder how the coils actually failed? Did the windings go open circuit or was is through shorted-turns due to insulation breakdown? If it was shorted turns then heat could certainly be a factor.
They got very hot and sort of gradually lost "power", so I guess it was the insulation going bad. All were 3 ohm coils, some cheap, some a bit more expensive (which sometimes means better quality). And no, current was from ignition, problem came while driving. But fortunatly I haven't had any problems for the last 10000 km of driving.
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After burning a couple of coils, I changed the modern plug leads back to metal core leads and haven't had any problems for some years now. Does this make any sense to you with better electrical knowledge? Or, was the reason to improvement just that I moved the coil away from the engine to the inner wing?
/Inge
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In my case it was the bearing in the rotating disk that was worn. This caused the rotating disk from time to time touch the disk connected to the pointer, and make the pointer "jump"
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Brake problem solved thanks to suggestions here. But, I still had one front wheel not locking up but braking and getting warm. After taking off the drum, I noticed that one or maybe both wheel cylinders weren't fully going back. Thinking the springs weren't strong enough, by chance I found a pair of original springs and noticed that they are stronger than the repro springs. I fitted the old springs, and now everything works OK. Can the reason the wheel cylinders aren't going back so easily on one side, be the consequence of brakes overheating due to the original problem with pressure staying on? Might the seals be damaged?
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Some years ago I fitted an Alu sump to the TR6 I had then, the problem there was that I got a strange knocking sound that was driving me crazy until I found out that it was the crankshaft just hitting the stainless steel splash plate. There also was the problem,as Djaidjai wrote, of not being opening enough for the oil pump.
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22 hours ago, stuart said:
OK, thanks! Now I got it, in my mind it was the rod itself that was adjustable, should have known better. A couple of these I can fix myself, I already made some for the handbrake system, both for the TR2 and other cars. A winter job. FIrst I'll attend the annual Swedish TR club meeting this weekend and within a month the European TR meeting i Båstad, south of Sweden.
/Inge
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I have never seen adjustable pushrods, do they have a longnut in the end or in the shaft? No problem with wire-loom in LH drive cars, fusebox is in the same place as in RH drive cars. And, in my car I have moved the light dip switch to a stalk on the steering column, so none of those wires are on the floor.
/Inge
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On 7/27/2022 at 11:22 AM, Dic Doretti said:
I also had this problem. The car would stop and only way to get it moving was to release the pressure in the hydraulic system. It was cured by slackening off the adjuster as Peter W has suggested.
Cheers
Richard
Yes, I was just about to write a post about that the problem is solved, thanks to Peters advice. When I put in the servo, I also tried to level the pedals with the help of those adjuster screws, so the problem occurred after fitting the servo and that's why I at first blamed the servo.
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On 7/27/2022 at 10:18 AM, ewan2 said:
Has the car got Drum brakes.
I had problems with replacement shoes bedding in.
The linings were too thick and caused the brakes to grab.
Ewan
Yes it's a TR2 and got drums all around, and not new shoes. I've been driving the car for 5 years.
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No, it isn't. Thank you, I realize that the piston seal might be blocking the hole in the sleeve if the piston isn't returning fully. I'll try that first thing tomorrow!
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TR2 has such a simple system and still I can't figure out why pressure builds up until brakes stay on. For the moment I have an emergency solution, as I had an aftermarket brake servo installed, (and did blame it for the pressure build up and removed it) there is a bleed nipple in its place. When I feel the pedal getting lost of play, I just have to bleed the system just a few drops, and I can drive on. I have just 5 year old brake hoses, and just a week ago I replaced all the seals in the master cylinder. I also checked the non return valve in the master cylinder, and it seems to work. What would happen if I took away the valve (as in the picture)?
The master cylinder was sleeved by Past Parts, could something have been "blocked" when doing that?
There has been no problem bleeding the system, I use Easy-bleed to pressurize the system.
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I don't know what machine he used, but a local shoemaker fixed my sidescreens
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Don't forget about the electrics, you would probably like some upgrades in those as well, and the work need to be integrated in the build planning. Else, I myself wouldn't spend to much money on upgrading the engine, overdrive is of more importance to a nice drive. The 2.1 or 2.2 engine does cope well with today's traffic as it is, and the car isn't heavy. Lead free conversion and new rear oil seal is probably a must though.
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23 minutes ago, RobH said:
Although written for American cars, I think this explains the thing well:
https://www.rtsauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Transaxle_oil.pdf
I've never taken one to bits but I guess there is no 'yellow metal' in the TR diff so expect GL5 will be OK? But then again I don't believe there is any history of premature wear in the diff either, so GL4 must be quite adequate for it and probably rather better than the stuff which was used when the cars were new.
Thrust washers in the diff are bronze, but I don't know if bronze classifies as "yellow metal", or if was just brass that didn't agree with GL5
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2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
Went shopping yesterday for Hypoid oil for the rear axle. Extremely confusing as there were what seemed like hundreds of different gearbox and axle oils and I struggled to find any good old EP90. Finally settled on Rock oil EP 80-90 Hypoid Gear Oil.
However on getting it home and reading the extremely small print on the back that required my magnifying glass it says it is GL4 and choosing the correct grade is vital, and that Rock oil make GL1/2/3/4/and 5 and full spec is available on request.
Firstly, do you think this is OK for the TR back axle?
Secondly, you would think if it was that important the info relating to grades would be on the front of the bottle.
Thirdly, all the manufacturers seem to have done away with the flexy pull out spout, so getting it in the gearbox or axle is going to be fun.
Ralph
I bought one of these, £25, ca pump or suck 1,5 litres
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1 hour ago, ntc said:
Your picture clearly shows the pipe horizontal at the bottom end and I question that.so
OK, I get it. In the picture the hose is actually bent 180 deg, the other end not seen is attached to the MU. The hose end seen in the picture was attached to the fuel pipe coming from the tank and the fitting it was pressed on is still at the end of that pipe (not so obvious as it can't be seen in the picture) Funny thing that is so difficult to explain the whole situation when the image is so clear in your own head
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By the way, both sets of MU:s and injectors you refurbished for me still works fine, so clearly you understood years ago what materials to use with ethanol in the fuel.
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1 hour ago, ntc said:
Post a pic of the other end as is.
The hose is sent to Rimmers, the fuel pipe was also bought from Rimmers ready with nut and flared end. It is finished vertical, just as original. New hydraulic hose fitted with the fittings of the original hose, and the car is 80 kms away from me , so sorry, no pics at the moment. I've done same piping on the PI I used to own and 2 other PI cars, and they are working OK, so ....?
/Inge
Remote brake servo
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
this may not apply as it's LHD