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john minchin

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Everything posted by john minchin

  1. Robert, I am a few days ahead of you, I was asking a similar question, please see the thread linked below. John https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/75514-rope-filler-in-b-pillar-to-attach-trim-what-is-it/
  2. When I put one in last I had the person at the back taking the weight of the back end with a rope sling whilst also able to twist the drive flange, the OD adds a considerable weight and you have your hands full dealing with the front. Just after it slots in have a bar ready to slide underneath the tail shaft area to take the weight on the floor whilst you have a breather.
  3. I would lift the engine up a bit. Make sure the clutch drive plate is central. Put the gearbox in gear so an assistant can twist the rear flange on demand. Turn the gearbox anticlockwise to get the clutch lever below the floor until a little further forward. ( I always end up lying underneath it in a health and safety free zone.) Then wrestle, swear, cus and mysteriously bang its in. Good luck, John
  4. When taking my front suspension apart I loaded up with as much heavy stuff as I could find. In the photo under all the stuff is a chassis. Of course scratching the paint was no issue. John
  5. I have tried to go factory original in appearance for a clean look, after all much of the appeal of these cars is the style. Part of my restoration theory is that Triumph made enough holes in the car originally so I should not need any more. The only concession to that is windscreen washers and so tucked the windscreen washer pump/button under the dash. In response to Miles's comments concerning the cooling fan I have the sensor in the down pipe on both my cars and no override switch (similar to production cars of the 1990's ) and never had a problem in 30K miles. I have abandoned th
  6. I think I see where it is touching. It is because the bracket that goes across the car is lower in the middle, a standard one is flat. My suggested hammering would be where the joint is, so no good at all. Judging by the pictures on the Moss website I would be very tempted to do abit of cutting and welding of that large bracket as it is only used to support the gearbox where the round bush sits. i.e. keep it higher over the exhaust. There seems to be fair bit of space under the OD casting. Brian - see your PM. John
  7. Brian, I just recalled on my TR4 the exhaust rattled in the hole where it goes through the chassis. I did an adjustment of the original bracket by cutting and welding to optimise the position of the exhaust. The improvement to the car was immense. I recommend that you take time to 'thread the needle' now whilst it is bits. Sorry no pictures. John
  8. Brian, Like you I use the original style of exhaust mount on my TR3 and TR4 both with A type overdrive, I carefully hammered a dent in the front pipe to ensure clearance to the overdrive but there again it is a different set up. There are different front pipes for overdrive and non overdrive I think. If it is a just touching event then a careful massage with a hammer should do the trick I expect, give it a few mm clearance though. However my experience is A type OD. John
  9. I along with a few others judging by another thread concerning the B pillars are in the process or trimming the car. A common issue is the furflex seals at the front and back of the doors. Please could we have advice and hopefully pictures as to how it fit the furflex. Thanks, John This hopefully is a link to the other thread.
  10. This is where I am. You can see the wood down each side. The wood is approx 10mm wide. I would appreciate any clues as to how and where the furflex attaches as the side arch trim panels cover the wood. I am having to adjust the length of the side rear arch trim panels not because they are made wrong but the car seems different side to side, only by 5mm or so. For 25 years my car had no furflex fitted and I rarely if ever drive it with the hood up so in many ways does it matter if fitted at all ? John
  11. There is a rod which goes between the pedal and the master cylinder, this should have a little looseness to it. If not it pumps more and more fluid into the system to give your issue. It happened when I left it too tight on my clutch and took me a while to sort it out. John
  12. I put in a piece of pallet wood as this seemed top meet the criteria. By the time I had whittled it to fit there was only a sliver left. Thanks for the picture Stuart, that is actually my car judging by the roll over bar holes in the inner wing. John
  13. I am in the process of trimming my TR3a and when I took it apart in a slot just behind the door on one side was a strip of twisted rope type material which seemed to be on the receiving end of a few tacks to hold the seal or trim in that area. The one I am missing I am intending to replace with a bit of old pallet wood. My question is - What should it be ? Thanks in anticipation.
  14. I had a similar rattle, it was that the fan extension on the front of the engine was wobbling about as the massive bolt was loose. Good luck, John.
  15. Some gaskets say TOP on them. Maybe the others do not matter so long as the holes line up. I have never put jointing component on a head gasket and I have never had one blow. My dad always put a smear of grease on, I have continued that practice, but what good it does I have no idea, I suspect none. John
  16. I stripped mine many years ago as the bearings were rusty and pitted. I put new bearings in and adjusted the shimming to fit as you will, I ended up with about 3 I think. Before you do that have a good look at the rocker shaft, the rocker shaft peg and the rocker shaft bush. I changed the bush and reamed it out to size and although the rocker shaft was slightly worn I put it all back together and it is remarkably play free. Definitely do the end float on the bench and the rocket shaft similarly, no steering wheel required. The most difficult bit is getting the steering wheel on at the correct
  17. Stuart, I have been almost fearing that you would spot that detail. It starts and runs, now I am down to the interior which I am not too enthused about. But keen to get it as good as I can, over my lengthened Christmas break I intend to crack on with this aspect having bought a kit from John Skinner. The body is all back together after a partial strip to get the engine in etc and looks great. It is a constant source of surprise that although the car was in regular use before the rebuild how much attention almost every part needs before reassembly. I'm enjoying it which is the main thing
  18. Very interesting thank you, the capping goes up where the webbing is, I assumed mine was adjusted in its past, I will leave that aspect alone. Neat idea with the seat belt webbing though. John
  19. Tony and Ralph, Thank you for your replies. This is like a jigsaw, by gleaning the bits of information you do not have it all slowly starts to fit together. So the fitment / alignment order is door cappings, elbow cappings, rear sides (located at least in part by the same screw as the back of the elbow) and then the long capping across the back which is above the lift the dot pegs. Tony, if you could show on a photo how the webbing is arranged where it attaches to the body that would be most helpful, also any photos from the inside of the car showing where the screws are would also b
  20. I am in the process or rebuilding my TR3a and I have bought a set of coverings for the cockpit cappings. I carefully removed the vinyl coverings which had been stuck on with contact adhesive. Copious amounts of petrol softened up the glue and so now the steel and aluminium cappings are ready to recover and fit. As with everyone who goes through this the aluminium is soft and I am not the first person to have ago at this feature on my car so although the dash one is good the three aluminium ones which go at the back are not quite the same shape and fit as made for Standard Triumph back in
  21. Thanks gents, the 'O' ring idea is excellent I have found a supplier on ebay already. I'm get my vernier on the gauge and order accordingly. Although the glass domes may need a more conventional approach as indicated by Roger.
  22. I am in the process of cleaning up the 2" gauges for my sidescreen car. When I take them apart there appears to be perished rubber seal between the bezel and the glass plus the one which goes between gauge and dash. Also I am missing a couple of domed glasses. I have being on the internet for some time now to no avail. Please could someone identify where I could get these 2 seals for each gauge + a couple of domes. The difficult bit being the glass to bezel seals. Thanks for your help.
  23. Bob, That is great thank you. Basically behind the battery box for the cross car one. It soon turns into a confusing array once the tacho, temp gauge etc get involved. Thanks for the prompt response, no excuses for hanging around now. John
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