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MilesA

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Everything posted by MilesA

  1. Bob If the battery was connected to a conditioner, would that counteract the 'drain'? Miles
  2. Or Asda - it does old school pay as you go, top up, Sim - just have to use once in 180 days to ensure credit does not expire and account remains live.
  3. Yes, there is a high pressure area in front of the screen that can prevent air escaping from the engine bay. However, the TR2 bonnet had 4 rather than 2 vents towards the screen. But louvres do look good Hamish! My memory may be playing tricks, but on MGAs I think there were vents in the front wheel arches to aid air flow from the engine bat area when on the move. Any thoughts? Mick will no do doubt list other venting options on a racing 3A. Miles
  4. Yes John, the version I have has the third connection between the two wires shown in the photo to wire a lamp. Before I installed mine I did some research (because I am not very good with electrickery) which suggested that the two wires were specifically positive and negative. From recollection there was nothing so simply as + or - stamped next to each wire but a letter code. May be relevant if you get one of these. Miles
  5. Thanks Tom - that's better! Got it off eBay some years ago. About £10 from recollection. Miles
  6. +1 Here's mine under the dash, attached to the back of the brake / clutch cylinder inset. Miles
  7. Lovely steering wheel Dan. Did you do the restoration yourself? Miles
  8. Rob. No reason to believe it is not present but as part of my ongoing 3A education, I will check when I am next in the garage. Miles
  9. To my untrained eye that looks like a very good candidate for a sympathetic restoration.
  10. Hi Waldi Thanks for the feedback. This is I think the standard arrangement for the battery earth strap on a 3A. I think there is also a strap between engine and body but better experts than me on a 3A will confirm. Miles
  11. Sue and Roger. Hope you recover soon. Your Register needs you! Following Peter's advice some years ago I take high dose vitamin D and I have a flu jab every winter. I think I benefit from both but alas some infections will get through. Miles
  12. Just to sign off this thread. With the benefit of everyone's input, I decided on a permanent solution rather than constantly detaching (and reattaching) the earth and positive cables from the battery on a regular basis. Identified an existing 1" hole in the bulkhead on the N/S, close to the battery. installed a 12v socket with a cover wired directly to the battery clamps for the the earth and positive cables. Removed the croc clips from my battery conditioner and wired a fused, cigar type adapter to the wires. I already have a battery cut off switch installed, so no risk of power leakage when charging. Job done!
  13. If it ain't broke Deggers...
  14. Use it or lose it Conrad! Miles
  15. And if you have the matching sender for the fuel gauge Conrad, even better! Miles
  16. Thanks for posting the diagram and photo. I have been wondering for some time how the flap worked. Can now think about how to modify my bespoke hood to minimise drips in the cabin in heavy rain. The Forum wins again! Miles
  17. MilesA

    TR2 prize

    I wonder what the original colour scheme was (car not model!). Miles
  18. Jo I agree with Bob but as he has a TR3 and I have a 3A, hopefully a TR4 owner will be able to confirm definitively the position for an early 4. Not sure if it is relevant to the TR4 gauge, but in the side screen cars, a separate earth wire running from an eyelet between the furled knob and gauge bracket aids good gauge performance. Miles
  19. Jo I am sure David will confirm shortly but the fuel gauges in the TR3s used a different mechanism to those in the TR4s. The latter used a heated bimetal strip within the gauge to operate it and requires a voltage stabiliser. In both instances (TR3s and TR4s) the tanker sender must be matched to the type of gauge being used; they are not interchangeable. The early TR3 Jaeger Fuel gauges are pretty rare (but come up on eBay occasionally at a price) but the matching senders are even rarer ('hen's teeth'). There do not appear to be new replacement senders manufactured. The usual suppliers can supply refurbished early fuel gauges and senders but I think only on an exchange basis. My 3A had a later TR4 fuel gauge. Fortunately, I was able to acquire a 3A gauge and a matching sender but over a period of several years. Miles
  20. On balance, I think Chris's solution beats Mr Revington's...just! Miles
  21. So this thread proves my theory that every TR job involves at least 2 others. John, the detachable connectors were thought of as an aid to repeated removal of clamps for battery charging rather than power isolation in an emergency. I do have a detachable key isolator switch of the type Peter has identified, but that is mounted in the engine bay. The key goes with me every time the car is left. The space in the cockpit on the back of the master cylinder box is taken up with the electric fuel pump inertia switch I have installed there on the basis that in the event of an accidental activation, potential danger can be averted by quickly re-engaging the switch which would not be possible if mounted in the engine bay. Still, I can see there might be merit in also moving the isolator switch to a hidden location in the cabin too. And the third job...? Miles
  22. As ever, thanks all for the constructive input. Decisions, decisions! Miles
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